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Discussion Starter #3
cool deal. i got it off but it was stuck so when i pulled it the wires connected to the shifter came with it........

now i need to disconnect my linkage but dont see any ways to get it off.
i can see the steel line.
 

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disconnect the linkage at the drivers side of the trans underneath. Getting it free from the shifter is not fun & too much work.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yeah, i feel like a retard breaking my shifter down now. i got the linkage loose from the tranny. now ive got to remove the exhaust and then get the drive shaft off.

now i need to figure out a way to reconnect those wire to my shifter
 

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Discussion Starter #8
my car used to be loud. then i went and bought an exhaust for it. now it's quiet.

the problem is. my purchased exhaust is getting in the way of my transmission drop and im going to have to remove it .


so a couple of questions.

1. will my wiring in my shifter affect my shifter, even though its disconnected? (maybe hit the brake and shift?)

2., how does my drive shaft break loose? ive been beating at it and no resolve.
 

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Yes, the broken wiring may effect the shift interlock, and also the O/D button. More than likely the O/D button will not work now.

As far as the driveshaft goes, soak the bolts w/ some PB Blaster, stick a wrench on and pull. Lower the gas tank or drop the rear end and pull the driveshaft out the back.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i dont really have to drop my gas tank do i? i dont want to replace the drive shaft just disconnect it from the transmission.
 

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Yup, you got it. Either lower the tank or drop the rear. No other way.

Jay
 

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Here's a guide coutesy of Chris...

I think the fastest and the best are both from under the car. The easiest though would be attaching it to the engine with the engine out, but then that no longer qualifies as the fastest way.

Steps to remove the trans.

1) Unplug the battery!
2) Rotate the engine so that the torque converter drain plug is facing the ground. Then remove the drain plug and allow the torque converter to drain.
3) Disconnect the exhaust. Remove the nuts holding the y-pipe to the exhaust manifolds. There are four altogether, three accessible from the under the car and one on the driver's side accessible from the top. They are 15mm. Then disconnect after the third cat. Remember to disconnect the oxygen sensors before letting the exhaust hang down so as to not damage the sensors or wires.
4) Remove the starter. There are three bolts, the top one being the hardest to get to, although with the exhaust out of the way it might be a tad easier.
5) Remove the driveshaft loop near the differential. You'll need some long extensions.
6) Using a 12mm 12-point wrench, remove the 4 bolts holding the driveshaft to the differential. The easiest way is to get the rear wheels off the ground, put the transmission in neutral, rotate the driveshaft so the bolts are accessible and then set the parking brake to hold the differential in place.
7) With a jack and a block of wood or with a transmission jack (preferred), lower the gas tank. Place the jack under the center of the tank and remove the 4 bolts holding the straps. Lower enough so that the driveshaft can slide out under the differential. Before removing the driveshaft from the transmission, place a drain pan under the tailshaft.
8) Raise gas tank and secure the straps.
9) Once the torque converter has finished draining, rotate the engine to gain access to each of the 4 bolts holding the torque converter to the flexplate. I believe they are 9/16 in size.
10) After all 4 torque converter bolts are removed, disconnect the transmission cooler lines from the side of the transmission. A 1/2" wrench will do the trick.
11) Disconnect the two electrical connections by the crossmember. One is a big square and the other is rectangular.
12) Disconnect the shift linkage by the MLPS. You'll see it as a cable that comes down from the top of the hump and snaps onto a ball. With a screwdriver you can pry it off. Then remove the nut/bolt holding the cable bracket onto the transmission case.
13) Remove the dipstick tube from the transmission. It is secured with a bolt to the engine. Remove the bolt and wiggle while pulling up to get it out. Have a drain pan under that section of the transmission.
14) Support the transmission with a transmission jack under the drain pan. Remove the nut holding the transmission mount to the crossmember.
15) Remove the two bolts holding the crossmember to the frame and remove the crossmember.
16) Now you can begin removing the transmission bellhousing-to-engine bolts. There are some all around the perimeter of the bellhousing and I believe they are 9/16" or 15mm in size. Some extensions and u-joints will make this easier. You can also lower the transmission jack to help gain access to the bolts on the top.
17) Once all bolts are removed, the transmission can be slid backwards and removed. It may take a little persuasion and some gentle rocking back and forth since the dowels might be stuck. A prybar can help separate the two.
18) Once it is separated, lower the jack and slide it out from under the car.

Installation is the reverse of the above. Be careful when reinstalling the transmission to line up the torque converter studs with the holes in the flexplate. You can do some serious damage forcing it on if the holes aren't lined up.

You also have the option of disconnecting the top cooler line of the radiator placing a rubber tube on the end of that line to feed into a drain pan. Then start the engine at leave it idling until no fluid comes out of the line. Then shut off the engine. This will drain a lot of fluid from the main section of the transmission and eliminate the need to have a drain pan under the transmission when removing the driveshaft and the dipstick tube.

Note: You may want to support the engine with a jack and block of wood under the oil pan while the transmission is out so the engine isn't leaning back and putting strain on the mounts.

Jay
 
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