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Discussion Starter #1
I have a dyno tune in 2 weeks and I am going to be swapping in 24# injectors right before the tune. But I have a few questions.

I have never looked at my engine with the intent of swapping these out so that being said.

IS there anything I need to know before I swap these out?

Also, if I put them on the day of the tune before I leave my house, will I be okay for the 2 hour drive to CT while running rich? If not, can I adjust the fuel pressure on the regulator to help me out for the drive?

Also approx how long would it take to swap these out?

Thanks Guys

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Heres the reply I got via PM from Lonnie: Thanks Alot!


The easiest way to do it is on the rail where the Schrader valve is, you release your pressure there. Then there's 4 bolts that hold the fuel rail down. That's the only thing that holds the injectors in. When you pull up on the rail some of the injectors will stay in the intake and some will stay in the rail. The thing to remember is you have to count each and every oring and injector cap to make sure you have them all. The cap is the little orange thing on the bottom of each injector, the bottom oring is above it. A lot of times that cap will be cracked or only half of it will come out. You need to get it all out of the injector bore or you will have a leak. Sometimes it falls into the intake. Nothing you can do about it and it will burn up once it gets heated and compressed. Before pulling any of the injectors it's a good idea to either hose of the engine of sand and dirt or hp air to keep the dirt out of the engine and messing up the rings.

As for the connectors, they are the hardest part. I have a special tool that I use. It's a U shaped pick or even a L shaped scribe would work. The connector has 2 clips, one on each side that needs to be pulled just slightly to release it. Sometimes you can work them back and forth and they just pop off.

When putting them back on you want to put them all in the intake and in the right position. Then place the rail on top of them lining them all up before you use any force. They will all pop in at the same time if done right for each side. This is why you need the grease to lube up the orings. Then just run the 4 bolts back in and your done. Start it up and look for any leaks.

Hope that helps.
 

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that should be added into the tech articels, it will help me out when i throw my 30's in
 

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Don't forget, you need to correct for the different size injectors by changing the values in the EEC for fuel injector size (fuel injector slope). Otherwise, with the same slope, you will have the injectors on the same amount of time but, more fuel will flow because of increase fuel flow due to higher flowing injectors.

Your car will run rich until you get to the tune. I don't know how much because I'm too lazy to do the math right now. If you looked into it, you would know. Swap them in and verify there are no fuel leaks the night or two before the tune.
 

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I said the night or two before, so you will be ready to drive straight to the dyno, not around town. If you drove around town you would be running way too rich.

Do one of two things, swap the injectors at home, drive straight to dyno, swap in plugs at dyno.

Or

Drive to dyno early, swap injectors, swap plugs, dyno to get a good response.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Dustin said:
I said the night or two before, so you will be ready to drive straight to the dyno, not around town. If you drove around town you would be running way too rich.
o one of two things, swap the injectors at home, drive straight to dyno, swap in plugs at dyno.
Or
Drive to dyno early, swap injectors, swap plugs, dyno to get a good response.
Yeah the dyno place is about 2 hours from the house. I am going to go early and swap them there.

Thanks

Dave
 
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