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Discussion Starter #1
My first two mods were: Knock off cobra wheels, hid kit 8000k
And when you get tired of not really being able to see at night, you'll fix those lights :diablo:

Welcome!

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #3
uhh ok? i see fine with these hids? sooo tell me why i would need them fixed?
8000K is rather high for human eyes.

4300K would be a better choice - you're paying for light you can't see at 8000K.

RwP
 

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Exactly. 6000k is what I have in the T-bird's projectors and if ever I decide to replace them I'm going 4300k - which is what I put into the Mark VIII.

http://lumenshid.com/oe.html said:
Color Temperatures (K - Kelvins)

There is a general misconception that a higher K rating provides more light than a lower K rating with Xenon HID lights. The brightest light is actually at a pure white light without any additional colors. With Lumens Xenon HIDs, you would see pure white at 6000K. OE manufacturers choose a light at 4300K rather than 6000K. 4300K has a slight yellowish color (like the color halogen bulbs have). This is not the brightest color band for a clear night; 6000K would provide more visibility in this case. Unfortunately, pure white light does have its downfalls. Because of its intensity, white light (6000K) also refracts back at the driver the most when there are particles in the air (ie. rain, snow, and fog). A less refractive light would be more useful in these conditions; we find yellow (3000K) to be the most effective in these situations. For OE manufacturers, they try to give the medium which would be between the white and the yellow for overall driving conditions.

For HID conversions on vehicles for daily driving (especially vehicles with projectors), we recommend the colors between 4300K - 6000K. Any colors below or above this range will result in loss of light (amount of light lost will vary depending on the housing / projector). For fog light applications, we recommend 3000K for performance in rain, snow, and fog.
 

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I like the 8000k's I have in my s14. I can see better than the stockers, signs still reflect very nicely and I dig the blueish color (not too blue). I did have 6000k's when I bought the car. I prefer the 8's.

With any car... My first mod is a good alarm.

After alarm, the next major thing I do is suspension. Small mods I begin with include stereo, HID's, tint... But I always do suspension before adding power.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I like the 8000k's I have in my s14. I can see better than the stockers, signs still reflect very nicely and I dig the blueish color (not too blue). I did have 6000k's when I bought the car. I prefer the 8's.

With any car... My first mod is a good alarm.

After alarm, the next major thing I do is suspension. Small mods I begin with include stereo, HID's, tint... But I always do suspension before adding power.
Bluish. You ARE aware - oh, no, I bet you're not! - that BLUE is a BAD color for distinguishing things, right? The human eye isn't very efficient at blue.

Also, the blue rods are completely separate from the red and green rods in spectral sensitivity - but there's shades that hit both red and green (amazingly, 4300K is in the middle of the overlap ... Fancy that! Able to use 2/3 of the eye, not just 1/3, to see!)

But eh. "Looks good, don't care if I can see good" best describes folks who run 8000K lights.

RwP
 

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I thought the lower the number, the more blue it was. 10000k is like super white, correct? So I seriously would be better off with a pair of 4300k bulbs?
 

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The higher the K, the bluer and eventually purple it gets.
 

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Daylight (True white) is between 4000 and 6500K. With 5500K known as “high noon daylight.”

My headlights are 5,800K.

And yes, I'd also have to agree with the following statement.

Anything beyond 6k is straight up obnoxious
Here's a color chart for visual reference.

 

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Does anyone aim thrie headlights aftre putting in those dreaded blue lights?
3.73 gears.
 

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I would hope that they would aim their headlights but I doubt they do. Simply changing bulbs shouldn't require re-aiming the lights because they should be aimed properly to begin with.

Here's a how-to article that Porkchop wrote about how to aim the headlights if you're interested.

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=94202
 

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I have 5k and they're too blue for me. I think ANY shade of blue is stupid. As previously stated, blue is no good. Change all the light bulbs in your house to blue and tell me how much easier you can find things in the dark...
 

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I'll add that in 1996 the design of the headlights/header panel changed slightly but the 4mm socket/ratchet still applies for adjusting headlights.

And YES! Align your headlights, please! :bowdown:

There are fewer things I hate when driving down the road at night than people who blind me needlessly due to ignorance of having misaligned headlights -OR- headlights not aligned after a retrofit. Especially when driving in bad/rainy weather when it's hard enough for me to see without oncoming traffic.
 

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The chart from Trunk Monkey also applies to photography...most digital cameras will adjust for the color of light automatically, but they usually have the ability to be adjusted for special situations or color effects. KF4sign (Warren)
 

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I had 6000k HID headlights and fogs in my bird and refraction was never an issue and I could see about a mile away from my front end, oh how I miss them. But that's another upgrade on my list for my sc
 

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not to mention HID ballast's all can generate a BIT of a different color to the bulb.. I know the bulb has the color and all but I just witnessed this now that my headlights are both a shade off after I had a ballast go out... I went from a big metal box type to the thin plastic slim ballast on just one bulb. It know looks more blue than the other and I have 6000k
 

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So this could be a dumb question. I am looking to do a light upgrade to my bird. How much better can you see with HIDs than an upgraded regular bulb like a silverstar ultra?A s always , thanks for your help.
 

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So this could be a dumb question. I am looking to do a light upgrade to my bird. How much better can you see with HIDs than an upgraded regular bulb like a silverstar ultra?A s always , thanks for your help.
It depends.

If you just shove a HID bulb in and connect the ballast, a set of OSRAM SilverStar Ultras would do you better, since it matches the reflectors.

Of course, this DOES presume you've either replaced the headlights, or at least had them polished clear.

If not, DO THAT FIRST.

Make sure your headlights are clear.

Polish them and clear them up.

Did I mention, it's silly to try to boost the light output when your headlights are fogged over? :diablo:

After that, try new OEM grade bulbs (GOOD ones, not the cheapass crap Harbor Freight sells - get good OSRAM bulbs if possible, Philips also, don't buy any house brand bulbs ... Hella makes some good ones also).

Also, before you do much else, try adding a nice relay harness to beef up the current / voltage to the bulbs. They aren't cheap, but they do pay back well on how much more light you can get out of factory bulbs.

A little observed fact is that halogen bulbs get dimmer with age - most bulbs are rated as 'dead' at the 50% output level. Just putting new quality OEM halogens in will help quite a bit, and if you polish and add a relay harness - you may get the best of both worlds!

THAT said - what year is your 'Bird? If it has the 9005/9006 headlights (Gen1), then you can also go for HIR bulbs. It's what I have for low beams on my Cougar with the GM headlamps, and I can see a mile marker 1 mile down the road (i.e., if I'm passing Mile Marker 28, I can see Mile Marker 29 - or at least, something there which turns out to be MM29 when I get close enough to read it!) That's worth considering.

You can find out more about HIRs at http://hirheadlights.com/ . Do check eBay and Amazon (especially Amazon!) for alternative vendors, though.

Due to how they work, there will never be a HIR for a dual-filament bulb like the 9007 later TBirds and 91+ Cougars have.

RwP
 
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