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Discussion Starter #1
I am about to do a long tube header install and there are two different schools of thought about it.

1. Loosen the motor mounts and jack the motor up a little to get to the bolts. This method may work but it seems to require luck and dexterity or rubber bones. It also seems more prone to less than stellar end results and leaks.

2. Bite the bullet and drop the k member. Proponents say the time spent in method 1 trying to reach bolts is the same as spent unbolting the suspension and getting that huge chunk of metal k member out of your way. You can easily get to everything and have confidence it is good and tight.

How heavy is the k-member? It looks real unwieldy too.

Vote and instruct me please.
 

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I would drop the K. It may take you a little while longer, but like you said, the results will likely be better. Plus if you are trying to squeeze between the motor and the K, you will be cursing the whole time of the install, but if you drop the K, it should be a relatively painless job.
 

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drop the K and don't forget to install some locking header bolts. Stage 8 ftw.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I got some nuts with the serrated bottoms and remflex graphite gaskets. Should I pony up for the Stage 8 bolts too? I don't want this to leak EVER but those things look like a pain to play with.

Chris since you are "PI headswap guru" and I just completed my PI headswap I would like your opinion on a problem. Everything fired up and felt good but I have a ticking on the passenger side. Pretty loud. Doing some research on the word ticking it seems to always be on the passenger side. Now the header to mid pipe gasket was kind of goobered up and I think there might be a leak which is given as a reason for ticking. Why would a gas leak cause ticking? Does it suck out oil causing the lash adjuster not to pump up right? My hope is with the new headers and mid pipe I will have it all tight as scrooge's purse strings and no more ticking. If it doesn't I guess that means pull the valve cover and check the lash adjusters?
 

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i would just do it with the K in place but thats just me. Ive never done long tubes but i have done shortys. Both of them are a itch but i just think removing the K is alot of work for just headers. Yopu can also yank the motor out
 

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I got some nuts with the serrated bottoms and remflex graphite gaskets. Should I pony up for the Stage 8 bolts too? I don't want this to leak EVER but those things look like a pain to play with.

Chris since you are "PI headswap guru" and I just completed my PI headswap I would like your opinion on a problem. Everything fired up and felt good but I have a ticking on the passenger side. Pretty loud. Doing some research on the word ticking it seems to always be on the passenger side. Now the header to mid pipe gasket was kind of goobered up and I think there might be a leak which is given as a reason for ticking. Why would a gas leak cause ticking? Does it suck out oil causing the lash adjuster not to pump up right? My hope is with the new headers and mid pipe I will have it all tight as scrooge's purse strings and no more ticking. If it doesn't I guess that means pull the valve cover and check the lash adjusters?
Stage 8 bolts are fairly user friendly you just bolt them on like a normal fastener and than pu the tabs on and put the clips on that way dispite heat and vibrations the fastener can not come loose.

Some exhaust leaks can be mistaken for a ticking, so it wouldn't hurt to start with that. It would help to know if the heads were new or used as far as diagnosing whether or not the lash adjusters are to blame.
 

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Also unfortunately there isn't really anything to "check" when a lash adjuster goes out, you'd have to replace all of them on whatever side you suspect is going out. Pulling the valve cover will give you a visual on whether or not there are any other problems contributing to the "tick" such as a fallen off follower or a broken valve spring, ect.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
my heads are 2002 romeos that I ported and polished and put comp xe262h cams in. Kept the stock springs and valves too. Took them to a machine shop for a valve job and they cleaned my work up a little and also decked them. I reused the followers and adjusters but they only had 61K on them.

I HOPE this exhaust takes care of it otherwise the valve covers are coming off and NEW lash adjusters are going in.
 

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Well if you do need to put in new lash adjusters make sure you bleed them down and presoak them prior to installation
 

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Chris, for a dohc swap would you go out the top, or drop the K?

I can't decide...How hard is it to unhook everything to drop the whole K?

Same connectors/wires but unhook the brakes, pop the links, unbolt the K and the strut rods?

Can I pop the harness at the main connectors and (most) everything come with the K (or engine)?

This is a little bigger job than my last swap... :)
 

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tough call... if you have access to a lift than from the bottom is your best bet. But if your planning on doing it in your driveway/garage than yank it through the top.
 

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I say go with 1. Thats how I did my headers. And use the aluminum headder gaskets. They wont leak. Percys is the name of the gaskets.
They are on SCP.
 
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