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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Door locks not working

My electric seats and door locks in my 94 bird aren't working.I checked the metal fuses in the fuse block and both the door lock/elec. seat and the power window fuses are getting really hot, but no blowing. I tried replacing both fuses, but they just heat up as well. Any idea as to what the problem would be?
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Door Locks not working

I can hear the door lock actuator (I think thats what it is) around the trunk area clicking when I press the lock/unlock button. The gas door release and the trunk release aren't working either......... I have looked for bare wires or wires rubbing up against each other/touching metal and can't find anything.
 

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hot fuses

Are the clips that hold the fuses good and snug. In other words, is there some resistance when installing and removing the fuses. The strip inside of the fuse is made to melt when an overload condition occurs. If the retaining device that holds the fuse becomes weak or loose, it will allow the fuse to arc or in a sense (sort of weld) itself between the contact points. This welding action will heat up the fuse and the holder. If there has been a significant overload condition in the past, it could have heated up the holder to the point where the metal properties have been changed and it will allow this to happen no matter how many times you change the fuse. Two things to do real quick: #1 check for resistance when removing and installing the fuse. If you aren't sure if it is correct, pull another fuse from somewhere else in the fusebox and compare. #2 Look at the fuse. Is there discoloring on the blade where you insert it or on the ends of a tube type fuse. This will probably only show up in an extreme case, but if you see it you know for sure you have a problem. The only fix is to replace the fuseholder. I don't know your particular fusebox, but it can be either a new holder for that particular item, or you may need a whole new fusebox. I am an industrial electrician and this is something I see regularly. Industrial style fuseholders are made to be replaced for this very reason and there are even special springs available to make them stronger. If all that looks good, keep checking till you find the real electrical problem. I can give you some tips on that if you need more help.

Mitch
 

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After thinking about what I posted, let me clear up just a couple of things. First, if you do have a problem with the fuse being loose in the holder, you really need to look close to see if there is any other damage to the surrounding area. The heat if it got hot enough, could have caused other problems as well. Some things to look for is melted plastic on the fusebox itself, you may want to pop the fuse box loose and look for melted insulation underneath. You got the idea, just be suspicious of anything that doesn't look perfect. As far as the one fuse that is hot, It could be a slight overload depending on how hot it is. You should check that circuit from the fusebox to the other end. First give it a quick once over and note anything that doesn't look perfect as the factory would have sent it out. You could have insulation melted in the harness almost anywhere and this is only one of the possible problems of many. One way to eliminate things like the power seats is to disconnect them at the bottom of the seat. If the problem is at the device, unplugging it will remove the overload condition and the fuses should be cool after that. Remember that it may take quite a while for things to cool down though. If you should determine that it is just one particular fuse holder that is bad, look for an extra unused tap on your fusebox. If need be, you may have to install an inline fuse holder and bypass the bad section of the fusebox. Some folks are ok with this method, and others will choose to get another fusebox. Which ever method you choose, please insure you wire it correctly. Meaning, don't use smaller wire than needed, don't just twist the ends together and wrap some cheap electrical tape around the joint. A good connection needs to be soldered and should have heat shrink tubing as a cover. THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS TO HAVE A QUALIFIED PERSON DO IT. If you are great! If you are not 100 % sure you will do the job right...TAKE IT TO A QUALIFIED PESON! Sorry to be so bold, but you a risking a fire and possibly your life and someone elses. Even as much as a stereo amp installed incorrectly can cause damage that will haunt you for a long time before it shows itself. Always use correct wiring technique and be safe. ALWAYS use a fuse near the source of power not the other end. If not you are creating a fuse to melt and possibly ignite anything it is touching or near. Good luck and happy hunting for those electrical gremlins.

Mitch
 

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My electric seats and door locks in my 94 bird aren't working.I checked the metal fuses in the fuse block and both the door lock/elec. seat and the power window fuses are getting really hot, but no blowing. I tried replacing both fuses, but they just heat up as well. Any idea as to what the problem would be?
Odds are, the grease in the assemblies is old, and needs to be replaced; I had to do the door locks on one of my cars a couple of years ago.

Take the panel off, and see if the actuator arm moves freely, or if it feels glued together.

If it moves easily, try the switch while moving the lever; watch sharp edges, it's supposed to move fast, lol.

If the fuse is getting hot, and the actuator isn't even trying to move, it's a wiring problem for sure.

Search for "wiring shorts", Shorts, opens, melted, or other similar terms; there are two known problem areas:

The +power shorts near the firewall connector under the hood, and the grounds short under the drivers' seat, near the seatbelt.

Both are a PITA to deal with; I'd try everything else first.

Good luck!
 

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Those metal cans are self resetting circut breakers, not fuses. If they are getting hot then you deffanatly have ether shorted wireging or a bad switch loading the system down. Locks, seats and mirrors should be on the same circuit. the wire is black with a white stripe if I remember. Power windows are on a diffrent switched circuit. I believe that is running a yellow wire.

Try unpluging the wires for your power seats first. There should be a plug with 2 thick wires under the seat. Then start unpluging switches to see if any are stuck on. Also if you have factory keyless entry check for damaged wireing in the trunk. The controler is on the drivers side under the package tray.

Also until you can find the short, PULL the hot breakers until you find the short, as they will drain your battery at best, and worst case you may come out to a smoldering shell if that wiring lights up. Nether of those circuits have anything on them that is required to drive the car, just comfort items.
 

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Second that smoldering shell comment! May want to be on the cautious side and park it at the curb till you figure it out. A guy I work with almost lost his house last winter when his next door neighbors house went up in flames because of a problem with thier vehicle started a fire in the garage. Good luck and happy hunting!
 
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