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Discussion Starter #1
Let me start my story by giving you its past.

Back in August of 2004 I started having the infamous "shudder" from 2nd to 3rd gear on my 4R70W Transmission. I had started a thread on here and BlackCat94 had given advice to just simply have the Pan Dropped, The Filter and Tranny Fluid changed. ( Here is the old post http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=46713:) )

Well went I went to get that done at the time the transmission shop talked me out of doing this stating it would more then likely just finish my transmission off. So I did not get this done.

Fast Forward 2 years 4 months. Over time the Transmission "shudder" has gotten progressively worse. I had used an additive to help out about a year ago and it did help the situation out some.

Well today I finally broke down and took a chance with the fluid/filter change. I decided if it finished off the transmission then so be it, I would buy a replacement one, however..... GOOD NEWS! The tranmission is working wonderfully now. It shifts smoothly between 2nd and 3rd and I couldn't be happier with the results considering it now has 140,000 miles on the transmission. It even improved other areas such as it used to take a good 2-3 seconds to go from reverse back to drive, now it shifts back into drive instantly.

I want to give a belated apology to BlackCat94 for not trusting his instinct earlier. If anyone else is "on the fence" about this, maybe this will help you make a decision.

Thanks BlackCat94!
 

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I'm not sure why a transmission shop would say not to have the Pan Dropped, The Filter and Tranny Fluid changed. That’s like saying not to change your engines oil if it’s making noise. It may not help, but it def wont hurt it lol.
 

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If a transmission is too bad and you change the fluid the new clean fluid could destroy the seals and speed up the transmissions death.
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #4
dirtyd0g said:
If a transmission is too bad and you change the fluid the new clean fluid could destroy the seals and speed up the transmissions death.
Alan
Dirtydog,

I remember you saying that a couple years ago and that is the reason I didn't get it done then.

Today however what we did before actually changing the fluid is we dropped the pan and saved the old fluid. We looked at the color and consistency of the fluid first and checked to see how much metal shavings were in it.

It didn't seem to bad so at that point we decided to break open the old filter and check it. Upon opening the old filter there were some metal shavings in the filter but the transmission tech stated he honestly had seen much worse so he thought it wouldn't hurt it at all to put in new fluid.

I guess we will see how the "seals" hold up if they get soft from the new fluid, however at this point I am highly optimistic and convinced it was a good move.. Time will tell though.
 

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Thats all you can do, even if it does go bad it's not like you ruined it by treating it right. Prepare for the worst and hope for the best.
Alan
 

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Was the old fluid Dexron III and the new Mercon V? My tranny's getting worse and I'm thinking of making the switcharoo in a last-ditch effort.

-John
 

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Discussion Starter #7
jwcalla said:
Was the old fluid Dexron III and the new Mercon V? My tranny's getting worse and I'm thinking of making the switcharoo in a last-ditch effort.

-John
Merc V.. The Old was Merc V as well
 

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I am in the same boat. Unfortunately, I am convinced I am already having seal troubles. Might just be the cork gasket at the pan, but I am really not sure. I was considering changing the fluid in a last ditch effort, and cleaning the entire underside of the car to see if in deed the seals are toast. At this point I am not sure what to do. But if this helps, and gets me to the first of the year, I may attempt it today, to see what happens. Thanks for the info, and all the best rhyno.
 

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I have the same issue. I just changed the fluid from Mer v to fresh Merc v, and it is still shuddering. I am going to try an additive next.

Joe
 

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I am certainly considering this play right now but I have several questions.

1. Is there any reason that the pan drop is favored over the flush method?
2. How many quarts are needed if I do the pan drop AND drain the converter?
3. What 'additives' are people using?

I also have seen many cases of trans failure right after fluid change so i am skittish as well.
 

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unless you drop the pan, then you can't change the filter. . . . .that is probably the main reason for the "pan drop" method. Also you can look at and clean the collection magnet in the pan to see if you may be in for trouble. . . .JMO
 

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the "additives" people use for example is, Lucas oil..... I'm sure they make one specified fro automatic tranny's.
 

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I find it interesting that you use the Red bottle (60902) even though the company makes a version seemingly specific to Mercon V (green bottle - 62005)
 

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My wife's 98 Crown Vic has 154k on it and had the TC shudder. Thinking since it was an old police car, surely they had changed the fluid at least once. Well I dropped the pan and the factory dip-stick plug was in the pan, yikes! Since I had already let it pump most of the fluid already out, drained the TC and dropped the pan, I had no other choice put to proceed. Everything is now working like it should and the shudder is gone. Took 13 quarts to fill her back up.

Rob
 

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DScruggs said:
I find it interesting that you use the Red bottle (60902) even though the company makes a version seemingly specific to Mercon V (green bottle - 62005)
As I said I do not use the red in 4r70w's I use fluid only. The green bottle doesn't do what it is supposed to do.
Alan
 

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I did the pan drop, filter, and Mercon V two years ago in Feb. Here recently my tranny has been making a noise under load (sound like metal rattling really fast). I don't have a shudder, but it seems like it slips under WOT at around 4500+ (although this could be electrical, I do need new plugs). Any suggestions or should I start planning on a new tranny now.
 

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Made a bunch of very detailed observations about shift quality and oddities today. Will post in separate thread.
 
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