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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Okay guys I'm at a loss for what to do.

A couple weeks ago I ran my car out of gas when I tried to start it. When I got it towed home I did not hear the fuel pump. So I replace the fuel pump and the fuel filter and tried to start it again - nothing: it'll turn over but it won't catch.

So then I replaced everything - it seems I'm flying by the seat of my pants here - and YouTube has been my only friend. So here's a list of all I've replaced; I've put in:

  1. new spark plugs and wires
  2. new coil packs
  3. idle air control valve
  4. a fuel pressure regulator
  5. I've cleaned the mass air flow sensor and the throttle body.
I'm a 56 year old, single woman and with a limited income I'm doing the best I can here.

Now, it will turn over and if I spray it with starter fluid it'll stay running for a few minutes. Sounds really good but then chokes, backfires and dies. I took the top off the Schrader valve and tested for pressure I'm not getting any. It's a little better since I put on the pressure regulator but it's still not shooting out. So either it's not getting fuel or its not getting air...

I'm at a loss and I need some help here, please, or some suggestions. I'm running out of money and patience. I take care of my 83 year-old mom and I really need to get this car going; it's all we've got. I'm thinking that I might have to flush the fuel rail but I'm not sure how to do that and I don't have a lot of high-tech equipment at my disposal. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Sounds like a faulty relay or fuse. I don't know which one or where it is but some googling or searching on this site can point you in the right direction. Are you doing this work yourself or are you paying somebody to do it? If you have no pressure at the fuel rail your fuel pump isn't working. If it's new as you say, then it sounds electrical, hence my conclusion about a fuse or bad relay.

Here is a place to start... https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.yourmechanic.com/question/fuel-pump-relay-by-rudy&ved=2ahUKEwieypO-r8XnAhUFK80KHUIqANYQFjABegQICRAI&usg=AOvVaw1ZHG1_oaPiCak0zGgbrumI
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes im doing the work myself. Ive checked the relay which is in the ccm (constant contact module) located behind the headlight on the passenger side. Checked fuses im stumped . I can hear the fuel pump cycling, because i cut a hole under my rear seat to the it
 

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Fuel filter? Under the passenger side rocker panel? May be clogged. Are you sure you don't have fuel pressure at the injector rail? Your car will not start unless there is fuel pressure. If you have fuel pressure and you have a crank but no start condition, it could be any number of things. My first suspects are the cam and crank sensors. A faulty crank sensor will cause the car not to start. The do go bad most times without any symptoms. Cam sensors are very similar. Is there a check engine light present? If so, do you have any type of code reader?
 

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Lets start at the top:

fuel pump
the fuel filter
new spark plugs and wires
new coil packs
idle air control valve
a fuel pressure regulator
cleaned the mass air flow sensor and the throttle body

Damn; that's a list of stuff. Good job doing all those yourself, but one problem with doing that is that sometimes new parts are bad out of the box.

One quick thing to look at; is the check engine light flashing as it cranks?
IIRC, it pulses in time with the crank sensor, and if you don't see that, it's a crank sensor problem.

Otherwise, The first things to check are the fuel pressure and spark plug routing.

The easy way to check the fuel pressure is to buy a cheap tire pressure guage from the parts store, which is not rated for fuel btw, and test the schrader valve on the fuel rail with it.
You will want to throw it away afterwards, because the gas will eat the rubber inside, making it useless in a couple of days, but it will work for a bit.

If you don't have at least ~25-30 PSI, it won't start.
Gas should spurt from the schrader valve when you push it with a small screwdriver,
You should see good flow if you remove the inner schrader valve and put a piece of hose from it into a quart bottle, and turn the key on to prime.
A stock fuel pump is about a half pint in 10 seconds.
If nothing goes into the bottle, you either have a large airbubble in the line, or the fuel pump isn't working.
To see if it's an air bubble, try priming multiple times, with the schrader valve open, into the bottle.
Be really careful working around the fuel system, don't try to start it while it's open like that.
Be sure to seal the fuel system back up carefully if you have anything loose, or the schrader valve out.
A nonworking fuel system is bad, but leaks are worse.

