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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
vacume line is on the regulator
 

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What rancher is saying is, adjust the FPR so that your fuel pressure at the rail is between 40 and 42 PSI at idle with the vacuum line disconnected and plugged. Then reconnect it and get a chip burned man. Even if you don't get a dyno tune, at least call one of the major tuners and describe your configuration so they can get you closer than where you are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
du i did get a chip burned. unless your saying that i need another reburn on my current chip.

what a pain....

so what ive gather'd here, .....i need a tune, wideband o2's higher fuel pressure and a reburn....correct.
 

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I didn't know you were running a custom chip. I would say, get your FPR dialed in and see how it runs. If it's not a LOT better, call the guys who did your chip and explain the situation.

Do you ever get the CEL?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
24/7. it will stay off for about 5-7 seconds on a start up and then come on....
 

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Have you checked to see what codes it's throwing?
 

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Josh_Keady said:
I didn't know you were running a custom chip. I would say, get your FPR dialed in and see how it runs. If it's not a LOT better, call the guys who did your chip and explain the situation.

Do you ever get the CEL?
regardless of having a chip. Nothing does it like a good ole dyno tune. A tuner can only GUESS what A/F to dial in with a mail order tune. I've seen people melt pistons mmmkay. Just be careful. I'm still on a mail order tune and I was at the specific fuel pressure and on a prolonged WOT interstate run I got my headers glowing red, which indicates a lean mixture = melting pistons if you're not too careful, luckily I didnt run it any longer. I pushed the FP up, but that only hides the problem. I'm now running really rich down low. Only a dyno tune can fix this correctly. But Im waiting to get the M112 SC put on first.
-Thomas
 

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I realize that it won't be optimal without getting it on the rollers, but you should be able to get it safe to drive around a little and I'm kinda trying to figure out if he's got more problems than just the tune. It's a beyotch to trailer the car all the way to the dyno to tune it, only to find out that you've got a bad sensor or a wiring problem.

That said, 4.3Lcougar, have you looked at the codes it's throwing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Josh_Keady said:
I realize that it won't be optimal without getting it on the rollers, but you should be able to get it safe to drive around a little and I'm kinda trying to figure out if he's got more problems than just the tune. It's a beyotch to trailer the car all the way to the dyno to tune it, only to find out that you've got a bad sensor or a wiring problem.

That said, 4.3Lcougar, have you looked at the codes it's throwing?

its hard to read codes only because its OBD1. but i did just get a ebay code reader. so ill try to do that, but i dont feel like that should be a solid source of code info....i can pretty much guess that it will be o2 sensors because of the non-baffled valvecovers i have. (which have been built and corrected).
 

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4.3Lcougar said:
its hard to read codes only because its OBD1. but i did just get a ebay code reader. so ill try to do that, but i dont feel like that should be a solid source of code info....i can pretty much guess that it will be o2 sensors because of the non-baffled valvecovers i have. (which have been built and corrected).
But are arent certain are you. No. Get the codes read. And also, if you dont have a tune for the engine, the codes it throws can be pertaining to that. ie: lean mixture indicated, rich mixture indicated, EGR flow insufficient (cams can do this)

Driving an untuned car to the dyno is not dangerous if you keep your foot off the pedal. In fact, my buddy Joe drove his ported NPI heads, PI intake and cams Cougar from Iowa to Kansas City for a tune, getting 32mpg the whole way. Its the WOT and higher RPM tuning that usually is the dangerous aspect of an untuned car, which is what you're modifying the car for anyway. So get it tuned :)

-Thomas
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
_95badbird said:
thank you for reminding me again, why I went the carbed route.:eek:

well, thanks for reminding me i hate this pain in the butt swap....:tongue:
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
well, i pulled the codes which i think i did right. i had 4 three digit codes. i dont remember them off the top of my head. WE HAVE 3-digit codes in a 94 cougar right.?

i believe that the two of them are EGR related codes (i deleted the EGR system on the car), the other is lean/rich mixture at the ACT, and the last one say hard fault present.

so, seeing on how i do not have a EGR tranducer and other related parts in the car, how can i clear these codes permantly. i thought that i specified the egr delete when i sent my computer in for a burn. The codes are basicilly saying that it cannot read any voltage at the EGR.

any thoughts???
 

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You will never get the code to turn off on an OBDI car. The same thing happens with mine. But when you told them you had EGR deleted, they just took out the tables for the flow of it, so the computer doesnt adjust anything, it still senses nothing there though. That unfortunately will never change.
-Thomas
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Thomas said:
You will never get the code to turn off on an OBDI car. The same thing happens with mine. But when you told them you had EGR deleted, they just took out the tables for the flow of it, so the computer doesnt adjust anything, it still senses nothing there though. That unfortunately will never change.
-Thomas

huh, well that is unfortunate! hopefully when i find a tuning shop some of the other issues can be cleared.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
This morning i had a appointment with performance auto& air for a dianostics test. the ended up doing a pin test on the ecu and a fuel pressure test and a initial smog to check the o2 sensors and Co2 out the exhaust. everything passed with flying colors except for, a wrong PCV set up and a air leak from my intake tube( apparently having a PCV on the splitport was robbing the air from the intake tube and initally robbing the air i was supposed to be getting in the manifold . (i just threw a K&N breather on the valvecover)..., timing is correct and with the recommendations from the shop forman, i corrected these issues when i got home and all issues are a thing of the past....no longer have a hesitation, throttle responce is excellent and for the first time since the build i was actually able to feel the full capability of the motor....

and THOMAS, as far as you saying about needing the dyno tune, well that wasn't possible due to blueovalchips not wanting to help providing the program to the dyno shop. imagine that! but i didn't even need one. ill probably do a few dyno pulls anyways and have them do it just to be safe....
 
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