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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After having many issues with the fuel pressure bleeding down because of a failing pump (internal check valve I guess, after sitting at work all day, I would have to 'prime' the system by turning the key on and off 3-4 times). To boot, my gas gauge was going to super full (basically pegging the fuel gauge) when I would corner, hit a bump in the road, etc..

So yesterday, I finally go around to installing my new Delphi fuel pump/hanger assembly from Rock Auto. I had high hopes it would solve all of my issues, but, the gauge issue remains. Is seems kinda stable at lower fuel levels, but when I filled it up after changing the sender/pump assy, it pegged the gauge. After driving home (about two miles), the gauge goes all over the place when braking, accelerating and cornering. It will swing between around 3/4 full to super mega full...

I have not checked the anti-slosh module yet, but do have the one from my SC cluster (95) that I can try.

Anyone want to tackle this one? I have searched for similar issues, and find plenty, but none with a real solution..

Thanks all!
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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I bet money it’s the slosh module. Due to it also doubling as a gauge monitor (for the check gauges light) it may be causing erratic readings from a failing or drifting component, I had this happen with the temp gauge of all things, it would randomly peg hot or read very high as the signal portion of the circuit apparently was getting an additional signal coming from the slosh module
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I bet money it’s the slosh module. Due to it also doubling as a gauge monitor (for the check gauges light) it may be causing erratic readings from a failing or drifting component, I had this happen with the temp gauge of all things, it would randomly peg hot or read very high as the signal portion of the circuit apparently was getting an additional signal coming from the slosh module
Is the slosh module basically an instrument cluster voltage regulator? Does it affect more than just the fuel gauge?
 

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There's also a physical adjustment of the fuel gauge that sets the hi/lo extents; it slides up and down the arms it's mounted on; I had to drop the tbird's to fix a hanging float issue.
 

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Is the slosh module basically an instrument cluster voltage regulator? Does it affect more than just the fuel gauge?
No it doesn't regulate voltage, it monitors the signal circuits going to each gauge and triggers the check gauges light if their sensor's input is over a certain threshold. When the slosh module goes bad it will bleed voltage back into the gauges through the signal paths, causing spikes and erratic readings.

There's also a physical adjustment of the fuel gauge that sets the hi/lo extents; it slides up and down the arms it's mounted on; I had to drop the tbird's to fix a hanging float issue.

huh? There's most certainly nothing adjustable on the gauge and I don't recall anything like that the sender ( have one i intend to check though)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No it doesn't regulate voltage, it monitors the signal circuits going to each gauge and triggers the check gauges light if their sensor's input is over a certain threshold. When the slosh module goes bad it will bleed voltage back into the gauges through the signal paths, causing spikes and erratic readings.




huh? There's most certainly nothing adjustable on the gauge and I don't recall anything like that the sender ( have one i intend to check though)
Has anyone ever had one fixed (slosh module)? I looked at the one in my spare cluster tonight and on the back, I see what looks like alot of cold solder joints/cracked solder.. I am going to try to refresh the solder and touch up everything and see what happens. I have an 94 Ranger that had cruise control issues. It was sporadically working, then not (more not), I looked up the issues online and someone mentioned the cruise control amplifier and how it was most likely broken solder joints. I found it, removed it, resoldered the whole board and put it back in and what do you know, worked like a champ.

Thoughts?
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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Has anyone ever had one fixed (slosh module)? I looked at the one in my spare cluster tonight and on the back, I see what looks like alot of cold solder joints/cracked solder.. I am going to try to refresh the solder and touch up everything and see what happens. I have an 94 Ranger that had cruise control issues. It was sporadically working, then not (more not), I looked up the issues online and someone mentioned the cruise control amplifier and how it was most likely broken solder joints. I found it, removed it, resoldered the whole board and put it back in and what do you know, worked like a champ.

