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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so this weekend is half price weekend at u pull it they jus got a 97 windstar can with the 3.8 split port I read the rwd and fwd heads have a difference in mounting one has a hole the other doesn't could I nab these heads and make them work on my 94 tbird with the 3.8 or no I would get the set for $30 bucks is why I'm asking
 

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I've never heard about a difference in the heads from fwd to rwd, just differences in the block. You would need to get the whole top end, and would need to upgrade your injectors and get a tune, but yes you can make them work on your tbird bottom end.
 

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the only differences between FWD and RWD engines is the blocks. the heads are the same.
 

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the only differences between FWD and RWD engines is the blocks. the heads are the same.
The intakes and accessory brackets vary by year and model, though. Windstar, F-150, and Mustang all had different upper intakes. Early and late Windstar are also different.
 

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If you do go through with a swap, consider at least checking your bearing tolerances on your target block before reasssembly. I put 148 hours into my whole splitport swap and while my engine seemed OK before the mods (~70K mi of normal daily driving after a rebuild and two16 hour endurance races and two track days), you will want to wind up the engine to 5K or so to feel the splitport difference and that block simply didn't enjoy that. The bottom end blew up at the track after a mere 19 laps.

Even after finishing up the mustang splitport work, the windstar upgrade wasn't trivial to make work. I'd hate to see you put all that effort to have it blow up at an inopportune time.

If i was to go down the splitport path again, I would have pulled the engine entirely and rebuilt it before going racing.... like what I'm doing with the V8.
-g
 

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The intakes and accessory brackets vary by year and model, though. Windstar, F-150, and Mustang all had different upper intakes. Early and late Windstar are also different.
given the amount of information in this section, i figured it wasnt necessary to point that part out. i guess i was wrong.

but i did say that the heads were the same, which they are, and that was what the OP was asking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok I'm gonna pick them up and yep gonna have the block tolerences checked the has only has 76xxx on it and has been maintained it's whole life(my great gma bout it new with 4 miles on it) so it should be ok but rather be safe then sorry
 

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my advice would be to go ahead and freshen up the bottom end since you are pulling the engine apart. new rings and bearings and perhaps a cam swap depending on what you are wanting from the engine.
 

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my advice would be to go ahead and freshen up the bottom end since you are pulling the engine apart. new rings and bearings and perhaps a cam swap depending on what you are wanting from the engine.
I agree. Even if you don't want to bore out the block:
* a set of rings will only run you ~$35 from rockauto
* Connecting rod Bearings ~$15
* Crank bearings $29-35

... plus the time to put it all together.
-g
 

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given the amount of information in this section, i figured it wasnt necessary to point that part out. i guess i was wrong.

but i did say that the heads were the same, which they are, and that was what the OP was asking about.
His profile only shows 7 posts, so I wanted to nip any confusion in the bud.

I agree. Even if you don't want to bore out the block:
* a set of rings will only run you ~$35 from rockauto
* Connecting rod Bearings ~$15
* Crank bearings $29-35

... plus the time to put it all together.
-g
If cylinder pressure is okay, I would even say keep the rings and just do bearings.
 

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His profile only shows 7 posts, so I wanted to nip any confusion in the bud.
not a problem, sometimes i forget that my learning curve is much steeper than others, and i can assume too much. besides i dont mind proper correction, that way i also learn things.

If cylinder pressure is okay, I would even say keep the rings and just do bearings.
for the most part i agree with this, its not a bad choice, but i figure since he is there anyway, it doesnt take much effort to install new rings when installing new bearings at the same time. the only thing i would recommend is getting rings that are pregapped rather than file to fit to minimize downtime.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I understand what you guys are saying I'm not a master mechanic by any means but I've turned a few wrenches I have a 03 Blazer with 383 Stroker Vortec that I did did the swap on. With the bird not looking for the typical noob I want a stroker, supercharged, cammed, nitrous but still want to get 30mpg but I have a $500 budget. Just new to the car, the reason I don't have many post over the last couple months is I've just been reading threw the forums to become a little more knowledgeable about the car.
 

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I understand what you guys are saying I'm not a master mechanic by any means but I've turned a few wrenches I have a 03 Blazer with 383 Stroker Vortec that I did did the swap on. With the bird not looking for the typical noob I want a stroker, supercharged, cammed, nitrous but still want to get 30mpg but I have a $500 budget. Just new to the car, the reason I don't have many post over the last couple months is I've just been reading threw the forums to become a little more knowledgeable about the car.
i know where you are coming from. i also read through forums before i decide to join. i also go one step further though, and when i find something that interests me, i download it so i an read it over again at my leisure.
 
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