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Discussion Starter #1
K guys. My blower fan just quit.

It's driving me insane not to have my flow of air blowing, stagnant air drives me loco. It's not an intermittent fail, it's an outright fail.

I checked the fusepanel in the driver's footwell and everything was fine.

I also popped out my glovebox and checked to see if the black and orange wires had gotten loose. Nope, they're still tight.

I can't get my fan to blow.

How do I know if the blowerfan itself has quit, how do I replace it-- is there another fuse I should check?

I need help ASAP because my fan is a NECESSITY for driving and 80mph with the windows down blows my crap everywhere and is noisy.

HALP PLEASE

Best,
Ghost
 

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:confused:That happened to me a while back I tought it was the blower and it turned out to be a resistor in the back of the A/C control module check those out before u buy a blowermotor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
A resistor in the AC control thing?

I have auto climate control but happen to have a spare auto climate control thingy.

I'll try changing them out and see if that fixes the problem.
 

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I can help you, go under your dash where the fuses are, on the furthest left you will see a little black box open it and put a new 30A fuse. You will then have a blower. I just learned this the hard way after having a new blower sent to me from the states!
 

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check the above noted fuse, there is also one under the hood. also check the control box and wireharness connector going to the fan itself behind the glovebox.
 

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if you need a new blower let me know, I'll ship you the one I just got.

Did you run the self-diagnostics?


"First, run the self-diagnostics (if you have ATC) = with the key in the 'run' position - and the vent position dial on Panel or Floor hold the COOL and OT (outside Temp) buttons simultaneously and then press WARM within two seconds - the display will have this little parade of dashes and then give an error code"

When mine was the fuse it was everything lit up!
 

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,why do you guys always insist on doing **** the hard way? get your little test light, or meter out unplug the blower and see if you have power, if so then its the blower if not backtrack
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Okay... -188* E
OUTSIDE TEMP

Does this mean fuse???

I can help you, go under your dash where the fuses are, on the furthest left you will see a little black box open it and put a new 30A fuse. You will then have a blower. I just learned this the hard way after having a new blower sent to me from the states!
I'm not really sure what you mean here. Is there a fusebox OTHER than the primary fusebox under the black coverpanel??

I'm gonna go check again...

Okay, back from checking.

The only black box I see is the primary fusebox and the only 30A fuse is the Wipers. Are you saying I should replace the HEGO or A/C fuses? I pulled both and they looked fine... No fuses appear to be blown. I shined a light through all of them and they looked fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, I found that fuse and checked it. It was fine and there was clearly power running through it. I had the key on engine off when I was screwing with the fuse box to see if the fan would go on. When I was reinserting the 30A fuse I saw a few teeny arcs of electricity so there's definitely juice flowing.
And there's juice going to the fan...

There's a black block with a heatsink on it directly behind the glovebox, and it has the orange and black wire that runs to the fan itself. I also burned my damn hand on that *@%#ing heatsink.

There's definitely power going there.

I suppose this means the problem is the blowerfan?
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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heh, I used a multimeter to check and I still had power to the fan, course it was a piece of **** multimeter and I just checked again it thinks everything has power even a piece of metal lying around! So I say spend a little more then 10 dollars on a multimeter ;)
 

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Harbor Freight has meters and test lights for a few bucks, they can save you a lot of headaches. They are more than enough for this type of work. Like Vic said, You could have clipped the light to the - end of the battery and touched the fan harness with the A/C set to max.

If you have auto temp control though, there is a module that controls power to the fan I believe. You may see some voltage there but if the module is bad it will die under load. There is a test in the service manual to rule out the module.

The fan comes out from behind the glovebox (on my 91 at least). It is a bit of a pita to get out, then you have to take the wheel off, its held in place with a clip that has to be pried off.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I'm not sure where I'mma find a multimeter and test light at 10 at night without embarking on a quest for em..

@tbird guy

I have the Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) and I'm wondering if the ATC box is that big black thing with the heat sinks on it, or if all the ATC goodness is kept inside the ATC headunit.
 

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I'm not sure where I'mma find a multimeter and test light at 10 at night without embarking on a quest for em..

@tbird guy

I have the Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) and I'm wondering if the ATC box is that big black thing with the heat sinks on it, or if all the ATC goodness is kept inside the ATC headunit.
The heatsink in the fan box is a power transistor (like a remote amp for a subwoofer) and runs the fan. It is controlled by the headunit. THere are 5 wires, 2 for the fan, 1 from the headunit, one to the battery and one to ground. The head unit sends a PWM (pulse width modulated) control signal to that thing and then it can switch high current to run the fan.

It is the exact same part as an explorer, and they do crap out. If yours works I suggest taking it out and cleaning it with electronics cleaner. The dirt and crap in there eventually either shorts them out or makes it overheat. If it craps out it will set you back about $100 bucks.
 

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I'm not sure where I'mma find a multimeter and test light at 10 at night without embarking on a quest for em..
In a jam, you can use one of the bulbs in the third taillight, and a piece of wire for a test light. (Seriously)

The wires will straighten out on the base of the bulb, and you can attach wire to them. :) Nothing motivates me like the middle of nowhere... I don't need speaker wires if the car wont run... :)


On the blower issue, A multimeter can lie on a circuit like this, because you may very well have voltage there with a high-impedance multimeter, and it still not run a low-impedance 10A motor... :)

You have to measure the voltage across the motor while it's trying to run, to know for sure. If you have 12V, and the motor isn't moving, the motor has a problem. If you have 2V and the box is hot as fire, and it's not moving, the motor is probably bad.

With the box being hot, either the box or the motor is bad; if the box will run a 2A tail light bulb, it should work for the motor. If the box is bad, it will probably still get hot without being hooked to the motor.

Motors fry for a lot of reasons, but mostly hours of use and temperature... say you're in CA? :)

Try disconnecting the motor, hook up a light bulb you have spare, taillight, headlight, whatever; something that will draw some power. If the light lights brightly when the fan should be on, the box is likely to be good.

You could try hitting the motor terminals (only!) with a set of wires (jumper cables will work, IF you're insane) to the battery, and see if it moves. (Don't try this at home, kids!) If you do this, at least say "Hey, Y'all watch this!" first, OK? :)


A smart guy hooks up the wires to the motor terminals (only!), and the positive wire to the batt, then touches the ground wire somewhere away from the fuel lines and battery...or takes the blower motor out and has it tested. :D
 

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Put 12v directly to the fan. If it comes on, its not the fan, if it doesn't, it is. Basically the same thing as using a test light or a multimeter which is a DEFINITE problem shooting procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Allright, I'll try using a 912 bulb to test the module quickly before I go and bother with pulling a blower motor. Oh well, I have a list of stuff:

Currently:
Upper Dash screw-mount clip (above instrument cluster)
94-96 Black Gauge Surround thing (with vent still attached)
Blower fan + Controller Module
Passenger side b-pillar plastic seatbelt trim pieces
MK VIII double-visors (grey).

You guys need anything?!
 
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