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I think it helped me by putting a stand under the lower control arm and letting a little of the weight back down on the stand. The top stud came out with a couple hammer strikes. The bottom one is tougher because there is no where accessable to hammer it. So either one of those pry forks or do what I did.

Clamp a fairly large set of vice grips onto the stud on the outer side right in between the "ball" and the sway bar. Locking the pliers down real tight should wedge them real solid in between the two parts you want separated. Then hammer the side of the vice grips (towards the outside of car, of course) a couple times and that stud should pop out.

Don't know how good this is for your pliers, but if they are name brand and you don't have to beat them too hard, they should survive.
 

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I also did my front end links this weekend. i went with the Deeza links. I had read on other forums (via google) that they are using a unique, patented design for the ball joint. I also like the idea of the "bent" link rather than the straight link. I would think that this design would put less stress on the ball joint...but I am by no means an engineer!

I will give them a shot, they seem very well built upon inspection. We shall see.

Comparison pic:

I ordered two at Amazon, Deeza # FO-L643 .... price was good enough that I'll give them a try! ;)



Funny, my '92 Sport with 140+K miles has originals that are still tight enough that they don't rattle, but my '95 with 70K miles has a constantly rattling left front link? I'll put these on the '95 and save the tighter right one as a spare.

Edit 06-10-11

The two Deeza # FO-L643 links I ordered from Amazon came yesterday finally and I installed them tonigt after it cooled off. They are exactly as appear in the pic above, when I ordered them they had two left at $10.31 each and qualified for free shipping on orders over $25. I got a case for my Casio Ravine too. They went to $22.75 as soon as I completed my order .... guess I got lucky with old stock? I'm happy, no clunk in the '95 now! :)

Only down side is mine did NOT have flats for a wrech nor did they have socket tip ball studs (maybe these are "pre-socket tip" versions?). The nuts provided were flanged steel self lock nuts and I could not get the nuts to tighten, so I slipped the original nuts that came off the car onto the new studs and the thread was perfect.

I tightened them good, and gave thought to maybe removing them and reinstalling the self locking nuts ..... but as tight as they were though what a chore they be to remove maybe later if need be ..... so I just left the original nuts in place.

Did remove a bolt and swing the brake caliper up when inserting the upper stud too. Just lightly compress pads, swing up, drop old out and slip new in.

:)
 

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I also did my front end links this weekend. i went with the Deeza links. I had read on other forums (via google) that they are using a unique, patented design for the ball joint. I also like the idea of the "bent" link rather than the straight link. I would think that this design would put less stress on the ball joint...but I am by no means an engineer!

I will give them a shot, they seem very well built upon inspection. We shall see.

Comparison pic:

Same design as the duralast ones I got from Autozone last month, except that the Duralast have grease fittings. Lifetime warranty on them. Just got 2 for the rear with lifetime warranties too. I love the fact that you can grease these too! :D
 

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I got Raybestos ones that look like the stock (bent) ones. I had the straight ones and they started ratteling after 3 months....... the raybestos ones have been in a little over a year adn all is well still.
 

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Oh snap I am doing these too. The 96 needs a new set!
 

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I got Raybestos ones that look like the stock (bent) ones. I had the straight ones and they started ratteling after 3 months....... the raybestos ones have been in a little over a year adn all is well still.
So, the factory/stock ends were "bent"? The links I took off my car I presumed were factory (straight links). I thought when I looked on Rockauto all the endlinks pictured were straight...guess I thought wrong!

Same design as the duralast ones I got from Autozone last month, except that the Duralast have grease fittings. Lifetime warranty on them. Just got 2 for the rear with lifetime warranties too. I love the fact that you can grease these too! :D
I do like the idea of grease fittings. I'll just hope the Deeza boots hold up! :)

Edit 06-10-11

The two Deeza # FO-L643 links I ordered from Amazon came yesterday finally and I installed them tonigt after it cooled off.

Only down side is mine did NOT have flats for a wrech nor did they have socket tip ball studs (maybe these are "pre-socket tip" versions?). The nuts provided were flanged steel self lock nuts and I could not get the nuts to tighten, so I slipped the original nuts that came off the car onto the new studs and the thread was perfect.

