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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Just wanted to make an introduction I just bought this 1996 Thunderbird LX with a 4.6l with 135k miles on the clock rust free in fair condition.. Its Bright Red with Gray leather interior in fair shape everything works.. interior wise Motor runs great.. However..... The transmission slips reason I bought the car cheap looking to fix..

I'm gonna fix this car up.. and get it back in really good shape with some performance mods.. I understand that one of the best things you can do is Jmod the Trans which I plan to do..

I have a few options

1: I can pick up a used Transmission for $275 with 80k miles and have My trans guy inspect it and do the Jmod

2: have the original transmission rebuild with a Jmod

The Transmission engages and the car will move but if I push on the pedal to take off it slips and wont move.. The car can move and get up to speed if I baby it but if I lay into the peddle a little the engine will rev and the trans slips.. So any ideas knowing it will need to be rebuilt.. would it be worth trying to put any Lucas stop slip.. Also Transmission leaks fluid looks like its coming out of the passenger side and drips on the exhaust.. not when running but after its sat and cooled down..

I know its really a waste of time messing with it.. seeing as how i know it needs to be rebuilt.. but if it grab just enough to go for a 15 min joy ride that really be cool..
 

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EDIT:
I missed this part:
Also Transmission leaks fluid looks like its coming out of the passenger side and drips on the exhaust.. not when running but after its sat and cooled down..
If it won't move forward or reverse, Make sure it has fluid in it.

Leaking from the pass side could be the cooler lines, and they have pressure, so it could be almost empty.

To measure it right, With the parking brake on and engine running, you run it thru the gears with your foot on the brake, and leave it running in neutral and check it. Add a half of a quart at a time to bring it up to the full cold line, and see if it moves.

It may not move for long, depending on what it's been thru, but it might work. :zdunno:


To replace it, You want to pick up an 02 transmission from a Gran Marquis, non-police model. Mustang and Crown Vic will also work, but Marquis are grampa driven, lol.

It has significant upgrades over the 96 one.

Take IT to your tranny guy, and tell him to replace all the seals and accumulators in it. They'll be hard as a rock.

If he does GM trannys, he already knows about the one piece teflon seals, and will probably have the installer for them.

If not, tell him about them; they're in the article below. :) Show him this:

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/4r70w-transmission-rebuild-diary.128800/

The one piece seals make a huge difference on how long these last.


You will have to repin the harness going to the new transmission; it's not hard.

I would rebuild it with Stock parts; with the new seals, it will last 200k if you limit the 3-4 and 4-3 shifts; Use the OD button unless you're on the interstate. :)

If drilling holes is not for you, you can order one of these:

https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/4r70e-w75e-w-late-00-up-super-tuff-plate/

It's extra thick, so it helps with other changes to the VB. :)

All the holes are at or bigger than the published ones; I measured one.

Check your driveshaft while it's loose; it's two pieces, glued together.

Make sure it's still glued. :)



Welcome to the club!

Take a pic of your driver door sticker; (you can block the vin number, only the last 6 change), and we can tell you what all the options are. :)
 

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Thanks for the info.. really appreciate it

Okay i'll get it up on the lift this weekend and look under the car to see exactly where the leak is coming from.. ill also get that picture too.. curious to find out.. thanks

Would a 01 Grand marquis Trans work with 43K miles? I can get it cheaper and its close.. It should be the same as the 02 marquis from what I'm reading..

Also what about the Torque converter? is it the same? any upgrades as far as that?
 

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I think 01's have all the good parts; I'm not sure. Searching here will find it, if you're interested.

It will need new rubber anyway, so miles really doesn't matter. The rubber will be hard, and not seal very well.

It might last for a bit, while you save for a rebuild. Might. :)

01 is 17 years, right?
 
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Looks like you have a solid car to work on. My Tbird is the same - Laser Red, Non Sport, Open Diff. I don't think the sticker tells you much else. Better looking gauges, the newer body, and courtesy lights; IMO why I like 96 year the best. Although 97 has a cup holder, try and find one of those before they get rare.
 

