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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm going to be buying parts for my rebuild in the next couple of weeks so I will be doing some research. Most of this list was taken from this thread with some modifications by me. The Moog part number is included with the part.

Front Suspension

Upper Control Arm
LEFT - INCL BALL JOINT K8596
RIGHT - INCL BALL JOINT K8598
Cam & Bolt Kit K8521 x2

Ford offers two different types of upper control arms according to this thread. OEM which are more expensive than the Moog and Motorcraft which are a good bit cheaper. The OEM has no grease fittings while the Motorcraft does.

Lower Control Arm
LEFT - INCL BALL JOINT K80053
RIGHT - INCL BALL JOINT K80055

Strut Rod
*Use OEM only for the frame side. People have experienced problems with the aftermarket strut rod bushings for the frame side.

Ford part #'s
Strut Rod Bushing Kit Frame Side: E9SZ3A187A
Strut Rod Bushings LCA Side - Front: E9SZ3A140A
Strut Rod Bushings LCA Side - Rear: E9SZ3A140B

Strut Rod Bushing/Kit K8680 LCA Side

Sway Bar Link/Kit K8635

Sway Bar Frame Bushing/Kit
w/1-3/32" Bar K8756
w/1-1/8" Bar K8757
w/1-1/16" Bar K8752

Tie Rod End Link Outer ES3004RL x2
Inner EV127 x2

Rear Suspension

*REAR COMPENSATOR LINK K8594 x2
*Sway Bar Link/Kit K8641 x2
*Upper Control ARM TO FRAME K8562 x2
*Upper Control Arm ARM TO KNUCKLE K8588 x2
*Lower Control Arm Kit ** * K8658 x2

Available Polyurethane Bushings

From SuperCoupePerformance.com
Front Suspension Bushing Kit
Rear Spindle Bushing Kit
Rear Shock Mount Kit - for non-ARC shocks
Upper and Lower Spring Cups for the REAR Springs

Rear Inner LCA bushings can be found in the PROTHANE 99-04 Mustang Cobra IRS C-ARM Bushing Kit #6-311-BL. See this thread for details.



That's all for now. Feel free to point out anything that I've messed up or missed. I'm sure that I've missed some things from SCP and I'm not sure what all spinningwheels-SC sells.

What all companies make lowering springs for our cars? Eibach, Vogtland
 

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The only adjustment or exception I’d make to your list would be the strut rod bushings – frame side. Please list/use the oem ford bushings. They are very expensive but the actually work correctly unlike every single aftermarket replacement. Way too many of us have experienced the disaster called the K8659. I have to temper this by saying if you drive the car in an extremely conservative way the K8659 would be ok BUT for anyone doing spirited driving (and especially braking) your only choice should be the OEM.
 

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The only adjustment or exception I’d make to your list would be the strut rod bushings – frame side. Please list/use the oem ford bushings. They are very expensive but the actually work correctly unlike every single aftermarket replacement. Way too many of us have experienced the disaster called the K8659. I have to temper this by saying if you drive the car in an extremely conservative way the K8659 would be ok BUT for anyone doing spirited driving (and especially braking) your only choice should be the OEM.

I second that. I just replaced mine along with the LCA's. They (the strut rod bushings - frame side) run abour $70 PER SIDE! But, they're the only way to go.

Ford Part Numbers
Strut Rod Bushing Kit Frame Side: E9SZ3A187A
Strut Rod Bushings LCA Side - Front: E9SZ3A140A
Strut Rod Bushings LCA Side - Rear: E9SZ3A140B
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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I have the frame side strut rod kit from ford but

I have wasted money being ignorant about this a few months back, I bought the LCA side bushing kit from CSKautoparts. Should I use it when I replace the LCAs or is that a stupid move. I am a spirited driver btw. Bottom line is will the wearing of the low quality bushing and ferrule kit be safety issue in the future. I will replace them if they started to clunk but I cant return them since its been more than 30 days. Dont over look the Differential bushing. My Tbird was a babied car and they were beginning to become misshapen so I replaced them with the poly ones. Other than rear shocks every part you can change has been mentioned in the suspension section I believe. I guess you can add outer trans cross member bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I made the changes mentioned. Does anybody have anything else?

How about info on the different size sway bars in the mn12s and Mark VIIIs.
 

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The only adjustment or exception I’d make to your list would be the strut rod bushings – frame side. Please list/use the oem ford bushings. They are very expensive but the actually work correctly unlike every single aftermarket replacement. Way too many of us have experienced the disaster called the K8659. I have to temper this by saying if you drive the car in an extremely conservative way the K8659 would be ok BUT for anyone doing spirited driving (and especially braking) your only choice should be the OEM.
Rock Auto says it's an improved design now. I just got mine today, I hope they're good enough.

