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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my cougar keeps gettin real hot when im at idel(stoped at a red light)its gotten close to the very top twice now but when i start goin it drops real fast(especially when the heatrs on full blast). i think its my electric fan cause a while ago it was raining and i saw it was gettin hot so i popped the hood and i saw smok ecoing right from the middle of my electic fan. so thats my guess does anyone else have any other i deas
 

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yeah, most likely your fan is broke, especially if it was smoking. It could be a relay, but I doubt it. you would need a dmm to check for sure, but most likely the fan. I would highly reccomend having it checked out by a mechanic before buying anything. sometimes it is something stupid like a relay or a wire
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yea i just got a lotta money recently so i went and bought some flows and im gettin it painted and dropped, intake, and some 03 cobra r's =]

but yea im gonn atake it up to my uncle he helped me do all the work on my 85 stang
 

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sounds good man, yeah anyone with a dmm can tell you exactly what is broken. you dont realize how valuable that thing is until stuff like this happens. too bad they cost like $200 for a decent one
 

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s yeah anyone with a dmm can tell you exactly what is broken. too bad they cost like $200 for a decent one
I bought a el cheapo dmm back in about '86; it's been thru hell and back, has solder permanently embedded in it, a couple of melted spots, etc.

I did some measurements at home recently for a work project, and tried to replicate them at work with the calibrated fluke 189 meter I have there...was WAY off...I'm like WTF??? I thought the calibration was way off; (I just got it back from cal)...seemed fine. I brought in my meter the next day, mainly to see if I needed to pitch it, and the measurement was exactly the same as I originally measured.

Turns out the cheap meter was 100M ohm input impedance, the fluke is 10M, and on a high impedance circuit, it makes all the difference in the world.

So now I'm buying 5 cheapo meters for $70 each, and paying $150 each to have them calibrated so we can use them at work...everyone wants one that actually works ... Life is often strange...

You really don't need a expensive meter to dink with cars...the biggest thing you will be measuring is whether the alternator is putting out 14.4 or not when running...otherwise its 'yeah its there' or 'I got nothing'.

If you want to measure audio, you need an oscilloscope.

To measure audio power, a handheld is only going to give you a relative answer. If you use the same audio, and the same meter, the reading means something. But if you measure the rms power of say, snoop dogg, vs Mozart, the measurement isn't accurate. The harmonic content is different, and not comparable. Errors are around 10%.

The power analyzer I use basically measures the temperature of a calibrated resistor, and calculates it from that. No frequency dependent errors; It's even older than I am, and that's saying something...

Long story short, (too late...lol) Buy a meter you can afford, and learn to use it. If it has a name brand, you paid too much for what you will likely use it for.
 

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try changing the fan temp sensor.. that was what was causing mine to overheat... i thought it was the fan but it was just the sensor... it should be on the passenger side, coming straight up from a tree in the block (not the vent plug tree, that has the temp sensor for teh guage) replace it....
 

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I

You really don't need a expensive meter to dink with cars...t
Grog is right. For the working man, I'd rather throw my money at something else.
I usually buy quality car parts and tools etc but a high end DMM is overkill for checking out basic stuff on cars.

I have a cheapy DMM. I was so impressed with it that when they were on sale ($25 on for 9.99) I bought another one so when the first one bites it. I have another one ready to go. That was years ago and the 2nd one is still in the box.

Sounds like Txcougar needs a fan.
 

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This is kind of turning off-topic, but I've had a pretty decent digital meter from Radio Shack for 6 years or so, and it is perfect for car stuff. It's durable, audio feedback for continuity, and even though I never really use it, it's got a serial port and can do datalogging if you so desire. I think I only paid $40 or so for it new, I'm sure something similar is much cheaper now.
 

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DMM's suitable for driveway troubleshooting are dirt cheap. If it's a DMM and it works when you turn it on it's good enough for measuring any voltages and resistances you need to measure in a cars electrical system. You might not want to try measuring high current or you'll be popping fuses though...
 

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I suppose you guys are right about just messing around with your car in the driveway, but with the cheaper meters you dont get any of the higher functions you need as a mechanic:idea:
What dmm functions could be found in a meter that would be of use to a mechanic?

my el cheapo has temperature, frequency, inductance and capacitance, and all the normal functions I could reasonable expect a meter to have...

I have specialized equipment for the other things I guess you're talking about...timing light with dwell, (pretty much useless for these cars), vacuum gages, pressure meters for the ac, a clamp on current probe for the stereo, and custom connectors that let me look at the o2 sensors with my scope...(you need a fet input probe for that one)

Which functions are you talking about?
 

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you guys are just determined to not agree with me. I am sorry that I brought it up. all that I was trying to point out is that not all meters are the same. I suppose that the blue point one that we were issued at school was probably over priced anyway because it was made by crap-on.
 

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The only settings ive ever used on a DMM was voltage, impedance, and the diode setting once or twice.
 
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