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I was going to use their degreaser on my engine, but it says do not use on aluminum. And I heard someone using it here. Do I have the info correct? If so, would it hurt anything? Thanks.

-Brian
 

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If it says don't use on aluminum why take chances go out and buy some good old fashioned "gunk" degreaser
 

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Castrol Super Clean. It's like brake cleaner in a squirt bottle. It has a warning "avoid PROLONGED contact with aluminum" and I never had a problem with the heads on my old 4.6 (just my $.02
 

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That stuff has some sort of acid in it. I used it to degrease intake tube before painting. It is way strong for even painted surfaces. If you use it cut it with water first and rinse it fast. Otherwise, I would get a good cleaner made for aluminum.
 

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I use it and it made my engine look bling blingy, I let it sit for what it told me, like 10mins or so. Its removes EVERYTHING. I always have 2 refill bottles waiting ;)
 

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I used it for the stubborn stains when I was cleaning my engine prior to rebuilding. It didn't seem to bother the aluminum to me. I used it for the tougher stains in the combustion chambers and all over the heads. Didn't use it on the intake, it was professionally cleaned at a machine shop.
 

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are you guys using this to clean the engine when it is still in the engine bay? Can i do that, just spray this stuff on and rinse with my garden hose? Is there anything i should cover or take off or not spray while doing this?
 

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a hose works fine as long as its hits hard, i sparyed the whole engine bay, i wasnt really caring it was like 30 degrees out!
 

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Hypothetically if there's a very small leak between the head gasket, will degreasing the engine just encourage the leak?

I got really cruddy engine bays in both my used T-bird and Taurus but afraid to cleaning the engine fearing more problems (i.e. leaks) :(
 

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Just park with the nose downhill so the water runs off instead of pooling in the plug recesses, which also makes a crappy running engine, till you dry all the plugs and recesses.... I also wrap the main junction box and power supply with alum. foil, which helps some.....LOL
 

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Leland Jacobson said:
Just park with the nose downhill so the water runs off instead of pooling in the plug recesses, which also makes a crappy running engine, till you dry all the plugs and recesses.... I also wrap the main junction box and power supply with alum. foil, which helps some.....LOL

so how do you dry the plug recesses? Just wait till it drys itself becuase of heat?


I am wondering all this because the self car washes around here have those spray hoses with degressers to clean engine bays and my dad used it on his jeep cheeroke one day and the next, it wouldnt start for a long time.
 

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Well, I have a mini vac attachment that gets down in there, then I pull and wipe down plug and wire, after that a wooden dowel with a clean absorbent rag is stuffed into the recess, and sorta "swooshed" around..... PITA? you betcha ! thats why my engine gets pretty dirty before I warsh her down , usually before pulling the injectors, and /or plugs (on my setup, you gots to pull the rails and injectors to get to the plugs/ wires) LOL
.......................................................................................................................................'95 LX, 5.4L with F-150 intake.... (6# Powerdyne being shoehorned in when my wife isnt looking)
 

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Best way to clean it is to just cut up a towel and stuff it down into the plug holes with the plug wires removed. Just leave a bit sticking out to extract later. I put the plug wire ends in a baggie and rubberband it closed.
I have also used my shop vac with a piece of 3/8 heater hose cut at an angle as an "attachment" to get in there to remove water and debris.
 
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