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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, I'm having some issues and I'm hoping someone can assist me iin getting them resolved.

About two weeks ago I began the installation of a pair of ported and polished npi cylinder heads and new torque converter. Long story short, I pulled the motor, did the swap and and started the motor. The motor ran good for about 5 seconds then it cut off and oil pored out the back of the cylinder heads from the unplugged oil galley holes. Well i plugged them up and started the motor again and this time it ran fine with a slight tapping noise from the front og the motor. After the motor warmed up the noise smoothed out. Now the motor began to get hotter then ever, Usually my temp is to the left of Normal. The temp got as high has 3/4 on the gauge and maintained that temperature while idling still. So I took it out for a test drive and it felt real sluggish on the low end. It was wet out side and it didnt even try and spend the tires unless I stomped it at WOT. After I got in it and then slowed down I could here the tapping noise much louder and it definitely sounds like its under the timing cover.

Is it possible that i put the heads on the wrong side and the holes that were unplagged in the back of the heads are the same holes that feed the tensioners in the front, and are plugged?

Other notes:

2500 stall converter
oil pressure was reaing a little higher then normal
Thermostat works
radiator not clogged
Ignition is good
 

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WOT Junkie and avid corn burner
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Did you have to install the timing chain tensioners, or were they already on the heads?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yea, thats the plan as soon as I get home from work. I just wanted to know if there are any other possibilities or if any one else has experienced any thing of that nature.

Thanks,
 

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Super Moderator
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Check to see if any of the followers are off; that makes a tapping noise as well.

If any of those are loose, you need to pull the heads, imho.

Stuff happens, man. :(

It will probably cost you some cash, but you won't ever forget to check again.

Usually on new bare heads, there are no plugs at all. I believe there's a kit with all of them, IIRC.

You're the second person I've seen here with this issue; there were NO plugs in his heads.
 

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Do you have the heads you took off the engine?
If so, check them for what plugs belong and where.

That's what I do whenever I swap heads unto an engine that they did not come off of.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks you all for all your help.

I finally had some time to pull the timing cover. The oil feed holes for the tensioners were indeed plugged, there was no tension on the passenger side chain at all( not even a little. I didn't have time to put it back together tonight but I will post another update on my progress when the opportunity presents itself.

I do have one more problem My passenger side cam is almost impossible to rotate, where as the drivers side turns much easier. I followed the torque sequence and specifications. Idk what could be the cause other than a defective cam tower???

Anyone ever experience this before? Any help is greatly appreciated.

I know its not PTV

Thanks,
 

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Thanks you all for all your help.

I finally had some time to pull the timing cover. The oil feed holes for the tensioners were indeed plugged, there was no tension on the passenger side chain at all( not even a little. I didn't have time to put it back together tonight but I will post another update on my progress when the opportunity presents itself.

I do have one more problem My passenger side cam is almost impossible to rotate, where as the drivers side turns much easier. I followed the torque sequence and specifications. Idk what could be the cause other than a defective cam tower???

Anyone ever experience this before? Any help is greatly appreciated.

I know its not PTV

Thanks,
The "ladder" that bolts over the cam HAS to be the one that came from the head in the same spot, otherwise the bores could be slightly off, causing your binding issues.
 

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Passenger side has the lowest oil pressure; you had open oil bores...

You need to look at the bearing surfaces on that side, as well as the other side, for verification, if nothing else.

I think Nick at modularheadshop.com has a way to fix wasted cam bearings, but you may not like the price, if you can find someone to do it at all.

If the cams won't turn, it's definitely time to take the heads off...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks again to everyone for their input.

I put the car back together and started it up and it ran fine. After taking it out for a test drive i begin to get tapping noise again and it sounds like the driver side cylinder head and timing chain. After idling for a minute the tapping went away, then came back, all the while the car was still running hot.

Everything, in my opinion continues to point back to timing and reason being is because I have done everything except change all the timing components. And the only reason is because they didn't look to be in bad shape and It wasn't in the budget.

I would like to know what do you all think.

Thanks,
 

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I agree with the fears of ruining the bearing surfaces on the passenger side head. It is the farthest / highest thing from the oil pump, making it the most difficult to lubricate. If the plugs were out, it will be the most affected and likely got no lubrication. I would check those bearing surfaces.

As for it running hot, that could be something as simple as an air bubble in the cooling system. With the engine running, pull the heater hose momentarily on the back of the intake manifold and let it burp all the air out. Put the hose back on when you get a steady stream of coolant. See if that fixes the temp issues, AFTER checking the bearing surfaces on the passenger side cam.

-Pete
 

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The Parts Guy
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OP, I know you don't want to hear this, but this...
if the cam doesn't turn freely, you toasted the head.
...is correct. The cam should not be difficult to turn.




I think Nick at modularheadshop.com has a way to fix wasted cam bearings, but you may not like the price, if you can find someone to do it at all.
Yep. The cam journals in the head can be bored for bearing shells. I don't know what Nick charges, but it was $60 per bore (including the price of the bearing) at my local machine shop, IIRC. I had that work done to just one of the journals in my passenger side head when I put my engine together in '07.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just wanted to thank everyone for there assistance. Got the car back together and ist running great. Turns out the driver side tensioner was bad. I replaced all the timing parts this time around and everything is working great. As for the overheating issue, there was just a lot of air in the system.

Thanks again,
 

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Just wanted to thank everyone for there assistance. Got the car back together and ist running great. Turns out the driver side tensioner was bad. I replaced all the timing parts this time around and everything is working great. As for the overheating issue, there was just a lot of air in the system.

Thanks again,
Glad to hear you got it all worked out! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No bueno

Unfortunately I am having issues again. I am hearing what i believe to be pinging under acceleration and i get a popping/crackling sound from exhaust in the upper rpm range at WOT. From the research that i have been doing it seems as if the car is now running lean because of the upgraded heads. Does anyone know what is most likely the cause of this. I have already cleaned MAF and I plan on changing the fuel filter tomorrow. I have not been able to locate any vacuum leaks and there is no CEL code. I also run 93.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
 
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