What size wrenches am I going to need to put them in? I don't have anything bigger than a 22mm and that doesn't come close.
 

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Rock Auto says it's an improved design now. I just got mine today, I hope they're good enough.

What size wrenches am I going to need to put them in? I don't have anything bigger than a 22mm and that doesn't come close.
I'm afraid they are the same thing. The ‘improved’ refers to their use of a less than stellar thermoplastic compound that can react to some underhood chemicals (power steering fluid anyone?) and is further crippled by the use of the fixed length ferrule that we love to hate so much. They are the ones we moan and groan about.

I use large adjustable wrenches on the nuts.
 

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Cougar Pilot
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Damn. I don't know if I can throw another $100 at this thing right now, especially on such a simple (but unfortunately critical) part.
 

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They are going to be for a while. This failure is more common with those that exibit a 'spirited' driving style. There are things you can do to help keep them together. 1) Keep them clean (this really applies to the drivers side front of the bushing) If you have any power steering fluid leakage they will begin to soften. 2) check for slop. As they wear the bushing will begin to ‘smoosh’ more but that extra motion cant be damped or controlled if the nuts aren’t tight or if the ferrule is inhibiting the nuts be tightened to a reasonable preload. It would seem prudent that should there be any play or slop that the bushing and the nuts are tight, that the ferrule should be removed and trimmed down some small amount (1/16”) and retry.
 

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Cougar Pilot
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My stock ones exhibit no signs of wear that I can see. They're tight, not pushed out, or rotten.

Perhaps I'll just leave them as they are and send Rock Auto their Moog bushings back.

The car has 200k miles, so it might be good to replace them, then again it only has so many more miles left in it so it may not be an issue.

Opinions?

Apologies for the quasi thread hijack
 

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1994 Tbird - JO'Neil long block, TFHS trans, Quarterhorse tuned
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What size wrenches am I going to need to put them in? I don't have anything bigger than a 22mm and that doesn't come close.
front suspension tools

as i remember it, i had to buy a big 30 mm open ended wrench for this. i also borrowed a BIG crescent wrench to hold the strut rod straight while tightening.

since you will be in this deep, may as well replace the hub. you'll need a 36 mm socket for the hub nut. do not reuse the old one....buy a new nut.
 

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The only adjustment or exception I’d make to your list would be the strut rod bushings – frame side. Please list/use the oem ford bushings. They are very expensive but the actually work correctly unlike every single aftermarket replacement. Way too many of us have experienced the disaster called the K8659. I have to temper this by saying if you drive the car in an extremely conservative way the K8659 would be ok BUT for anyone doing spirited driving (and especially braking) your only choice should be the OEM.
what's wrong with the poly frame side bushings?
 

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This should be a sticky...

This has all the good numbers in it.
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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I would like to add poly diff bushings are available from SCP.com and the 89 SC front sway bar takes 30mm or 1 3/16ths sized mid section bushings, not 1.2 as mentioned in the tech article(this should be corrected). The bushings are available from energy suspension. I found it to be frustrating to find a set that fit the bar but it turned out amazon.com had it for cheaper than any place else.
 

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Sorry for the dumb question, but besides OEM, is one brand better than another on thses parts, or is there one company to avoid more than another?
 

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Avoid any of the cheapo stuff from the parts stores, usually boxed as OE brand or Dorman. Things like the control arms you want trw or Moog(Moog being the best), strut rod bushings you want OEM and OEM only.
Are Moog bushings good for the LCA side of the tension rod? They seem pretty stout.

Hope so, just put them on both cars!

Al
 

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I just heard from Jason:

Hi,
The E9SZ-3A187-B is discontinued they are a few scattered out there at other dealers.The ferrules are obsolete also.I can get the 3a187 kit but the mark up on it probably would be high.
But the individual bushings are still available:

E9SZ3B271A front bushing at frame
F7SZ3A225AA rear bushing at frame

Joe
 

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See this thread for strut rod bushing updates (Joe got ahead of me:) ) :

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?p=1358609

PART NO: LIST PRICE:

E9SZ3A140A $12.38 front bushing at arm
E9SZ3A140B $12.50 rear bushing at arm
E9SZ3B271A $12.82 front bushing at frame
F7SZ3A225AA $6.41 rear bushing at frame

These are the correct bushing part numbers without washers or ferrules. The "kits" and ferrules are now obsolete but some dealers still have a few on the shelf. If you have been thinking of replacing yours or need to, dont wait much longer.
 

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The upper and lower control arms from the factory were TRW I believe just for info; and they have no grease fittings so keep that in mind.
 
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