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Discussion Starter #1
i hear u guys talking about gear swaps and i would love to swap mine too, but since everything seems to be computer controlled on this cars, do i have to mess with the car's ecu to do this?

are there any issues on trans shifting? speedometer off?

any info greatly appreciated!:confused:
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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YOu change a little gear in the trans forthe speedo. ALso you could be tuned for it or not but its all going to be on how much you can stand. 373s alone isn't going to change much, you can just get the gear and be done with it. I drove my car with a built trans and tc with no tune and it was fierce when it kicked into gear, chirped the tires. SOme people don't like the neck snap other can live with it. ROde in a local members car with 373s and no tune and it was fine and fun at that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
YOu change a little gear in the trans forthe speedo. ALso you could be tuned for it or not but its all going to be on how much you can stand. 373s alone isn't going to change much, you can just get the gear and be done with it. I drove my car with a built trans and tc with no tune and it was fierce when it kicked into gear, chirped the tires. SOme people don't like the neck snap other can live with it. ROde in a local members car with 373s and no tune and it was fine and fun at that.
like the neck snap! like the neck snap!:D but, how about gas mileage and rpm's at highway speeds?
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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at 65 I am running 2300 rpms. 55 its 2000. And at 70 its 2500. These are just my rough guesses from memory. THe neck snap I had was from I guess the line pressure from the trans when it kicked it gear. A tune really smoothed it out and made it more DDish.

You have a shop here in AZ that builds great rear ends "AZ differential" they did both mine and that other members(goofizzle) gear installs. Just find a mark rear end(you drop 20 lbs roughly) and trac loc and you can be rolling real pretty. With roughly stock power levels I can break both tires free from a stop.

Also I have some sort of rubbing issue with either my drive shaft shifting underload or a pulley going bad cause I tried to take it to the top and see what flooring it does and I had to let off cause I heard some squealing. So its not a computer problem its more of a mechanical thing with cars that have a stock motor. I think I need a pinion angle brace. Btw the other member runs a stock driveshaft POS and it works for him. I swapped to a 93 1 piece mark shaft since my U joints were bad anyway. Something to thinkabout when you add the extra GO gears give ya. Also don't count on your TC holding up to any abuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
at 65 I am running 2300 rpms. 55 its 2000. And at 70 its 2500. These are just my rough guesses from memory. THe neck snap I had was from I guess the line pressure from the trans when it kicked it gear. A tune really smoothed it out and made it more DDish.

You have a shop here in AZ that builds great rear ends "AZ differential" they did both mine and that other members(goofizzle) gear installs. Just find a mark rear end(you drop 20 lbs roughly) and trac loc and you can be rolling real pretty. With roughly stock power levels I can break both tires free from a stop.

Also I have some sort of rubbing issue with either my drive shaft shifting underload or a pulley going bad cause I tried to take it to the top and see what flooring it does and I had to let off cause I heard some squealing. So its not a computer problem its more of a mechanical thing with cars that have a stock motor. I think I need a pinion angle brace. Btw the other member runs a stock driveshaft POS and it works for him. I swapped to a 93 1 piece mark shaft since my U joints were bad anyway. Something to thinkabout when you add the extra GO gears give ya. Also don't count on your TC holding up to any abuse.
on your driveshaft rubbing issue i would check your engine and tranny mounts. mounts could have enough play to make your tranny tail wag like a dogs tail. proof of this is that your pinion seal is going to go out and it will again if you install a new one without taking care of the mounts first. problem is more evident when you step on it.
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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I do have original trans and engine mounts I should think about new ones, although they aren't broken and leaking. My mileage went down of course but it wasn't drastic, my car never got great mileage, of course I never took it on a 500 mile highway trip either. Id say the 2-3 mpg drop mentioned here is fairly accurate.

I never could best 23 combined mpg with the car being stock. I drove it like a grandpa to his funeral to get that mileage too(never over 70 mph). It was a good mix of city and highway with a little more city than highway. Back when gas was 4 bucks a gallon I made it my game to get the most mpg possible, I had 327s in it.
 

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Also with no tune you will be governed out at 80 something mph.

IIRC the inject tech chip i still have only lets me go up to 3.73. Is this correct?
-Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I do have original trans and engine mounts I should think about new ones, although they aren't broken and leaking. My mileage went down of course but it wasn't drastic, my car never got great mileage, of course I never took it on a 500 mile highway trip either. Id say the 2-3 mpg drop mentioned here is fairly accurate.

I never could best 23 combined mpg with the car being stock. I drove it like a grandpa to his funeral to get that mileage too(never over 70 mph). It was a good mix of city and highway with a little more city than highway. Back when gas was 4 bucks a gallon I made it my game to get the most mpg possible, I had 327s in it.
that what i thought about mine until i took them out. one was completely separated and the other had leak all the fluid in it. no sing of that fluid anywhere. double check.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I do have original trans and engine mounts I should think about new ones, although they aren't broken and leaking. My mileage went down of course but it wasn't drastic, my car never got great mileage, of course I never took it on a 500 mile highway trip either. Id say the 2-3 mpg drop mentioned here is fairly accurate.

I never could best 23 combined mpg with the car being stock. I drove it like a grandpa to his funeral to get that mileage too(never over 70 mph). It was a good mix of city and highway with a little more city than highway. Back when gas was 4 bucks a gallon I made it my game to get the most mpg possible, I had 327s in it.
thanks for the info i think i'll go with 3.73''s
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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If you're seriously putting in 373 do a jmod "search" or a trans swap search and you can't use your stock TC and expect it to last long even if you aren't heavy on the pedal it will wear out eventually.

I think the 373s make the car strait fun because its enough pull even with stock power n a tune its enough so you can jump ahead fast in traffic. I had dirtydog build a trans and mod a tc nicely both can handle the gears. I also run a 42k gvw tru cool max long trans coolers. I sort of worked up to the gears and have the car braced in the weak spots on the body(none on the rear K though) so as to not crack the two piece firewall. Since this is my daily driver I wanted it be tough and not break down. I want to go with a bigger rad and fan right now but I can wait til I really have that kind of money to spend. Also be choosy where you get your gear from there is a thread about aftermarket gears and there looser tolerances in gear dimensions. OEM is twice the price but more accurate and makes the install easier and more pro in general as in it wont frustrate the installer. You can buy them used here which is a real bargain just watch out for them they are popular choice here. Also think about a diff cover brace because a user here Racecougar broke his diff back cover with about as much hp as a v8 puts out with 373s. I have one on mine and think its well worth it as insurance.
 
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