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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Sorry to start a new thread, but I need some serious help. First, some history on this car. It has great compression, uses very little oil and has great power (I should have posted some pics of the tire strips to give you an idea, lol).

I've had this car about 3 years. It ran fine first 6 months, started acting up. First thing, would not fast idle, it always idled about 600 rpm. I lived with it. Then after awhile, it started running really rough, then died and wouldn't start. A retired Ford Master Mechanic looked at it for me, said MAF was bad. I bought a new one from Advanced for around $100. It ran good for about 20 min, then stalled. I brought it to the Ford Dealership and they had three laptops under the hood and changing all kinds of stuff; they finally gave up and said ECM. I bought a used ECM for $50 and ALL PROBLEMS SOLVED. It evened idles correctly and I was thrilled.

That lasted about 6 months, then it wouldn't idle correctly anymore - only about 600 rpm again. I been living with it like that again for the past YEAR. Lately it left us stuck a couple times - this acts different than first time. You try to push the accelerator and it just quits, but if you let up, it usually will keep going. That's when I did the PI Intake swap and replaced a bunch of parts with new ones. The problem still exists after all that mess!

Daniela thinks fuel filter. I put a second brand new TPS and a new IAC valve today. It idled up to 1000, then 800, then kind of floated around 750-800 rpm. It was making a weird wooooooof sound from the IAC tube. That lasted about 2 minutes, then it went back down to about 500 rpm (it idles about 500 since the PI intake swap).

My only code is P0443 the evap canister circuit, but I can't trust this car like this. I will try a new fuel filter, but when it runs good, it screams. I can feel the difference from the old intake to the new PI - what a nice improvement. I had some throttle response problems at first, turned out to be sucking air around the MAF sensor - I tightened it up and that went away.

When should I check for next? Should I get another ECM? Please give me any advice because I am running out of options!

What is on this engine:
1) 2003 CV PI Intake & Gaskets
2) 1997 Marquis Fuel Rail & New O-Rings
3) 1996 'Bird Throttle Body & Upper Plenum
4) 1996 'Bird EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) (untested)
5) 1996 'Bird EGR Valve (tested good)
6) 1996 'Bird EGR Tube (tested good)
7) New 1995 'Bird MAF Sensor
8) New BWD Black Plastic DPFE Sensor
9) New BWD IAC Valve
10) New BWD TPS
11) New 180* Thermostat
12) New ECT Sensor
13) New Temp Gauge Sending Unit

If I have to get another ECM, I would love to re-program it first! Maybe some of you guys can help point me in the right direction there as well.....
 

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FYI, stock idle speed is 550 RPM in drive.

Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? It'd be nice to know what fuel pressure you are seeing while driving.

Also, you said in your other thread you were using a Mustang air intake tube. I'm wondering if it is possible that the mismatch between the tube and MAF housing is somehow skewing the MAF reading. It's a little out there, but you never know. Have you tried unplugging the MAF and seeing how it runs? If it gets better, at least you know to look somewhere in the air intake stream.

94/95 ECMs suck BTW. I'd recommend swapping to a 96/97, but you don't seem to be overly excited about wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
FYI, stock idle speed is 550 RPM in drive.

Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? It'd be nice to know what fuel pressure you are seeing while driving.

Also, you said in your other thread you were using a Mustang air intake tube. I'm wondering if it is possible that the mismatch between the tube and MAF housing is somehow skewing the MAF reading. It's a little out there, but you never know. Have you tried unplugging the MAF and seeing how it runs? If it gets better, at least you know to look somewhere in the air intake stream.

94/95 ECMs suck BTW. I'd recommend swapping to a 96/97, but you don't seem to be overly excited about wiring.
Ok, I'll check the pressure tomorrow morning. Wiring doesn't bother me, I've been doing it my whole life - I just like to complain about it lol! So you're saying a 96/97 is better? What else has to be done to make it work? Knock sensors? I know where I can get a 96 close by. Since I've already replaced the 95 puter with another 95 with same catch code and I'm back to where I started, I'm ready to upgrade!

Oh, and since I'm using a stock MAF, I have a 96 tube I'll put on it and save the Stang tube for when I get an 80mm maf and a nice program for the ECM. You're right, it is a reach to be the tube, because remember, it was acting up before I did all this conversion and I was praying the fault would get replaced somewhere in this mess!

BTW, I know you're gonna scold me for this, but I got sick of the stalling and bent the little tab on the stop screw until it idles about 750. I'll fix it right when I figure out the major problem!

Thank you!
 

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To switch over you need the computer, computer harness, and engine harness. You'll have to wire in the rear oxygen sensors and interface the newer harness with your dash. No knock sensors are used. I'm not saying this will fix your problem, just saying this will get you to a stable computer platform.
 

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2V 97s don't use knock sensors

BTW, once you get this involved in changing things left and right, you need to look into options to datalog the pcm, because that gives a definitive picture as to what is going on, IE: a faulty maf/TPS/or O2s would be very easy to recognize on a datalog
 

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Discussion Starter #6
2V 97s don't use knock sensors

BTW, once you get this involved in changing things left and right, you need to look into options to datalog the pcm, because that gives a definitive picture as to what is going on, IE: a faulty maf/TPS/or O2s would be very easy to recognize on a datalog
Yeh, my boss has a nice scanner that with monitor / datalog, but he broke it last week and hasn't fixed it yet - go figure! Anyways, I will definately do that when he gets it fixed (I'll probably be the one fixing it anyways).

