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Discussion Starter #1
Car: 1986 Thunderbird 5.0 Aod speed density

Mods: Edelbrock upper and lower intake
65mm prof. Products throttle body
Sve cold air intake
Sve under drive pulleys
3g alternator upgrade
4 gauge power and ground wires
Bbk shorty headers, catless, flowmaster 44s
A.c. delete
Smog delete
Charcoal canister delete
Egr, tab, and tad deletes
Mkvii trans
Driveshaft shortened 1"
Msd distributor, cap, rotor, and coil
Ford racing spark plug wires

New parts: Iac, act, ect, brake booster, master cyl., distributor, cap and rotor, cyl 1 injector, water pump, fuel filter, valve covers, belt.

Codes: 84 and 85.

Problem: the car likes to stall when cold or coming to a stop. It's stalls worse when it is cold. Recently I repinned and wired the act and seems to be a lot better. While doing so I figured out that with the act unplugged the car does not stall. It will idle at 1100 rpm in park and 800 in gear. With the act plugged in it will idle at 900-1000rpm in park and 600 in gear, but for about 10 seconds. After that it will chug to 400, then 800, down to 100 - 200, then back up and settle at 600 for about 10 more seconds and repeats the process. I cannot figure this out for the life of me. It's basically boiled down to ecu. Any help or advice appreciated.

Thanks, Will.







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The codes you are getting are for the EGR and Charcoal canister, both of which you said you deleted. Given that you deleted them, and are getting codes for them, I'm assuming that you didn't get a tune, or at the very least didn't tell your tuner about all your modifications, so I would do that first since changing the intake manifold will most definitely throw a speed density system off enough to cause stalling and drivability issues.
 

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Literally just read tweecer vs qh. Going qh lol.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Often, you can find the QH module used on eBay. I bought mine there with an ECU I flipped for $120.
If it's an older QH module with a soldered down battery pack, QH customer service is good and they'll update your board if you mail it back to them (at least they did for me).
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=moates+quarterhorse&_sop=15

eBay is also running a 10% cashback (in the form of eBay bucks which you can spend in Jan) and if you don't need it now, you might want to wait until there's a 20% off deal.

Theres one on sale for $219 shipped - 10% ebay Bucks and 2% from eBates.com

Finally, you'll need the binary editor SW & the definition for your ECU's strategy
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Often, you can find the QH module used on eBay. I bought mine there with an ECU I flipped for $120.
If it's an older QH module with a soldered down battery pack, QH customer service is good and they'll update your board if you mail it back to them (at least they did for me).
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=moates+quarterhorse&_sop=15

eBay is also running a 10% cashback (in the form of eBay bucks which you can spend in Jan) and if you don't need it now, you might want to wait until there's a 20% off deal.

Theres one on sale for $219 shipped - 10% ebay Bucks and 2% from eBates.com

Finally, you'll need the binary editor SW & the definition for your ECU's strategy
I'll be getting the eec analyzer and binary editor with dongle. I'll be doing a lot of research and learning up until I get this all and set up. Is the definition the ecu code on the box? Ex. A9L..etc.

So say I have the hardware installed, software installed and connected to computer. Do I just boot the program and tune or will I need to copy the ecu? New to this trying to do it right. Like I said I'll be doing a lot of reading an youtubing.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
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