If you have good pressure and flow, let all the gas smell go away before you move on to checking spark.
Washing the engine off with a hose and waiting overnight is a good idea is you get gas everywhere.


Checking the spark plug wires is a good bet; they are tough to get right if you've never done them before.
Here's a link to the Sticky:

I would put the stock coilpacks back on if you bought ones from a parts store; their quality is low, and many have failed quickly.

The IAC you installed could be faulty; try barely pressing the gas pedal, and see if it will hit.

Also try a flooded start; press the pedal to the floor, and see if it will start. I doubt this will work, but try it anyway.

I'm sure you've already had to charge the battery, but it won't start if the voltage is below 8V.

Good Luck!
 

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Yes im doing the work myself. Ive checked the relay which is in the ccm (constant contact module) located behind the headlight on the passenger side. Checked fuses im stumped . I can hear the fuel pump cycling, because i cut a hole under my rear seat to the it
Turn the key on and listen for the fuel pump. The pump running non-stop with the key in the "on" position, accompanied by the fan running is a bad PCM. What year is the car?

Al
 

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Turn the key on and listen for the fuel pump. The pump running non-stop with the key in the "on" position, accompanied by the fan running is a bad PCM. What year is the car?

Al
As the thread is titled
Help! 1996 v8 4.6 crank no start
I'd guess it's a 96 v8.

:)
 

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Good call, lol!

Al
 

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Man oh man, and I thought I was having trouble with my 95!

Well, sounds like the problem started with something related to fuel. I'd take another look at that before buying more sensors and solenoids. Sounds like the fuel pump is doing what it should, pumping. I don't think it should cycle, which sounds like the fuel pressure regulator isn't regulating like it should. It should run for one second when first turning on the key, then stop and not turn back on until ignition (combustion). Sorry to recommend another expenditure, but I'd get a fuel pressure gauge with relief valve to at least try to rule out fuel basics first.
 

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Turn the key on and listen for the fuel pump. The pump running non-stop with the key in the "on" position, accompanied by the fan running is a bad PCM. What year is the car?

Al
one thing to try.it stumped me on mine. you think it is the computer. try the temp censer on the left front of the intake. there are two censers. one is on the right side, that sends the temp to the temp gauge. and there is the one on the left side of the intake in front, easy to get to. this one sends info. to the computer. my 97 t-bird would not start. and this was the culprit. if the computer does not get any info. from the temp censor. it will not start. the censor will not cost you much money. so taking a stab at it, will not break the bank. these cause a lot of issues. try that and let me know.
 

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A censer is what the pope waves by you to bless you; a Sensor is something that measures something.

Unplugging both or either sensor will not keep the car from starting; you're on crack.

Unplugging the one sensor will make the fan run on hi; name which one.
 

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A censer is what the pope waves by you to bless you; a Sensor is something that measures something.

Unplugging both or either sensor will not keep the car from starting; you're on crack.

Unplugging the one sensor will make the fan run on hi; name which one.
it is the sensor that runs the fan. and also sends info to the computer. it is the one on the left front of the intake. in some fords. it makes the car not run right. or other things. on the tbirds. it will ether not let it spark when you go to start. or not let the fuel pump run. just try it. easy to do. and is not expensive.
 

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I did that yesterday, just to check, before posting.

The one on the right makes the fan run on hi, the other one will keep it from going into closed loop.

I stand by my post above.
 

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craigr007 - there's not a sensor on the block that runs the fans. The ECU runs the fans. The Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, the ECT, if it's open circuit, indicates to the ECU that it can't monitor temps, and the ECU then will kick the fans on high.

The other temp sensor on all MN12s goes to the gauge only.

The THIRD temp sensor some have, is the Cold Engine Lock Out (CELO) sensor for the EATC, to keep the fans from running and blowing subfrigid air around before the motor warms up in winter, and CAN be disconnected with zero ill effects save for cold feet.

