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The Band, not the Disease!
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OK, nows the time for some new gears. 3.73's. I got the 97 4.6, with the 3.23 trak lok rear end. What special tools do i need? Any advice? I've got great mechanical ability and more tools than I will ever need, so none of that is an issue =) Please help?
 

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Check the tech articles, I'm pretty sure there is one for gears.

-Miller
 

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The Band, not the Disease!
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Discussion Starter #4
There is no article on how to change gear ratios =(
 

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You probably will want to take the whole differential out to do the gears.
It will make it a whole lot easier. The crush collar takes A LOT of force to crush down, and there really isn't enough room under the car (it can be done but...)

You also should replace your axel seals, pinion seal, pinion nut, and you have to replace the crush collar. You don't need a cover gasket, just some high-temp rtv. You may also need to replace your bearings, mine were still good at around 60,000 miles.
You can either get a install kit from Summit (comes with shims), or just buy the indivual parts from a gear shop. I think my seals, crush collar, and nut came to $30.
The person who helped me had shims, but we didn't need to change the factory ones, they worked perfect for mine.

As for tools, you need an inch/pound torque wrench to check the back lash, and a dial indicator. There is also a "paint/grease" you need to make sure the gears are setup right as well, but I forgot what it's called. This will tell you what you need to do shim wise.
 

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how much does a shop usually charge to install gears?
 

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A guy I know said that the ford dealer installed his gears (out of car) for $100. That's the route I'm goign when I install my 3.73s because I SCREWED up my 3.55 install
:leftright
-Rob
 

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Formerly Fdawg97LX
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Aaron_T said:
If the diff. is in the car, they charge $500-$700 up here w/o the gears. I am sure it would be closer to what Rich said if it was off of the car.
aaron,

i am undecided between 3.73's and 4.10's. How are the 4.10's? what rpms are you at while driving around town? what about on the highway at about 70-75 mph? did you upgrade your driveshaft? thanks.

Frank
 

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fdawg97lx said:


aaron,

i am undecided between 3.73's and 4.10's. How are the 4.10's? what rpms are you at while driving around town? what about on the highway at about 70-75 mph? did you upgrade your driveshaft? thanks.

Frank
I just got done writting down different mph/rpm numbers -

30mph - around 1700rpm (3rd)/2100 in (2nd gear)
40mph - 2000rpm
50mph - 2500rpm
60mph - 3100rpm in 3rd, 2200rpm in o/d
80mph - 4300rpm in 3rd, 3000rpm in o/d

I drive around town w/ o/d off most of the time (the tranny shop told me to stay out of o/d as much as possible). I have been a little over 110mph with these gears. Not that I couldn't go any faster, but I didn't have much room to go any faster (probably could have got 130mph out of her).
Before the gears I went close to 150mph until I decided to shut down.
This is on the STOCK driveshaft. At the end of the 1/4 mile now I can feel the d/s start to vibrate (not too bad), but I am definitely getting a good d/s for the nitrous (don't have the nitrous yet). I will for sure have the kit before next summer, and I do not wanna run the 1/4 mile with that d/s and these gears.

I noticed on your 'reader's ride' page you were planing on doing a lot to your car, so if I were you I would go with the 4:10's. With a power adder I bet they will help out a lot (and I noticed you had a Zex kit in future mods). My gas mileage is still good unless I romp on it (which I do often), and I also drive most of the time w/ overdrive off, so that kills my gas mileage right there.

So if you drag racing/light to light race often enough, then go for the 4:10's. The gas mileage difference won't be that huge (than form the 3:73's), and if you like to top end race, then with the Zex you will have no problems. I love my 4:10's now, but with the added power from nitrous, they should really kick a$$.
 
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