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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Afternoon folks.

Been chasing a little fuel indication problem on my 95. Seems to under read.

Basiclly when filling to full, the needle stops at F and goes no further. After a short drive the needle sits just below F (more than a needle width). The CHECK GUAGES light comes on when the needle hits E. Operators manual says light should come on at approx 1/8 of a tank. Thankfully there's always 10 to 12 L (3.5 Gal) left.

Hasn't been a huge problem, it's nice to have that cushion. Still planning on digging into it at some point before it gets worse and do some research first. Used TCCoA search with some results but nothing definitive. To further add, I do have the required factory shop, wiring and diagnostic manuals (no parts), and am very competent with a DMM. Have read through the diagnostic routines but would like to know if anyone else has had a similar problem or is aware of known issues before I start pulling apart buried connectors and harnesses. I'm not a fan of just throwing parts a the problem.

I've kept the trouble shooting simple so far.
- Ignition off, doors closed while filling.
- Tried different fuel.
- Pulled out instrument cluster (not so simple). Though all were making solid contact I cleaned all connectors and recepticals (including the Anti-slosh module) with a good quality eraser. Have'nt done a fill up yet but will report back results.

Lastly does anyone have the PART # for the Anti-slosh module. Had no luck on the net. And has anyone tried Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner? Apparently it also cleans deposits from the fuel sender.

Bit of a long posting I know, but thanks in advance for your patience!
Chris.................
 

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I'd suspect the sender followed by the gage. There's a way to use a resistor to check the full and empty positions on the gage....I'll have to write that one up for ya.

Joe

Ok here it is...on the fuel pump/sender connector, there should be a yellow/white wire in the connector. This feeds the fuel gage amplifier. You will need a 145 ohm resistor or resistors equaling to 145 (like this -----92ohm----53ohm--------). With the switch off, connect a wire to the negative post on the battery. This wire is tempoary. Connect the other end to the 145 ohm resistor or resistors . Disconnect the fuel pump/sender and connector and insert the other end of the resistor into the space with the yellow/white wire. Turn ignition on but don't try to start car (it won't start anyway). Fuel gage should be on the Full mark. If it isn't, then you can remove the needle and "recalibrate it". If if is on the mark, check your grounds then replace the sender. Verifiy all wire colors and functions before attempting this procedure.
 

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Hey Chris has the guage been replaced before? Mine had been replaced and wasn't completely full when they put the needle back on. So it would be like PEGGED over full for about 150 miles and then start dropping. It would be close to empty but the guage would show about 1/4 tank. The check gauge light still worked. All I did was pull the cover off the cluster drove down to the gas station filled her all the way up. Popped the needed off and let the gauge adjusting for about 30 sec. Then set the needle slightly above full like they do stock and put it all back together. Fixed.
 

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I don't think you have a problem with your sender, a bad sender don't read at all, or moves wildly around. If you really want to, you can fill it up and pull the needle off, stick it back on where you want it.

I don't know of any anti-slosh module besides the resistor that keeps the gauge from jumping around while you drive up and down hills. There is a pickup bucket in the tank so fuel doesn't "slosh" and leave the pickup dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
T/S noted and appreciated!!

FunktasticLucky, rayner601 & GreenBird

Thanks for your input Guys! Intersting you all mention reseating the needle as it was something I was considering. It's reassuring to know that this is in fact possible. The needle "pops off" that easily? Seems delicate. Any cautions I should be aware of?

To answer FunktasticLucky:
- The guage appears original, bayonet tabs not bent from pliers as noticed on other dash clusters I've looked at.

Joe (rayner601)
I like your use of resistors, very clever! Found the circuit and wire code in the EVTM. Guessing 145ohm---92ohm----53ohm equates to Full-1/2-Empty. Shop manual refers to dialing in ohms using test equipment, your method is far le$$ expensive.

I'll update with results of cleaning the slosh module connectors. I've still not done a fill up.

Thanks again for your practical, common sense advice.
Chris..................
 

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The resistors I mentioned 145, 92 and 53 ohm are not what you exactly need. 145 ohms indicates full. the other 2 values are if added together 145. I just put that in there if you couldn't find a 145ohm resistor and needed to put 2 together to get 145. The Empty mark is 22 ohms. Ford doesn't have a midway point but by just guessing it is going to be about 59-63ohms for 1/2 tank. This trick also works on the temp gage, but it's a different resistor 9.7 cold and 70something hot.

Oh, I forgot. SM says that the fuel gage and amplifier are calibrated together and if you replace one, you need to replace the other. They both come together from Ford. The sender is not calibrated to either one
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You're a man of few words GreenBird, thanks again.

Thank you for the clarification Joe. Re-read the SM and found values:
-------22 Ohms for E
-------33 Ohms for Check Gauge light on at 1/8 full
----- 145 Ohms for F
---14-18 Ohms for Empty stop
155-165 Ohms for Full stop

Later gents.....................:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update.........Guage reads better.

For those who are interested. I filled her right up the other day and have done about 50 KM of city driving. This is what I've noted so far:

-On a full tank the needle went about a needle width past the white band above F. (Never did this since I've owned the car, I'm 2nd owner. Needle would settle into the edge of the band and no further.)
-After 50 KM of city driving the needle now sits just off the left edge of the band above F. (Prior to cleaning Anti-slosh module contacts, after driving only 20-25Km after fill up, the needle would sit 1/8 left of F. [7/8 full] )

A marked differance so far from a guage that had been under reading. Gonna run the level down to E over the week to see if CHECK GAUGES light comes on at 1/8 before E. Used to trip on only after settling on the edge of the red band.

Later............
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Results are................

Well I filled up today after the CHECK GAUGES light came on. Needle was on left edge of the red E band (little less than 1/8). Needle went just beyond F band as before. Even at E I still had 14 Litres left which is still a nice cushion!

So it would seem at this point that cleaning the Slosh Module connectors for an under reading fuel gauge is a solution to be considered.

Hope this information helps you folks in the future.

Regards
Chris......................
 
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