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You see it a lot with power components; the thermal expansion of the copper leats cause it, this is just cold solder.
 
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The dark circle is the reflection of the solder meniscus; the fine whitish granular ring just outside that is the bad part if the solder joint.
When you hit it with an iron, it will bubble like crazy.
 
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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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FWIW, the only problem this particular slosh module had was the erratic temp readings it would cause. I don't doubt bad solder joints could be at play but it seems more like a short or signal bleed or even a bad diode rather than an open circuit
 

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It's not necessairily open; it's a metal oxide layer that acts as an insulator sometimes. They tend to act like a humidity-based resistor most of the time.
A quick way to check things is to take a sharp probe, amd push it into the ring I was talking about; it will push the solder together, making it work for a while.
In the case of this board, I'd paint it with flux, and go over it with a hot air gun to melt All the solder.
 

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OK, it looks like this is all just simple filters and voltage limiter circuits.
The 2902 is a quad opamp;it has some features that make it better for car use.

The outputs are the corner pins, with feedback beside it, and the + input nearer the middle.
The yellow parts are capacitors; they are read as digit1,d2,number of zeros, in picofarads. :)
The ones that read 103 are .001uF capacitors The bottom right component is probably a resistor, but 9508 is not a good value for resistors or caps, lol.
The grey resistor, blue cap, and the zy30 diode are the power supply circuit filter.
Do you know which pin the temp sender goes to?
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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OK good, I'm not [completely] nuts, I was looking at the photo (before I scrolled down, lol) going "bad joint, bad joint, bad joint)... It's way easier to see from the back but there are at least half a dozen questionable joints I could quickly ID on the top too.

So glad I bought a variable temperature soldering station a few years ago. :)

I never got the finesse of using a heat gun to reflow PCBs en masse. I always either don't get it hot enough to do anything, or overheat it and warp/kill the board....
 

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Yeah, a lot of stuff died on the way to me learning to do that, lol. It wasn't my stuff, and if I couldn't fix it it was trash anyway. :)
Think about that, next time you start to drop your car off for repair.
 

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I'm sad to say, I can't do 0201's anymore, lost the really fine control you need. :(
 

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Most of the time when the gas gauge goes passed full with less than a full tank or intermittently goes passed full, is an open circuit in the sending unit. Normally needs a new sending unit.
 

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After having many issues with the fuel pressure bleeding down because of a failing pump (internal check valve I guess, after sitting at work all day, I would have to 'prime' the system by turning the key on and off 3-4 times). To boot, my gas gauge was going to super full (basically pegging the fuel gauge) when I would corner, hit a bump in the road, etc..

So yesterday, I finally go around to installing my new Delphi fuel pump/hanger assembly from Rock Auto. I had high hopes it would solve all of my issues, but, the gauge issue remains. Is seems kinda stable at lower fuel levels, but when I filled it up after changing the sender/pump assy, it pegged the gauge. After driving home (about two miles), the gauge goes all over the place when braking, accelerating and cornering. It will swing between around 3/4 full to super mega full...

I have not checked the anti-slosh module yet, but do have the one from my SC cluster (95) that I can try.

Anyone want to tackle this one? I have searched for similar issues, and find plenty, but none with a real solution..

Thanks all!
The aftermarket float level sending units are garbage. Keep the ford
After having many issues with the fuel pressure bleeding down because of a failing pump (internal check valve I guess, after sitting at work all day, I would have to 'prime' the system by turning the key on and off 3-4 times). To boot, my gas gauge was going to super full (basically pegging the fuel gauge) when I would corner, hit a bump in the road, etc..

So yesterday, I finally go around to installing my new Delphi fuel pump/hanger assembly from Rock Auto. I had high hopes it would solve all of my issues, but, the gauge issue remains. Is seems kinda stable at lower fuel levels, but when I filled it up after changing the sender/pump assy, it pegged the gauge. After driving home (about two miles), the gauge goes all over the place when braking, accelerating and cornering. It will swing between around 3/4 full to super mega full...

I have not checked the anti-slosh module yet, but do have the one from my SC cluster (95) that I can try.

Anyone want to tackle this one? I have searched for similar issues, and find plenty, but none with a real solution..

Thanks all!
hello, the aftermarket fuel pumps with the float level are garbage. It’s always best to use the old in tank fuel float system and install the pump of your choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
The aftermarket float level sending units are garbage. Keep the ford

hello, the aftermarket fuel pumps with the float level are garbage. It’s always best to use the old in tank fuel float system and install the pump of your choice.
Well, I finally got to look at this. I swapped out the anti-slosh module in the cluster with the one from my parts 95 SC and it fixed the issue with the gauge wandering all over the place all of the time, but, the level was not correct and went down way to quickly.

So yesterday, I was in the driveway with the car running trying to get this aftermarket TMPS sensor system working and all of a sudden, the car just quit. I attempted to restart the engine, but it would start then quit. This happened over and over until finally it started and ran. I should mention that when I would try to start it after it quit, I could hear the fuel pump relay click, but primer from the pump was not happening.

So after it finally started and ran, I drove it around for a few minutes to test the new TPMS setup, and all of a sudden, it quit again. Same as before, could hear the fuel pump relay click, but the pump would not spin. This was all with the brand new Delphi pump/hanger assembly from RA. So, I went and got the pump, by itself, from my SC (worked when parked, made by Airtex). I removed the pump from that hanger and installed it (the airtex) in my factory Ford hanger (had bad pump). I put it together, took out the back seat and used by new access panel and swapped out the failing (in every way now) Delphi pump/hanger assembly for the factory Ford hanger with Airtex pump. I primed the pump and it fired right up. Also, the gauge now seems to read properly, but time and driving will be the real test for the gauge.

Thank you all for your help. I am getting a replacement pump / hanger assembly from RA. I wanted to just get my money back, but since I had installed it already, I guess, they will only swap it with a new one. I guess I will just have a spare sitting around..

Is Airtex a good pump?
 
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