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The biggest deal on the sticker is the AX code, 5 means it's an open diff, which we knew by it having abs and traction control.

Apparently, on the early abs setups, trac-lok made the computer freak when it slipped a wheel on the wrong side. :)

The other big one is the spring code, 33gg is standard for a V8.
 

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Also what about the Torque converter? is it the same? any upgrades as far as that?
You can get Marauder a torque converter, it's the same one as used on the CVPI. I think Mustangs had it too. It has a little higher stall speed.

Al
 

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You can get Marauder a torque converter, it's the same one as used on the CVPI. I think Mustangs had it too. It has a little higher stall speed.

Al

Awesome.. I'll check around for one..

The biggest deal on the sticker is the AX code, 5 means it's an open diff, which we knew by it having abs and traction control.

Apparently, on the early abs setups, trac-lok made the computer freak when it slipped a wheel on the wrong side. :)

The other big one is the spring code, 33gg is standard for a V8.
Well that open diff will have to change eventually.. was hoping it had the trak-loc lol oh well..

The spring code? not sure what you mean there?

but Yeah that's why I bought it cause it had the V8 >:).. also on these Ive read of a PI intake that were all plastic and they leak.. I think this one has already been replaced. How could I check?

I know all this info is out there but id like to clarify.. If I go down this week to pick up this 01 Marquis Trans.. Do I need to change the output shaft? I know about repining the connector could I get a direct link on how to do that? Planning to overhaul the whole thing with the good seals

I'm thinking of taking on this rebuild by myself.. I found a goldmine of info on youtube at Transmission bench channel..

just trying to way the pros an cons of buying another Trans or just rebuild the one in my car.. Thanks everybody for all this info I really appreciate it to the max :smile2:
 

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The door jam sticker just let's you know what the car came equipped with from the factory.

Don't rule out the rear end, someone may have replaced the open diff with a traction lok.

The stock LX suspension is cussy compared to the Sport/SC, lower right corner of the door sticker gives you the code.

The front of the upgraded intake will have an aluminum cross over, you can't miss it. :)

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The door jam sticker just let's you know what the car came equipped with from the factory.

Don't rule out the rear end, someone may have replaced the open diff with a traction lok.

The stock LX suspension is cussy compared to the Sport/SC, lower right corner of the door sticker gives you the code.

The front of the upgraded intake will have an aluminum cross over, you can't miss it. :)

Joe
looks like this car has the Aluminum cross over..

Gonna rebuild front end and put new shocks all the way around.. would lowering it make it handle better? and good shocks like Monroe or KYB?

Cant get in touch with my trusted transmission guy.. bout to take on this trans build myself.. seen some good youtube vids on these 4r70W's I think I'll go pick up that one out if that 01 Marquis tomorrow.. $300 and a rebuild kit have it done around $600 hopefully..
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
EDIT:
I missed this part:


If it won't move forward or reverse, Make sure it has fluid in it.

Leaking from the pass side could be the cooler lines, and they have pressure, so it could be almost empty.

To measure it right, With the parking brake on and engine running, you run it thru the gears with your foot on the brake, and leave it running in neutral and check it. Add a half of a quart at a time to bring it up to the full cold line, and see if it moves.

It may not move for long, depending on what it's been thru, but it might work. :zdunno:


To replace it, You want to pick up an 02 transmission from a Gran Marquis, non-police model. Mustang and Crown Vic will also work, but Marquis are grampa driven, lol.

It has significant upgrades over the 96 one.

Take IT to your tranny guy, and tell him to replace all the seals and accumulators in it. They'll be hard as a rock.

If he does GM trannys, he already knows about the one piece teflon seals, and will probably have the installer for them.

If not, tell him about them; they're in the article below. :) Show him this:

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/4r70w-transmission-rebuild-diary.128800/

The one piece seals make a huge difference on how long these last.


You will have to repin the harness going to the new transmission; it's not hard.