Thoughts?
Never tried it but definitely thought about it, it has a few smd components so I don’t dare get near those with my smallest 25w iron. I’m not sure exactly what goes bad on these circuits, component drift, failing ICs, cold solder joints, could be anything so might be worth ruling out if you can pull it off.

I’d like to build or strip it down to a really basic circuit that only serves as the anti-slosh feature for the fuel gauge. The check gauges monitor is a really useless feature IMO I don’t know why Ford thought to keep that but not the upshift light
 

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I don't mean to derail the thread but my temperature gauge is still reading low after I replaced the thermostat with a 180. My oil pressure gauge is also all over the place. Could it be the slosh module here as well? My fuel gauge moves around a lot too but it never pegs high. It can move from less than half to 3/4 of a tank in a trip. I can average it in my head and get a good idea where the level of gas is.
 

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Might be because it's a 180. Unless you have the fans coming on sooner, a 180 does nothing, other than prevent the car from warming up properly on short trips. Not great for the car. Get a Motorcraft 192 deg, Ford used them in millions of 4.6's.

Al
 
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Oil pressure gauge moving around is a good indicator of something electronically wrong, as the sender is just a simple on/off switch and should not move around at all unless there is a voltage fluctuation. It’s not necessarily the slosh module though, I would check your engine block grounds first and foremost
 

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Might be because it's a 180. Unless you have the fans coming on sooner, a 180 does nothing, other than prevent the car from warming up properly on short trips. Not great for the car. Get a Motorcraft 192 deg, Ford used them in millions of 4.6's.

Al
The car warms up just as well with a 180 degree thermostat as it does with the stock 196; the PCM enters closed loop well before the coolant reaches 180 so you're not harming anything. A 160, on the other hand... :)

You are right, however, that having a 180 by itself does little to cool the car without a reflash for fan settings. It may keep the car cooler while cruising in mild/cool/cold weather, but that's about the limit of its effectiveness.
 

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A cooler T-stat does also help in drag racing, as long as the car doesn't idle long before making a run. You have to push it up in the lanes. I used to use 160's for that.

Al
 

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I spent the majority of my life repairing electronics, and I would say, based on 30+ years of experience, that bad solder joints are the cause of 99% of the failures I've fixed.
Blown finals in both cb's and car stereo's are usually shorted antennas and speakers,and that's the common problem there.
These slosh modules are signal conditioning circuits; they smooth the voltage, and integrate the signal across a capacitor.
When those circuits fail it's usually the capacitors; the larger it is, the more likely it's gone bad.
The problems we are havng with eec's and the slosh module are very likely to be the solder wave machine at the vendor who supplied the parts was a few degrees colder than it should have been, or the preheater for the pcbs wasn't hot enough.
resoldering every component on the board usually works; just don't create more problems with too big of a soldering iron.
If someone would post detailed pix, I'd be happy to help diagnose and fix the board.

The 180 thermostat is useless unless you adjust where the fan kicks in in the tune.
Lazarus has a 180 tstat, and I dropped the fan values by 10 degrees.
It made cylinder #8 quit detonating, but the crack pipe cooling mod did more to help that.
Otherwise, I didn't notice a difference at all.
 

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That board is a poster child for bad solder joints. Using a ~30w iron and kester 44 solder will likely fix that right up.
When you hit a solder joint and it bubbles; that's all the crap being eaten by the flux.
 

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Look at the solder where the thru hole components come thru the board;the little circles around the wire is an indicator for a bad joint. I've seen the wire completely detached, sitting inside a moat of solder that doesn't touch the board.

The solder joint in the upper right corner is a good example.
 
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Look at the solder where the thru hole components come thru the board;the little circles around the wire is an indicator for a bad joint. I've seen the wire completely detached, sitting inside a moat of solder that doesn't touch the board.
Thanks for the explanation. Yes, that would definitely be an issue. I just can't see what you're describing in these photos...I probably need new eyeballs to see such detail, since allergies have been messing with my vision since last week.
 
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