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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, figured I would post this here since things are so narrowed down.

My fuel pump relay has been swapped (it was too cheap to bother testing)
My inertia switch had been reset (clicked the button on the top, same one that floats up when impact occurs)
The pump does not make any sound. All I hear is one click when the key turns

Is the relay what is clicking? Should I just get under it and change the pump?

The car is the 86 3.8 in my sig.
 

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I'd say you're on the right track with that logic, but be sure you've got spark before potentially replacing good parts.
 

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I would get the multimeter out and make sure you have power getting back there. Use a fuel pressure gauge to test the pressure at the fuel rail.
 

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If you're cracking it open, one choice would be to replace just the pump if the sending unit is fine.

I found this on fleabay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/E2065-FUEL-PUMP-1986-1987-1988-FORD-Thunderbird-E2044_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem56398f07c4QQitemZ370332862404QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

In other news, since my sending unit is bad but my pump works, I'm just getting the whole sending unit / pump assembly new from the local AutoZone ($101.99 for an Airtek) and doing the swap when I get around to doing the exhaust system.

YMMV on both, though.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #5
alright, well ill check and make sure, but power is flowing if its making the relay click, right?

I grabbed a pump today since transportation is limited and i asked if i could return it if I didnt need it, so we will see. All I grabbed was a pump/strainer..

The car died while driving, about 1/10th of mile out of the driveway, suddenly. No history of surging or running rough FYI.
 

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No - the relay supplies power to the pump. However, something could be bad between the relay and the pump.

Be like "But the light must be getting power if the switch is on!" which ignores that yes, pumps (and lights!) can burn out.

/me has been through eight (!!) fuel pumps in his 2000 Malibu before it finally sunk in that electric pumps in gas tanks don't like running less than 1/4 full ...

RwP
 

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The Band, not the Disease!
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Gas helps cool the pump. I would bust out a multimeter or test light to see if you have power getting to the fuel pump. If no power: Trace it all the way forward untill you have power!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I am going back to Autozone, turning back in the pump/strainer for an assembly, and grabbing a multimeter. I have about 4 hours to dedicate to working on the car, ill post back either later today or tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Well... here is the culprit. The sending unit decided it was time to rust apart. Good thing nobody carries them. CarQuest was closed today... They have a warehouse in town, ive grabbed some obscure things from them before, lets hope for the best!

By chance, do the fox mustangs use the same sending unit? I know the Mark VII/Continental 5.0's do..

Thanks for all the help guys, I knew this was a good forum to call home..

 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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Don't buy an autozone pump get a walbro or even OEM. My auto zone pump didn't even work right out of the box what a POS. Plus their airtex strainer never fit right, both parts suck fat Kock.

I'm surprised this isn't talked about more.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I had a Airtex pump/strainer, and the strainer did NOT fit quite right. Total lack of quality. My GF's dad fixes fleet trucks and heavy equipment for a construction company, so he is ordering me the whole assembly. I assume it is going to be OEM. The price is right (freeee)

*EDIT*
The car is fixed. Thanks for all the help.
 
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