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Discussion Starter #1
Would there be any benefit (SOTP or otherwise) to going from the 3.08 open rear in my Cougar to a 3.27 T-Lok rear? What could casue the rear to lock in a turn? Would new gear oil/friction modifier take care of it, or would a rebuild of the T-Lok unit be required?
 

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Of course there would be a benefit. Not much, but some. Whether you need to rebuild the trac-lock depends on mileage, but it would always be a good idea to do it before it goes in, while it's easier.
 

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When I went from 3.08 open to 3.55 open, there was a definite sotp difference. When I went from 3.55 open to 3.73 TL, I couldn't really feel a difference, but no more one tire fire. As far as why it would lock in turns I dont know. I know that if it pops during turns, you may need to use more friction modifier. I would agree with rich though. If it has some pretty good mileage on it, it wouldnt hurt to rebuild it while its sitting on the bench.
-Rob
 

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i went from a 3.27 open to 3.73 trak-lok, it was awesome, acceleration was alot faster... the 3.55's will be close, and about teh same improvement for you.. the trak-lok is very nice for a good launch...

there is a reason people always go to a limited slip
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My car has ABS... If I was to get a diff, would it matter if the "new" one came from a car with or without ABS? aren't the "gears" with the hall effect sensors on the outside the ABS/Trac control sensors?
 

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Every IRS case I have seen has the mounting for the wheel speed sensors on the outside of the case. Some early models may not have it,but everyone I have seen did. I have about 4 cases out in the garage and they all have it.
Alan
 

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sotp

there's one in every crowd, ufortunately, this time it's me to ask the dumb question. what is sotp? you can laugh at me now. Thanks
 

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Honestly, going from 3.08 to 3.27 isn't worth the expense. If you do a lot of highway driving, 3.73s are pretty good. I still get over 22mpg easy on the highway as long as I keep the speed reasonable. If this car weren't my daily driver, I'd have gone for 4.10s or 4.30s...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well... Right now I'm on a budget. I can't (safely) go to 3.73's without a new DS, and I'd need a speedcal or tear apart my transmission since I have a '99 GT 4R with the 8 tooth output shaft. Basically, the larger benefit would be the T-Lok rear. (while the 3.27 MIGHT make some SMALL difference, it probably wouldn't even add up to a 100th in the 1/4). I'm not sure if it's due to wheel slip, but since I put the PI engine in, if I'm really getting on it, such as merging with high speed traffic, the rear end feels like it's wagging a little (not much... just enough to feel)... As far as I can tell, all bearings are Ok, and my father said it could be becasue of the power the engine is putting out and the open rear. For $40 for a complete T'Lok rear, even if the T-Lok unit needs new clutches, isn't a bad deal. The T-Lok units I've been seeing go for $60+ alone, no gears or case. Then that case can always be upgraded to 3.73's later.
 

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In that case, yes you can get a 3.27 trak-lok pumpkin out of a yard then. Take the rear cover off and replace the clutches and it'll be like new.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
One last question... The diff I am getting, I'm going to rebuild the Trac-Lok unit (very carefully mark the gears to get the teeth lined up again). Do I NEED the complete rebuild kit (bearings, crush washer), or can I get away safely with pulling the carrier, rebuilding the trak-lok, and putting it back together and replacing external seals, but reusing the old bearings?
 

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I've replaced trak-lok clutches without removing the center section form the pumpkin... you're still going to have to remove the pumpkin form the car, but you don't have to mess with the ring and pinion. It is easier with the ring gear off, but it can be done either way. When I rebuilt my IRS for the 3.73s, I set the ring/pinion up, then installed the trak-lok clutches last. You're going to need a press to push that S spring in though, I havent found any other safe way to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
According to this article, it's possible to get the S spring in without a press.
 

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You can try, but i don't know how much success you will have.
 

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I knew it

I thought that is what it meant, but I was afraid I was wrong. Thanks
 

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As far as the S-spring goes, I clamped mine in a bench vise (about halfway down)to compress the spring. Then I picked up the carrier and set it down over the spring, then released the vise. Once it's started, it's easy to tap it the rest of the way in. Hope it helps.
 

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I guess that would work, but dang are those pumpkins heavy to pick up!
 
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