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Discussion Starter #1

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seems pretty good, id go for them if i wasnt paying off debt, i cant wait till the end of july
 

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Discussion Starter #4
DMcBrideBoston said:
Yes, those are them, and that is a good price, they don't get any cheaper than that brand new.

Check modular Depot or Corral and see about used ones, I bought a set for 114 bucks used.

Your Choice

Dave
Awesome, I will get them (Ebay). For some reason, I just find myself more at peace using new parts instead of used.

I have read this article on MustangWorld about installation:

http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/pull1.htm

Is an air impact wrench one of those things you find in shops?

And, is there any torque specs I should know when putting them back together?

Thanks again!

John
 

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New used, it's real hard for a set of pullies to go bad, doesn't happen too often. Whatever makes you feel better...

As for the Air impact, all you have to do is unbolt the alternator and take the alt pulley and the alt to a garage, and ask them to swap the pullies for ya. Everyone I know has done this and they have never charged one person, it only takes about 5 seconds to do.

For the water pump pulley, easy,only 4 bolts.

For the crank pulley, go to Autozone on 31W and rent a Crank Pulley Puller (Harmonic Balancer), it was 15.00 here, then when you return the tool, they give you ya 15 bucks back.

Torques Specs......I don't know, do a search I am sure they are on there

Hope this helps

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #6
DMcBrideBoston said:
New used, it's real hard for a set of pullies to go bad, doesn't happen too often. Whatever makes you feel better...

As for the Air impact, all you have to do is unbolt the alternator and take the alt pulley and the alt to a garage, and ask them to swap the pullies for ya. Everyone I know has done this and they have never charged one person, it only takes about 5 seconds to do.

For the water pump pulley, easy,only 4 bolts.

For the crank pulley, go to Autozone on 31W and rent a Crank Pulley Puller (Harmonic Balancer), it was 15.00 here, then when you return the tool, they give you ya 15 bucks back.

Torques Specs......I don't know, do a search I am sure they are on there

Hope this helps

Dave
Actually Dave, that practically answered all my questions, thanks a bunch!

John

By the way, finally met another guy in town who was modding his T-Bird.. Purple 95 with Cowl/Kit, SC wheels, Civic Intake, Catless duals, etc. Name is Chris.. Ever ran across him?

Either way THE NUMBERS ARE GROWING! FROM ONE TO TWO! Mustangs will soon tremble...

Okay enough dreaming ;-)
 

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I needed to remove my fan (easy) and almost completely remove the radiator. The only thing holding it in was the coolant lines and the transmission fluid lines.

The impact wrench fit right in there after that. I wouldn't attempt the install without an impact wrench or a strap wrench. You will likely get to the crank pulley bolt and end up "stuck" without it.
 

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i have that exact set.... hardest part was removing the crank pulley...but other than that just remove the fan shroud...

but it was worth it cause it took off 1/4 second off 1/4 time :D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
DMcBrideBoston said:
Now that I think of it, we did remove the fan shroud. Also, the air impact really would make it easy on the removalof the crank pulley but, it is not necessary. When mine were done, I didn't use an any air tools.

Dave
It sounds easier to just take off the altenator though and rent the harmonic tool.. I wouldn't need to touch the fan / radiator to get the crank / alt pulley off?
 

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I'll be selling my Steeda pulleys at the end of this month for $75 + shipping, that's what I paid for them, so I'll let them go for that.
 

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Metalbassist03 said:


It sounds easier to just take off the altenator though and rent the harmonic tool.. I wouldn't need to touch the fan / radiator to get the crank / alt pulley off?
Regardless, Unless you have an air impact wrench, you have to take off the altenator; or sit the for hours wondering why the pulley wont come off.

And you DO have to take the fan out to get at the crank pulley or you will never ger the harmonic balancer puller down to the pulley.

It took 2 hours or so from start to finish........



PS.............I WOULD JUMP ALL OVER 75 PLUS SHIPPING DUDE!

Thats 75 more bucks you can put somewhere else.

Dave
 

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man once july rolls by, they just may be on my buy list, along with these borbet rims i love
 

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if you want to buy new and want to save some money buy the asp underdrive pullies. they are the same as steeda. asp actually makes steeda pullies and steeda repackages them and marks them up because the box says steeda on it. i wish i knew this before i bought my steeda pullies.

also for tourqe specs, the alternator and waterpump dont really matter just make sure they're tight but the crank has to be trqued to 120 ft./lbs.