The only thing up there that could cause it to not run, is on the FRONT of the motor, and it's the crank position sensor; and that's if your car actually HAS one for the motor. A 4.6 or a SC will have a crank position sensor. But that's not a temp sensor.

RwP
 

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craigr007 - there's not a sensor on the block that runs the fans. The ECU runs the fans. The Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, the ECT, if it's open circuit, indicates to the ECU that it can't monitor temps, and the ECU then will kick the fans on high.

The other temp sensor on all MN12s goes to the gauge only.

The THIRD temp sensor some have, is the Cold Engine Lock Out (CELO) sensor for the EATC, to keep the fans from running and blowing subfrigid air around before the motor warms up in winter, and CAN be disconnected with zero ill effects save for cold feet.

The only thing up there that could cause it to not run, is on the FRONT of the motor, and it's the crank position sensor; and that's if your car actually HAS one for the motor. A 4.6 or a SC will have a crank position sensor. But that's not a temp sensor.

RwP
it will not run at all if the crank sensor is bad when you spray starting fluid in it. that is what fixed my 97 tbird when it would not start. the fuel pump would not run. this fixed mine. just try the sensor. on the left front of the intake. all of the guys on here are telling you a lot of other stuff. and telling you to not do this. hay it fixed mine. just try it. it will not take a lot of time to do it. and will cost you a lot of money. JUST TRY IT
 

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The crank sensor is nowhere near the intake, it's between the harmonic balancer and A/C compressor.

The fact that it won't run with a bad crank sensor is in fact correct... that's because the PCM won't have any basis to compute spark though - it's not related to fueling.
 

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it will not run at all if the crank sensor is bad when you spray starting fluid in it. that is what fixed my 97 tbird when it would not start. the fuel pump would not run. this fixed mine. just try the sensor. on the left front of the intake. all of the guys on here are telling you a lot of other stuff. and telling you to not do this. hay it fixed mine. just try it. it will not take a lot of time to do it. and will cost you a lot of money. JUST TRY IT
craigr007 - there's not a sensor on the block that runs the fans. The ECU runs the fans. The Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, the ECT, if it's open circuit, indicates to the ECU that it can't monitor temps, and the ECU then will kick the fans on high.

The other temp sensor on all MN12s goes to the gauge only.

The THIRD temp sensor some have, is the Cold Engine Lock Out (CELO) sensor for the EATC, to keep the fans from running and blowing subfrigid air around before the motor warms up in winter, and CAN be disconnected with zero ill effects save for cold feet.

The only thing up there that could cause it to not run, is on the FRONT of the motor, and it's the crank position sensor; and that's if your car actually HAS one for the motor. A 4.6 or a SC will have a crank position sensor. But that's not a temp sensor.

RwP
well she sed that it will try to start when she sprays starting fluid in. the temp sensor i am talking about sends info to the ECU. and runs the fans. on mine it would not let the fuel pump run. then after 2 years it would not start again. this time it had no spark. since it is not expensive for the sensor, and easy to do. i replaced the temp. sensor on the left side front again. and it ran. this sensor does a lot more than you think. i had in the beginning, i had it diagnosed buy a mechanic. and they sed it was the ECU. so i replaced it. it ran at first. then it would not start again. then i took it to other mechanic. and he sed it was the temp. sensor. replaced it and it ran. just give it a try. i went threw it, two times with mine
 

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facepalms

The one on the FRONT is NOT a temp sensor.

You're talking about the CRANK sensor.

Or just stringing words together, one of the two.

RwP
 

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He's talking about the two coolant sensors on the intake, apparently.

:)
 

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I can’t believe nobody mentioned the inertia switch yet! Open the trunk and look on the left side for a little red button. Push that button down, and then try to start the car again. Sometimes even a good sized pothole can be enough to trip them, so if you hit a big bump 15-20 seconds before the car “ran out of gas”, then that would be my first thing I would check.
 
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