I've been screwing around with this all day. Short of removing the cam, is there any way to get to the lower head bolts on this car? My socket wrench (all 4 that I've tried) is obstructed by the shock tower. I had a hell of a time removing one of the valve cover bolts on the bottom, but manged to get it out with my fingers. I have zero clearance to get a socket of any kind on the head bolts.
I suppose I could remove the motor mount bolt and jack up the engine on that side, but I'd have to remove the A/C compressor to get to the mount bolt. Removing the compressor look like zero fun.
To those who have done this, please pass on the methods!
I've heard people having problems getting the bolts out of the head, and the solution there is to hold them up with a rubber band so they clear the engine block.
I've never heard someone say they couldn't get a socket on them.
I've never removed a set in the car; the head gaskets rarely blow, it's usually the oil filter adapter making the oil look like chocolate milk.
Short sockets and u-joints would be my guess.
The service manual doesn't say anything other than the rubber band part to hold them after they're loose.
Rubber bands are a great idea, IF I can loosen the bolts. Haven't tried a U-joint yet. Was going to get back at it in the morning. I don't have any short sockets. I'm using 1/2" drive. Don't think 3/8" drive would handle it, especially with a U-joint.
I found the cause of my milkshake oil. A right side freeze plug under the timing cover popped out. I don't know the history of this engine. I bought it with suspected blown head gaskets. I doubt they are blown but while I'm there I figured I needed to rule out that issue. It only has 94K original miles on it, but I don't know if the speedo works.
Headgaskets very rarely fail on modulars and with the failed freeze plug, that’s guaranteed the issue. I would pull the rod caps and check the bearings to see if that milkshake did damage.
I get the bolts off using a combination of extensions, many of which are wobble type. Make sure you have the bolts in the head using the rubber band when you put in the head too.
I got the head off. I had to take the cam out to get access. I didn't have any rubber bands so I used zip ties and the intake bolts to hold the bolts well out of the block. Head gaskets were good until I pulled the heads off! I am going to remove the short block to check the bearings. I decided this days ago when I could still see remnants of the "milkshake" in the oil pan when I took the timing cover off. Thanks for the suggestion. Of course I'm going to replace front and rear main seals, TC seal (might even put in a new TC), and a complete timing chain/tensioner/guide set. All this on top of the head gaskets and intake gaskets. These $500 bargains can get expensive real quick. I hope it doesn't have tranny issues!
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