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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
head gasket failure FIXXXED!

so a few nights ago my car started to run rough from idle at the way up to 3000+. After I limped it home. I started to diagnose the car. No vaccum leaks at all. Then I listened to the pipes. Driver side tail pipe was loping healthy yet the passenger side sounded like a farm tractor. this rule out the maf and other related senors. So I started on the passenger side with fuel system and ignition. I checked plugs they looked good and swapped them around...started up no different. Then i thought one of my 30# injectors went bad. So i had a few spare 30#ers and swapped them around...ran the same...then swapped in the 19# stock injectors...ran the same. Then i unbolted the muffler from the passenger side tail and yep milky liquid...headgasket failure.

ive torn down the passenger side everything looks good but one quick question is the gasket didnt even look that bad for as badly as it was running? has anyone else had 4.6 HG failure that can chime in??


 

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How much boost are you running on the turbo setup? :)

I thought all the other engines were prone to HG failure, but not the 4.6l; especially the iron blocks...

BTW, what oil do you run? (Not *****ing, I haven't seen that particular color; Almost Vol Orange... :D It shouldn't have anything to do with the HG.)
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
im not running any boost yet. the turbo kit isnt complete im still NA. It probally has to do with 150K with stage 2 cams, 30 lb injectors, and other bolt ons...mostly for the fact that I beat on the motor alot. I have the head back on now and tomorrow morning ill finish hooking everything back up to see how it goes.

i just run valvoline5-30 with a motorcraft filter always. I push the intervals sometimes longer than 3000 depending on how busy or shall i say lazy i am.

Everything else is looking good so far. Bores didnt look to bad and still full of honing marks. Cam rotated fine. Nothing appeared to be borked or bent. Chains. guides, and sprokets minimal wear. deck and heads checked out flat with a strait edge and so on.

Cylinder 4 thou did have less fuel fouling on the plug (slightly white on the ground strap) and the CC and piston top had less carbon buildup. im still wondering if i still have an issue the only thing i can think of is ecu?? ill find out when i start it up tomorrow

I know the gasket is bad thou evwen thou it didnt look too bad. the coolant was milky out the exhaust. oil and sludge in the coolaqnt resivoir...temp gauge jumping around and so on. and there was a little evedince of carbon on the deck
 

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Number 4 being cleaner than the rest is likely due to the HG leak. On my 3.8 I had one cylinder I could eat off of (piston, plug, CC, valves, etc) and the rest had 100k worth of carbon.

Those guides do look like they are in good shape, I saw some in a torn down 00 Crown Vic engine and there was nothing left, each oil change it looked like someone dropped a bottle lid in and it got chewed up (from the amount of plastic//nylon in the filter).
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
yeah i had torn the motor down 50K ago for the cam swap and everythig still looks the same.

and yeah #4 seems to be the culprit so far. the only Hg failure i had encountered so far had a gasket blown completely out
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok so now the motor is back together but still running rough in the right side bank. So i actually have another problem or rather the blown gasket wasnt the reason it was running rough.

Im going to possibly make a junk yard trip tomorrow for some coil packs, regulator, ecu, and to the store for some plugs.

In theory if the left bank is beating strong this would rule out MAF, EGR problem, cam and crank sensors, clt sensor and so on. The valvetrain seemed fine and the HG wasnt that bad. If it is cyl #4 then that would rule out the coil pack due to 4 and 7 being shared. If the regulator went bad then i would think more cyls would be affected. or a bad pump then same. The most i can think of is the ecu problem with the 95s holding an injector. any input would be helpful
 

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maybe cracked head or cracked cylinder sleeve..

do a compression test on the engine and cooling system..

another thing to look for is more pressure than normal on the cooling system.

good luck and keep us posted..

if the injector is ticking it should be ok..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i just did some more tests...more swapping of wires and plugs. No change i am going to get a noid light to see if an injector is hanging up. This may be a failed ecu since there known to go bad on the 94-95s. going to pull apart tomoorow to pick one up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i just did some more tests...more swapping of wires and plugs. No change i am going to get a noid light to see if an injector is hanging up. This may be a failed ecu since there known to go bad on the 94-95s. going to pull apart tomoorow to pick one up. I doubt cracked heads or sleeve since i eyed the cyl and head pretty goodbut if the injectopr theory fails comp test next along with fuel pressure test
 

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Did you over heat the engine maybee? Just maybe the head is warped just enough to cause problems??? Is the milky water still present in the exhaust?? Good luck finding the problem, Im out of ideas..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
no i checked the head with a strait edge before reassembly. After reading many posts on the ECU problem i am suspecting a bad ecu. the car was running fine then pulling into a parking lot it went from lopey idle to the same crap idle all of a sudden. like not gradually but instantly
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i hope so too :bangwall:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok hahahah retard shucks guy sold me the wrong noid kit go figure . i should have check but whatever.

ANyways so i unplugged cyl#4 injector and started her up....possibly found my problem it ran exactly the same. I belive it is ecu related i am wondering if the iject drivers are burnt up. If anyone knows how the injector drivers work on an 95 ecu that would be knowledgable.
 

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The injectors are all supplied power and the PCM individually grounds each injector when it needs to fire. How long it is grounded determines the injector pulse width. When they go bad, it stays grounded leaving the injector wide open to dump fuel in the intake.
 

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A quick way to tell if the problem is the computer is get a long flat-head screwdriver and put the tip on the injector and put your ear up to the handle. On the ones that are working, you will hear it clicking on and off as the engine runs. When you get to the problem cylinder, if you don't hear any clicking, then the injector isn't switching, which means either the computer is hanging it opened, or the injector is bad. Since you have already swapped around injectors without the problem moving, then that would leave only the computer. That way you can find out for sure without the noid light.

Also, if you need one, I have a known good computer at home, $50 shipped.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
well still scraching my head on this one...i just tried the screwdriver trick i completely forgot about it until earlier all injectors are ticking well.

I swapped out my A5W0 ecu for a 94 E4A4....runns exactly the same so the ecu is not at fault.

I guess im going to have to pull the codes and go from there
heres a video...
 

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That looks to me like oil, not fuel. Is it possible you broke a ring land? You might not have noticed that when you had the head off without taking the piston out of the bore. I'd say do a compression check and see if that one cylinder is lower than all the others.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
yeah ill a comp test next. ive swappped wires from the good running bank to the rough running bank, ive swapped 4 & 7 around on the coil pack, injectors are ticking and ive swapped them around, swapped ecus, if it were maf-egr-clt-vaccumleak-iac then both banks would be rough. #4 is still the suspect. i pulled power from the injector and didnt change at all. heres another video as well if looks like its blowing fuel out the exhaust thou:confused: a steady stream of fluid.


 
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