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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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I was at the junkyard today and I started to get into it with a mark8. I have a problem with removing the pumpkin. I cant rotate the drive shaft so There is one unaccessible nut holding the drive shaft to the pumpkin. How does anyone overcome this. I may go back asap to have another go at it. I ended up dropping the tank and exhaust just to get to one more nut of the driveshaft joint. But then the fuel lines and other hoses from the tank stopped me from completely removing the tank. I didnt have anything to cut the hoses. I had to leave it as is. I was beginning to get dehydrated and I spent a ton of time in it already and I wanted to get other things. these bizitches here were about to charge me 30 bucks for SC L braces, I said thats nuts and they dropped it to 20. I still wasnt happy but its ok since I got plenty of things for free.

So anyway should I go back and finish cutting off the tank and exhaust to see if I can get to that last nut? I removed everything holding the pumpkin up except for the half shafts are still half way in. I couldnt get them out either not enough clearance. I want to go finish the job but how does anyone else get a pumpkin from the junkyard if you can shift into neutral? thanks.
 

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Wouldn't it be easier to just disconnect the shifter linkage and take the trans out of park so that you could rotate the shaft?
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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Discussion Starter #3
hey it sure would. Could you please show me where to do that. Im not sure where its located.
 

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On the driver's side of the trans, you'll see where the shifter cable is connected to the shift lever on the trans. Just pry them apart wjth a screwdriver and take the trans out of "park." Then you can turn the driveshaft to where you need it to remove the nut. Be sure to put the trans back into "Park" so it won't turn when you're trying to remove the nut. The driveshaft is the "easy" part. The hard part is getting the halfshafts out.
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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Discussion Starter #5
I was just going to cut the boots on the half shaft and that should give me clearance to pull out one side completely.
 

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That's how I do it. If the MK VIIIs didn't have those torx head bolts on the spindle, you could just pull the three bolts off and remove the whole shaft assembly. Then pulling the pumpkin would be easy just like on the T-Birds.
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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Discussion Starter #7
I had the torx socket to remove the lower bolts but one of the heads of the bolts is so big that it cant clear the half shaft. I loosened all of the nuts and bolts. but the damn bolt head had to be like 4 times larger than the birds for some reason and you have to take off the halfshaft completely to get off. I would do that to get the lower control arms but the inner bolts are tough as nails to break loose. Right now Im just going to grab the pumpkin. I think it might be a 93 with a one piece drive shaft if anyone in the phoenix area is interested.
 

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That's the problem. The bolt heads are too big to get past the CV joint. I've also done it by removing the shaft from the spindle. Sometimes it's easier that way. If you can get the spindle nut off, then you just pound the shaft in with a mallet. Sometimes, though, the nut is too tight to get off with a small breaker bar.
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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Discussion Starter #9
I couldnt get the nut off the half shaft ends. I ended up bending that big nut to clear the half shaft. I used a pry bar and huge adjustable wrench to bend it just enough and I worked it out if there. What are those 2 wires that attach to the side of the center section? I have the damn things home finally after 3 tries. I even decided to take the arms now that I know how hard it can be to get them I dont want to do it twcie. I only had time to grab oneside though. The idiots at the junkyard didnt even know what either part was when I went to pay. It was stupid the were going to charge me for that little t-bone part attached to the arm. I had to remove it while paying. I hope to grab the other side since it has only 2 bolts holding it to the car. Ill get brakes another day when I need them. It sucks to not have the cash to just get them for the much later future but Im running a big bill as it is.
 

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Nest time

Hello

Next time you Should buy the whole rear K + drive shaft.

Just cut the wires above the plug-ins. Cut the brake lines above the Unions.

You cut above the connection areas in case they don't match your car. Because if you go back they probably will charge you for them.

Unbolt the upper shock nuts. Then unbolt the K. If the lower K nuts won't come
cut them between the upper mount & Chassis.

The parts you don't need you can take to the scrape yard or sell them.

You should make a deal first, pay then remove & take the parts. The more you deal with a yard the better they are to you.

A sawzal is your best friend here. Up here in the North-east (Buffalo)We have a salt problem. makes the bolts stick to the rubber bushings & inner sleeves.

Paul
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah Ive thought about that but I have no way of hauling the whole K member but I would think your right. The drive shaft was a 2 piece I saw the little gap that my 1 piece doesnt have. This yard charges you for everything though, its called Ecology they are based in California. Its really just center section, Lower control arms, and rear brakes/spindles (and front sport brakes if possible) that I want though. If I bought a whole K member they would probably itemize it until I start complaining if that even did any good, the K itself would cost me a bunch. This yard is full of morons who have never seen any of the parts I pull and its a debate every time I pay over what it is. They do offer small cores though so Ill take my old front lower control arms for a core charge.
 
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