It shouldnt take you more than a couple of hours to do and that includes making a trip to autozone to get the alternator pulley switched, buy some rtv and rent the harmonic balancer puller.

to install you have to remove the fan. radiator can stay in if you use normal ratchets and wrenches. another tip when your removing the crank bolt and when you torque it back down after you put the new pulley on, make sure someone goes under the car and holds the flywheel so the motor wont turn because the crank bolt is so tight it will turn the motor before it comes loose (that how it was on the 2 tbirds and the one mark 8 i've done). to get to the flywheel, pull the torque convertor access plug on the transmission bellhousing and you will see it. then just use a screw driver to stop it from turning while someone else loosens/tightens the crank bolt.

its a pretty straight forward swap. any more questions just ask.

Frank

Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #16
fdawg97lx said:
if you want to buy new and want to save some money buy the asp underdrive pullies. they are the same as steeda. asp actually makes steeda pullies and steeda repackages them and marks them up because the box says steeda on it. i wish i knew this before i bought my steeda pullies.

also for tourqe specs, the alternator and waterpump dont really matter just make sure they're tight but the crank has to be trqued to 120 ft./lbs.

It shouldnt take you more than a couple of hours to do and that includes making a trip to autozone to get the alternator pulley switched, buy some rtv and rent the harmonic balancer puller.

to install you have to remove the fan. radiator can stay in if you use normal ratchets and wrenches. another tip when your removing the crank bolt and when you torque it back down after you put the new pulley on, make sure someone goes under the car and holds the flywheel so the motor wont turn because the crank bolt is so tight it will turn the motor before it comes loose (that how it was on the 2 tbirds and the one mark 8 i've done). to get to the flywheel, pull the torque convertor access plug on the transmission bellhousing and you will see it. then just use a screw driver to stop it from turning while someone else loosens/tightens the crank bolt.

its a pretty straight forward swap. any more questions just ask.

Frank

Frank
I've already purchased the pulleys actually. I know where the TC drain plug is.. Is that the same thing as the access plug?? Then all I do is just jam it with a screwdriver to prevent the TC (dunno what a flywheel looks like) from moving?
 

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you can miss the flywheel, its the big wheel with all the teeth on it. if you can find the access plug you will find the flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
FordFanatic said:
you can miss the flywheel, its the big wheel with all the teeth on it. if you can find the access plug you will find the flywheel.
I see, I'll go take a look at it and see if I can locate it (best to be prepared before battle eh?).

Two more things:

1.) Is taking the fan off hard, and is there a TQ spec for putting it back?

2.) What is RTV?

I think that is it actually... Thanks a bunch for the help / tips.

I of course will post pictures of ALL the mods that have been done to my car AFTER I get my new wheels on.

John
 

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Metalbassist03 said:


I see, I'll go take a look at it and see if I can locate it (best to be prepared before battle eh?).

Two more things:

1.) Is taking the fan off hard, and is there a TQ spec for putting it back?

2.) What is RTV?

I think that is it actually... Thanks a bunch for the help / tips.

I of course will post pictures of ALL the mods that have been done to my car AFTER I get my new wheels on.

John
when you take out the tc access plug look in the hole toward the engine and you will see the flywheel. it has all the little teeth like fordfanatic said. just hold it with a screw driver to stop it from turning.

to take the fan off, unplug it and take out the 2 bolts and thats all. 1 bolt on each side. its real easy.

rtv is silicon gasket maker. just go to autozone and ask for rtv gasket maker and they'll give it to u. u need to put it on the keyway slot of the crank pulley and i also put it on the crank bolt washer.

any more questions just fire away.

Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #20
fdawg97lx said:


when you take out the tc access plug look in the hole toward the engine and you will see the flywheel. it has all the little teeth like fordfanatic said. just hold it with a screw driver to stop it from turning.

to take the fan off, unplug it and take out the 2 bolts and thats all. 1 bolt on each side. its real easy.

rtv is silicon gasket maker. just go to autozone and ask for rtv gasket maker and they'll give it to u. u need to put it on the keyway slot of the crank pulley and i also put it on the crank bolt washer.

any more questions just fire away.

Frank
Cool beans man, that answers everything, I'll post pics and track times when it all gets said and done (next week or 2)

Thanks again everyone for your valued advice and help,

John
 
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