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Just purchased those cheap headers (JBA clones) from SSautochrome from...yes they might crack...but t-bird is a secondary vehicle so I can play around a little. Everything on my 95 v-8 is stock...anyway here are the instructions that I got from JBA. Could you guys look them over and give me any advice...keep in mind the only time I'm under the car is to change the oil, my mechanical experience is limited.

Part No. 1626

Installation Instructions
'94-'97 4.6L Ford Thunderbird and Mercury Cougar


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NOTE: Installation of these headers requires an adequate work space, general mechanic's tools, general mechanical "know-how," and a reasonable degree of experience. Most auto enthusiasts with these resources will have little difficulty installing these headers. However, you should carefully read these instructions before attempting to install these headers. If in doubt, consult a professional mechanic. (Better to do it now than to get stuck half-way through the installation.) This part is legal on Emission Controlled Vehicles. C.A.R.B. Exemption #D-216-___.

1. Place vehicle in a location where the floor is solid and flat, with adequate lighting. Do not attempt to work on a hot engine. Heat causes metal to expand and makes removal of fasteners difficult at best. Disconnect the battery cables from the battery. Raise the front of the vehicle to obtain adequate access to the bottom exhaust manifold flanges. Use large-base jack stands to support the vehicle. Do not rely on the jack! Block the tires to prevent the vehicle from rolling off the jack stands.

2. Spray WD-40® or some type of penetrating oil on all accessible fasteners and fittings before attempting to remove them.

3. Disconnect the exhaust system from the exhaust manifolds, (one nut is easier to access from the top with a long extension), then the disconnect exhaust pipe from catalytic converter assembly. Unplug O2 sensors and remove the converter assembly. from vehicle.

4. On the Driver’s side- Remove nuts attaching manifold to head. If the stud comes out with the nut, that’s okay as the studs need to come out also. Access to the front of the motor is very limited. This can be helped somewhat by removing the oil filter, and reaching around the front of the subframe, also by inserting a swivel-socket thru the opening around the sway bar.

5. Remove the bolt in the steering coupler at the steering rack, and slip the steering shaft out of the way.

6. Remove the manifold and remove the dipstick tube. With the manifold out of the way, clean any carbon deposits left on the head using a small wire brush or similar instrument.

7. Prepare header bolts. (Use of anti-seize is recommended on aluminum heads.)

8. Install the headers using the gaskets, and fasteners provided. To gain clearance to tighten lower center bolts, loosen motor mount to block bolts, and raise motor approximately. 1/2".

9. With the Driver side header installed, reinstall the oil filter and dipstick tube. Reconnect steering shaft. Tighten the motor mounts.

10. On the passenger side- Remove the nuts attaching the manifold to the head. Loosen EGR tube, remove manifold.

11. Clean head surface as in step 6, prepare the header bolts, and swap the EGR fitting from the factory manifold to the new header.

12. Install the header using gaskets and fasteners provided. Reconnect EGR tube.

13. Reinstall cat-converter assembly. using a small amount of hi-temp silicone on exhaust pipe, reusing stock nut on drivers side stud, and provided hardware.

14. Reconnect O2 sensors.

15. Reinstall the spark plug wires taking care not to let any wires rest against the header tubes. Reinstall the battery cable. Make sure all rubber hoses and wires are kept away from the headers. Otherwise, the heat will damage these components.

16. Recheck everything!

17. Start the engine and let it warm up. Check for leaks. Shut engine off and let it cool down. Check to make sure all fasteners are tight.

18. Periodically check and retighten the header bolts.

PARTS LIST:
(1) Driver's Side Header Assembly
(1) Passenger's Side Header Assembly
(2) header gaskets (Header to Head flange)
(3) 3/8” x 2” Collector Bolts & Nuts.
(16) 8mm x 25mm Bolt w/ lock washers
 

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1. I wouldn’t use the gaskets that are provided, get some Ford gaskets from Dan.

2. I wouldn’t use all of the hardware that’s provided. In some spots (maybe 2 or 3) their bolts fit best, but use as many of the stock studs and nuts as you can. Using new studs and nuts is best, but the ones you take off will be better than their bolts (they're not long enough)

3. I didn’t have to take the steering shaft off when I put mine in, it may give you a little more room to work but removing it isn’t necessary. On the drivers side from below the car there is a good amount of room to work as compared to the passenger’s side. If I had to do it again I still wouldn’t take the steering shaft off, one more thing to deal with and possibly go wrong.

4. Be careful when removing the EGR tube from the stock manifold. You will most likely need to use two wrenches. One to hold the fitting stationary, and the other to turn the nut that fastens the tube to that fitting. I made the mistake of using one wrench and turning the fastening nut without holding the fitting stationary. I ended up turning the fitting instead of the nut and twisting the tube since I thought the nut was turning :rolleyes: Having to remove the tube completely and straighten it out and then trying to get it to fit back in is not fun!

Aaron
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Aaron thanks for the help.

I will drink a 12oz can of courage and give it a shot this weekend and then celebrate even more after I get it on!
 

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Is there any chance you can take some pics of the headers befor you install them? I would like to see them close up as the pic on website isn't very large.
Thanks.:thumbsup:
 
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