I would rebuild it with Stock parts; with the new seals, it will last 200k if you limit the 3-4 and 4-3 shifts; Use the OD button unless you're on the interstate. :)

If drilling holes is not for you, you can order one of these:

https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/4r70e-w75e-w-late-00-up-super-tuff-plate/

It's extra thick, so it helps with other changes to the VB. :)

All the holes are at or bigger than the published ones; I measured one.

Check your driveshaft while it's loose; it's two pieces, glued together.

Make sure it's still glued. :)



Welcome to the club!

Take a pic of your driver door sticker; (you can block the vin number, only the last 6 change), and we can tell you what all the options are. :)

found an 2002 GM transmission.. Just making sure I use the Tbird's MLPS, VSS, and Repin connector??

I plan to put the seals put in ill order the Sonnex Sure cure kit..

Is that all i'll need?.. Ive read also about having to replace a TCC? yes or no

Just need a full overall picture of what I'm looking for..

Gonna try to have this thing on the road by the end of the month..

Thanks for your help so far
 

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Make sure you buy KYB not monroe. I know they sell them at supercoupeperformance.com, you might find them some where else. Good luck!
 

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found an 2002 GM transmission.. Just making sure I use the Tbird's MLPS, VSS, and Repin connector??

I plan to put the seals put in ill order the Sonnex Sure cure kit..

Is that all i'll need?.. Ive read also about having to replace a TCC? yes or no
You won't need to replace the TCC as you have a 96.

The Sonnax kit may not have the rubber seals; there's one for each clutch, and a few others.

This is the last kit I bought:
https://transpartsonline.com/TRANS_PARTS_FILE/tpcat.php?TransPartsOnline=AOD&TransPartsType=4R70

Be sure to get new 1-2 and 2-3 accumulators. The rubber on them will be hard. The above kit includes them.
That kit will make it new.

My tranny guy will install it for ~$1000, and put it in the car. I just pay him $300 to put it in.

I'm getting old; I can't hump a transmission like I used to. :grin2:

The sonnax kit looks like it has the Teflon one piece seals, but you'll have to buy or make a seal installer. (PVC pipe, cut to size)

Check out the article I linked.

For installing the drum seals, you can use a feeler gage set to massage the seals down, just don't cut the seals.
I bought an seal installer kit, ~$100. But I break a lot of these. :)

You will use your MLPS, VSS assembly, and repin the harness/connector to the tranny.

There's a piece of harness you can see after the tranny comes out, that will unplug, and you can take inside to redo. :)
It's a lot easier to repin that in a stable environment.

Here's a pic:



Before you start cutting things, look carefully at the pinout; people tend to see this drawing backwards, for some reason.

Your connector will look like the one on the left, one pin missing, #4.

You have to make it look like the pinout on the right.

The big difference being the 3 power pins in ours, and one power connection on the later ones.

Oh, and all the signals move. :)

Cut the extra power pins off, or remove them from the harness piece, and tape them up carefully.


Pin 9 moves to pin 2, 10 moves to 6, 1 moves to 7, 6 moves to 8, 2 moves to 4.

The pins that are now empty I fill with RTV at the outside end; If you fill the whole pin opening, it won't go back in. :)



If you want the trans to last, avoid 4th gear by using the OD off button on the shifter.

Going 3-4,4-3 on the interstate will kill one of these in a couple of years.

You also want to add the biggest tranny cooler you can.

If you like fast shifts, you can leave out the lower spring on the 1-2; if you install a brown spring on top, it will bark the tires evertime you hit 2nd, lol.
Even at 15mph, in a school zone. :grin2:




Good luck; If you've done transmissions before, it's not too bad; these were my first, and there was a learning curve, like anything.

Cleanliness is the big thing, a piece of lint from a rag will cause a seal to not work, so use T-shirt style rags, or order lint free cloths.

I use mineral spirits to clean up, but coat all parts with fresh tranny fluid after, otherwise they'll rust.

Don't use brake cleaner, unless you rinse the parts in mineral spirits after; chlorinated solvents are not good for rubber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Priceless information!! Thank you very much.. This will save me hours of headache.. You have no Idea how much I appreciate this.. I'll try to take some Detailed pics of everything as I start into this and keep y'all updated..
 
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