What's weird is how the new IAC made a difference for like 2 minutes with the weird noise. I'm almost positive its in the ECM.....again. *sigh*
 

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If you replaced the ECU(ECM) and your problems completely dissappeared for 6 months and just now returned, I'd be taking a close look at a shorted solinoid in somewhere in the system, EVAP and EGR control solinoids would be my first stop, but that is my best guess for a repeated failure.
I didn't read if when your engine stalled that it would restart, so I am assuming it lost the computer again, could be anything without more drivability information, not just parts changes.
 

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Just for the record that code seems really familiar to me and by my account its the first job I failed at repairing myself when I first got my Thunderbird, and also my first experience with the dealer not being able to find a part for me to buy until they run $300 in tests..... I do however remember making a thread and getting different names for the sensor, after I ended up paying someone to replace the solenoid for me, even though the solenoid was probably not bad, but the code makes you think so. It was a hard lesson to learn, but this is where TCCoA comes in for us. Anyway a massively old post to consider for the code you have

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NO NO NO NO NO NO!!!

I threw that same code a long time ago guys..... Here is the fix... Listen to the Great Obucina.. here is the info...

You are going to need the Evap Control Valve $38, and the Evap Sensor $16 bucks, it was a 15 minute job, literally.... i took out the fender well and had everything out in minutes.... if anyone else has to do this, here are the part numbers just for future reference.....

Evap Control Valve: E6ZZ-9C915-A
Evap Sensor: F57Z-14A606-BA

If your hoses are cracked, Replace them, after you do this, reset your computer (pull fuse) and then your code should be all gone, Keep it Simple..If you car has no fenderwell, put one in there, this is where all the electronics for the evap are, Im sure water and debris flying up there aren't the cause, but it doesnt help any...
I know you have bigger issues right now, but that $15 sensor failing was the turning point where I decided letting mechanics do things for trouble codes is total BS since I could have bought all the parts around 8 times before it cost less for a shop to do the 'work'.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fuel Pressure

master486 said:
Also, you said in your other thread you were using a Mustang air intake tube. I'm wondering if it is possible that the mismatch between the tube and MAF housing is somehow skewing the MAF reading. It's a little out there, but you never know. Have you tried unplugging the MAF and seeing how it runs? If it gets better, at least you know to look somewhere in the air intake stream.
I tried the 96 'Bird intake tube, it didn't change a thing.

master486 said:
Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? It'd be nice to know what fuel pressure you are seeing while driving.
I tested the fuel pressure:

With Key On Engine Off, it was about 36 psi. Alldata calls for 35-45
With Key On Engine Running Idleing it runs 30-33 psi. Alldata calls for 30-40
With Key On Engine Running Revving it runs 28-40 psi.
With Key On Engine Running Under Load, it runs 34-36 psi.

So, it looks like the pressure is right in where it's supposed to be.

It acted up this morning again on the way to the shop. It seems the way to get it out of it is to slip it in neutral and feather the throttle until you get it to rev freely, then put it back in drive and continue on, it drives normal. Does that give you an idea what might be wrong?
 

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It acted up this morning again on the way to the shop. It seems the way to get it out of it is to slip it in neutral and feather the throttle until you get it to rev freely, then put it back in drive and continue on, it drives normal. Does that give you an idea what might be wrong?
Did you try running it without the MAF plugged in?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, I give credit where credit is due and here is the deal. I replaced all those vacuum lines that go down to the charcoal canister (the little solenoid under the fender was just hanging there, both vac lines were trashed), cleared the code but the code comes back. I guess the solenoid itself is bad.

As for the weird behaviors, even though the fuel pressures were good, I put it on the lift and pulled the fuel filter. It was totally plugged - the gas that poured out of it was almost black.

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!

I appreciate all your help, and my little lady turned out to be right all along, she had said fuel filter several times and she is just basking in her glory... :rofl: :thumbsup:

Master486, the MAF is brand new, it was like $100, but I understand that doesn't mean guaranteed good. The new IAC valve I put on moans like a cow giving birth so I put the old one back on - it seems to work fine (oh, and I bent the tab back and reset the base idle BTW). Somewhere on this forum I read someone else had a problem with the IAC moaning like crazy; I'll have to search for that thread.
 

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vacuum lines, once again huh.......they're like a serial killer that no one believes exists and it just keeps on killing...lol...now just gotta replace the components

as for the rest, I've said it time and time again....pro-active maintenance is key, instead of waiting for things to fail
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Lean?

vacuum lines, once again huh.......they're like a serial killer that no one believes exists and it just keeps on killing...lol...now just gotta replace the components

as for the rest, I've said it time and time again....pro-active maintenance is key, instead of waiting for things to fail
Oh, I KNOW they exist. My engine runs extremely lean which makes it tend to run hot and I hear slight pinging sometimes with cheap gas. When I pull the plugs, they're always very light tan to white. I'm sure these vacuum leaks I keep finding contribute to that problem, too, right?

Well, I honestly believe I have ALL the vacuum leaks fixed. The only possible place I could be sucking air now is through a tired motor (through PCV) or through some vacuum device off the distribution block on the firewall. Off the upper plenum I have the little port plugged, one medium port going to the red/green vac lines, one going to pcv, the big iac to intake tube, the other big going to driver's valve cover and that's it I believe! Am I missing anything?

Why this lean condition? O2 sensors maybe?

Oh, I installed the Mark VIII fan today. What a monster! I've already picked two small children and a Camaro out of the radiator :rofl:
 
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