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Discussion Starter #1
I am trying to change out my front sway bar end links, have both nuts removed, amd they will not budge. Tried hammering on the only place easily accessable, the stud going through the spindle...now I have a stud with ruined threads, and the old end link is still stuck.
 

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I am trying to change out my front sway bar end links, have both nuts removed, amd they will not budge. Tried hammering on the only place easily accessable, the stud going through the spindle...now I have a stud with ruined threads, and the old end link is still stuck.
PB it good, let it soak for an hour, go back and PB it again, let it soak another hour.

Then whack on it.

Too late to put the nut back on (which is what you're supposed to do, let the nut also take the impact and protect the threads).

If that doesn't work, then you may need to grab a set of spindles and swap them ...

RwP
 

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I changed mine last week but i was able to break the top bolt through with a few swings of a 2&1/2 lb hammer. I don't think a regular framing hammer has enough heft to get it done. Since yours are ruined anyway you can really go to town on them. A torch on the threads wouldn't hurt either as long as you keep it away from the brakes. I used a big pry bar to get the bottom bolt out. You might try a big c clamp to push it through as well.

The good thing is that you could drive the car with them like they are now if you have too. It just won't corner very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I got the old one out with a ball joint separator....put the new one in the spindle cannot get the other end into the sway bar, it is like the link is too long, but that is not the case, it is exactly the same size as the old one....and now I can't get the new one out of the spindle side....i don't want to damage it
 

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Make sure both front tires are off the ground. If not then there will be load on the suspension from the other side pushing the sway bar up on the side you're working on.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
LOL @ the bomb...i did consider that one, for a bit.

I had one wheel on a ramp, got both in the air and all was good. New links are on, however the rattle is still there, unchanged.....
 

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EvilMooseofDoom, your ride is da bomb, yo!
 

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Hit the side of the spindle with a hammer in the area where the end link stud goes through and it'll fall rite out! Ull see a flat area on the side of spindle (hit there) That's how I do mine when I change em.. Works everytime!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I used a pickle fork. It was a royal PITA so make sure you use good parts because if you have to do it again, well you get the idea.
yeah, pickle fok worked great.... hit the other stud with a hammer and it went flying out.

I used genuine Ford parts from the dealer....I learned my lesson, especially with suspension pieces, go factory, or don't bother.
 

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Make sure both front tires are off the ground. If not then there will be load on the suspension from the other side pushing the sway bar up on the side you're working on.
I've found the opposite to work for me. Take a tire off, PBlaster, load the suspension slightly with a jack,and they should come out with a blow of a hammer. Mine came out very easy like that....... twice.
 

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yeah, pickle fok worked great.... hit the other stud with a hammer and it went flying out.

I used genuine Ford parts from the dealer....I learned my lesson, especially with suspension pieces, go factory, or don't bother.
I also did my front end links this weekend. i went with the Deeza links. I had read on other forums (via google) that they are using a unique, patented design for the ball joint. I also like the idea of the "bent" link rather than the straight link. I would think that this design would put less stress on the ball joint...but I am by no means an engineer!

I will give them a shot, they seem very well built upon inspection. We shall see.

Comparison pic:

 

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Interesting...has anybody ever actually had a ball joint on a sway bar link fail?
My father was killed by one when it failed.


He got better, however.
 

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Well, I wouldn't say actually fail to the extent of breaking into pieces but I think the design had to do with overall integrity. I mean, my old joints just flopped around, hopefully these will last a bit longer and stay "tight."

Here is what the website says:

http://www.deezachassis.com/parts_sl.asp



But again....:zdunno:
 

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I just ordered the Deeza's from Rock Auto. They are 18.48 ea. It said they only had 18 left when I ordered them.

Moog's were close to $50ea. :eek:
 
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