Fuel pump won't kick on when I try to start my car

I would suggest you list what all you already tried, so that people know where you are in the diagnostics process.

Such as fuses, inertia switch, wiring, relay (does it click?), any other malfunctions, etc.

The car ran fine until my battery went bad and I messed with the body ground weather connector portion of my ground cable. I have a new one I haven't put on. All my fuses are good when I turn the key to start my engine fan kicks on and won't kick off even when the key is off. One of the previous owners rewired the engine fan to the abs module fuse slot in the high current fuse panel. The car ran perfect I have changed the ignition lock cylinder because the car didn't like to give my key back as well as it wouldn't ding all the time when the key was in the ignition.

The fan running with ignition on is a possible sign that the ECM has gone bad. That is of course not taking into consideration the wiring being messed with.

You mentioned two wiring components that were "messed with". I would put those back for starters. Body grounds are important.

The fan being on all the time may be what killed the battery.

Al

Hiramking47 94 tb lx 4.6 said:

One of the previous owners rewired the engine fan to the abs module fuse slot in the high current fuse panel.

Click to expand...

Uh. That is not ideal. Why did he do this?

First, how do you know it is the fuel pump? What have you tested to determine this?

Second, check the inertia switch in the trunk. Those can be tripped very easily. It once tripped on one of our Taurus wagons when a shopping cart rolled into the right rear corner panel.

It seems you have a lot more problems than just no fuel pump. If you are familiar with 12VDC wiring systems, get a FSM and EVTM and start correcting all of the previous owner's shenanigans. If you aren't familiar with automotive electrical systems, find someone who is and let them assist.

I haven't really tested anything I know what the fuel pump sounds like it's one of my favorite sounds the car makes. I haven't used an independent power source to test the fuel pump or used a test light or ohm meter. I've been working and taking it slow my friend I asked to help me fix the problem just wants to buy the car and that kinda rubbed me the wrong way it's also my first car I will let it rust to the ground before that so in turn I'm on my own I don't trust anyone to work on it. The slot in the high current fuse panel for the engine fan is melted why the previous owner choose to wire it to the abs module slot I don't know. Now I believe it's wired to the abs module because when I pull the fuse for the abs module the engine fan stops running. I'm trying to get as much feedback from you enthusiasts and pros. So far it is helping more than who I reached out too. Thanks too everyone.

I have checked my inertia switch it's not tripped.

I did leave the battery hooked up when I changed the ignition lock cylinder. I thought the battery being dead wouldn't matter. I'm just wondering if I didn't fry the ecm because the engine fan ran fine like it's supposed too.

That won't fry anything. Start by doing what was suggested above, fix the fusebox; there may be other problems. Does the check engine light come on when you turn the key on? does it flash as it cranks over?
Check all the fuses.

You need to do some testing and diagnosis

Thank you to everyone on this forum for all the articles and posts I read a post on here about someone doing away with their coil packs it mentioned resistance and it got me thinking so I replaced the battery ground cable it fired up like it always does however I got home and my radiator top hose the larger gauged hose where it connects to the radiator blew off so I'm going to say I need a new radiator.