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Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
search the forum that in stock 4.6 block it is not highly recommended because the oil return issue being the path too small.

how about in newer engine block like the pi explorer? is the return path is still too small like earlier 4.6 block to prevent the oil return fast enough to the pan?

thanks.
 

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as far as Ive known the stock pump is plenty capable of supplying plenty of oil pressure. the main issue is the gears. The pump gears fail under high power situations and there are billet gear replacements.
 

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Refrigerator Raider Hater
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The stock pump is fine, and TSS sells billet gears for it if your going to be revving high.
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
is the tss selling the billet gears for stock pump or frpp pump?

what is tss website?

thanks.
 

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they said its for the stock pump, very nice to now this but would it be capible or supporting 500+ hp?
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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3,232 Posts
J.Miller said:
I am not a fan of billet. Didn't JL have one of them things fail on him? Or what that VT? Is there data on the pump gears? :confused:
That was VT's garbage gears that had out of spec tip clearance (shoddy workmanship) and were made from improper material.
The gears that TSS is selling were the direct result of the work that they did when we all saw my gears and several other set of the VT and SHM junk gears failing.
The material was spec'd by a metallurgist specifically for that task it's doing,and the clearances and hardness of the material was determined based on the load that a gearotor oil pump sees.

I've got well over 10K miles of hard use on mine,and oil pressure is solid and stable with no wear on these gears at all. The VT's were junk with less than 10K miles on them.
JL
 

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If you wish to put a high volume pump you will also need the high volume pickup from a Mark VIII. IMHO use a stock pump unless you are running 4V heads.
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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3,232 Posts
J.Miller said:
Better off with stock gears. All you need is 10 PSI for every 1,000 RPM!!! Increased oil pressure will rob HP!! :D
Which is another reason I run a 2V pump in mine now instead of the hi-volume unit.
JL
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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4,794 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
what my plan is to swap over the mark8 oil pan to the explorer engine which also requires the pick up tube to be swap over.

so with my usage probably the stock oil pump is sufficient enough right?

mostly will be street driven with some occasionally drag strip usage and autocrossing.

at what point the billet pump gear is a must?
 

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IMHO use a stock 2V pump and pickup for your combo. I would use the billet gears with a non stock damper, and/or higher than 6000 RPM shifts.
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
is underdrive pulley considered non stock damper right? that's what i'm planning to use.

this means use my stock tbird pickup tube instead of the mark 8 unit and just swap the mark8 oil pan over and i'll be good to go?

thanks.
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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3,232 Posts
Casper said:
is underdrive pulley considered non stock damper right? that's what i'm planning to use.

this means use my stock tbird pickup tube instead of the mark 8 unit and just swap the mark8 oil pan over and i'll be good to go?

thanks.
Yes,and Yes.
JL
 

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Why billet gears for "underdrive pulley considered non-stock damper right"? 6k+ RPM is logical but non-stock dampener? My ASP dampener should fail before the oil pump gears...

Is there some specific information or a specific brand for this statement? :confused: :confused:
 

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Some aftermarket dampers are just lightweight pulleys, they don't even have the damper portion retained. If the damper is tuned for a different combo (or not tuned at all and just guessed at for packaging constraints) then the harmonics on the crank might be higher than stock and that is what is seeming to fracture the stock oil pump gears.

Ford has I believe 4 different damper weights to choose from, the stock Tbird/Cougar 4.6 was the lightest option. The heavier the damper the better the harmonic absorption, but the slower the engine will rev (to a certain degree) The Steeda like I think he said he was going to use is ~5lbs or the same as the lighter Ford unit.
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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nickmckinney said:
Some aftermarket dampers are just lightweight pulleys, they don't even have the damper portion retained. If the damper is tuned for a different combo (or not tuned at all and just guessed at for packaging constraints) then the harmonics on the crank might be higher than stock and that is what is seeming to fracture the stock oil pump gears.

Ford has I believe 4 different damper weights to choose from, the stock Tbird/Cougar 4.6 was the lightest option. The heavier the damper the better the harmonic absorption, but the slower the engine will rev (to a certain degree) The Steeda like I think he said he was going to use is ~5lbs or the same as the lighter Ford unit.
I don't buy that. Al Pappito was saying the same thing,and I personally think it's a bunch of BS. IMO, detonation is the major contributor to the OEM "hamburger metal" oil pump gears failing.
JL
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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3,232 Posts
nickmckinney said:
Could be, I don't have any first hand data myself (knock on wood). Here is a link to a good thread on the subject:

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=475554
I don't waste time reading anything on corral. The minor amout of factual tech on there is far overshadowed by the mass quantities of morons that post there.
JL
 
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