I tightened them good, and gave thought to maybe removing them and reinstalling the self locking nuts ..... but as tight as they were though what a chore they be to remove maybe later if need be ..... so I just left the original nuts in place.
I had the same issue. I do prefer to use the new hardware so what I did was use the old nut to initially tighten the endlink and "seat" the stud into the spindle/swaybar. Once "seated" I remove the old nut and replace with the new self lock one.
 

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Interesting..... my 96 was factory bent ones. Car's been in my family since day 1 and I was the only one other than the dealership to work on that car and they were never replaced till I did them at ~ 150K.
Mine were the straight ones, and I know they were the originals! :)

Joe
 

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I had the same issue. I do prefer to use the new hardware so what I did was use the old nut to initially tighten the endlink and "seat" the stud into the spindle/swaybar. Once "seated" I remove the old nut and replace with the new self lock one.
I do to where it's criticle, but those factory nuts are planty strong. I just tightened them like they were. Mine still had some resistance, just not near like those flanged locking nuts.

The factory links on both my "92 and '95 T-Bird were like your's ... straight. My Deezas were also like yours. I was afraid to mention the $10.31 price each on last two when I found them at Amazon after seeing your post ...
... afraid I'ld jinx the deal ... :D haha :D

I thank you for the nudge to look them up that night I got from your post. If they last a couple years they owe me nothing.

No grease fittings means no one pushing dirt in or ballooning seals with a grease gun.
 

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I am trying to change out my front sway bar end links, have both nuts removed, amd they will not budge. Tried hammering on the only place easily accessable, the stud going through the spindle...now I have a stud with ruined threads, and the old end link is still stuck.
Mine were stuck for awhile to but i just used a floor jack on the lower control arm up and down, with a couple wacks of a hammer and boom! flew off like a bat outta hell lol,...i bought Moogs from rock auto... hopefully they hold on.



Mine were the straight ones, and I know they were the originals! :)

Joe
Mine were factory and they were straight too, the moogs i bought from rockauto were bent.
 

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I just ordered the Deeza's from Rock Auto. They are 18.48 ea. It said they only had 18 left when I ordered them.

Moog's were close to $50ea. :eek:
They are sold out now.
 

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Just updating .... :)

As detailed in earlier posts, I ordered two Deeza # FO-L643 at Amazon back on 05-30-11 and they showed up a few days later and I installed them 06-10-11. Since then, we've used the '95 T-Bird a lot and while I know it riodes the same, it feels so much better not hearing that "clunk". So far, maybe 1000 miles we've used it since, still tight.

Later ........ ;)
 

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Guys, I know this thread is OLD, but I just looked it up to see how to get stubborn ones loose.
Last front ones I had done evedentally the shop put 1 straight one in and one bent one-kinda stupid!

I've got some cheap replacements from Ebay that are bent AND have grease fittings on them-I paid about 12.00 shipped and they look good!

I'm wondering IF there is a difference between SPORT models, v6s, non-sports and different years with the straight verses bent ones??

Mine are stuck in the sway bar itself-the other ends came loose great.....I'm headed back out to beat on them some more......

Great suggestions btw for removal!!
 

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Nope. No difference.

Good luck on lifespan with those ebay specials...

BTW these works wonders getting them out of the sway bar.

 

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8 years ago at WAY under 100k miles the originals failed, I had VERY EXPENSIVE MOOG units installed with grease fittings.
I put a shot of grease in them every other oil change.
THEY failed in around 25k miles.
ALL our driving is on smooth roads, (no off-roading)
I had some cheap ones installed about 25k ago and they failed a while ago.
I can't do much worse than the Ebay cheapos the way I figure-and THEY even have grease fittings!!
I'm not expecting much from $12.00 parts, but did with the more expensive ones and was very disapointed.
Rears aren't much better either!!
 

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Interesting you mention the failure of the Moogs. Recently I've been seeing a few similar reports creeping up with regards to their parts.

Fortunately (for me) I've used TRW/Motorcraft parts only on the suspension.
 
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