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Discussion Starter #1
i picked up a tbird that was a front hit, one bumper horn is good the other is slightly crushed, how should i go about repair it? i can't see any location that it is bolted on.

thanks
 

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Not sure which part of the bumper you're talking about. If it's the waffle shaped bumper pad that sits behind the plastic facade then you could find a good one at the bone yard and replace it or they may still be available; you'll have to check with Jon.

Could you post a picture of the part/area in question?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
could possible do a picture later, what's crumpled is the front portion of the frame that the metal support bumper is welded to. i drilled the spot welds on the steel bumper and removed it. but its the frame that crushed (looks like its designed to) on the passenger sidel rail.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i don't think there's any pulling to it, the frame structure is good and straight the one side just crumpled like its suppose to. i've got a second car so we may just cut the piece off i need and weld it in.
 

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I just fixed a Mark 8 that was in a small front end collision. The front bumper piece was split in the middle - one horn was crumpled, the other was bent slightly.

With the Mark there is an extra horn extension on top of the frame horn I was able to drill out the spot welds and weld in a new horn extension and front bumper from a donor car.

The bent side, I cut back far enough and welded a new piece in place.

That was the easy part - now Im trying to get the car re-registered again with the salvage title. :rolleyes:
 

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When a part of the vehicle is bent which does not unbolt, do not remove any parts from it. The ideal way to repair bent/damaged "frame" parts is to use a frame machine to pull the other parts outside of the damaged area. Those outer parts are sacrificed to help fix the rest.

The parts you want to remove because you think they are useless, don't unbolt or drill them off. The frame machine operator needs them to help him to unbend the real frame that you are saving. The more parts they have to start pulling on, the better(and easier and cheaper) the frame machine can straighten the vehicle frame.

Remove bolt on parts as you like, but leave as much as possible for the frame machine to pull on. Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #9
frame doesn't appear to be bent. here's some pictutures. what is the canister on the righthand side of the frame rail and what does it do?

Thanks!
David



 

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That looks like the carbon canister. And yes, the impact bar that you are referring to is tack welded to the crumple zones, and can be removed by drilling the welds out. Did this on my 95 in order to get the front end fixed. Just hit em with a centerpunch and go to town w/ a sharp bit. I think there's 12-14 welds total IIRC, but it's been a while.

Jay
 

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I have to do the same, I think the easiest without having to go to a frame shop is to cut and weld on the piece from a donor car. I think I want to go that route now since I dont know if a frame shop can do it anybetter. yes they will be able to pull it far enough to make it functional and be straight but I bet that they will leave deform metal behind that will never look like original unless you cut it and replace.

Post updates I need to follow your work to get mine done. too

I also have the inner fender bent slightly on my project I think again cutting and pasting would work better then pulling and banging since you will leave a better finish doing that.
 

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That canister in your pictures is the charcoal canister, part of the EVAP (evaporative emissions) system. It is connected to the fuel tank by a hose and is designed to store fuel vapors from the gas tank so that they are not released into the atmosphere. I believe that it sometimes releases fuel vapors into the engine to be burned in the combustion process., but I'm not positive on that particular point.

Dennis
 

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Dennis is right. I had to replace that BS because I was getting a check engine light from it.
What exactly did you replace and did it take care of your check engine light? I'm having the same exact problem, although I haven't attempted replacing anything yet.

Dennis
 

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I was getting codes from that damn evap crap. A shop replaced the valve assembly that is popriveted to the rail, but that didn't cure the problem. I got a cannister from a guy parting out his car. If I remember right, 89 up are the same. Just unbolt it and bolt the new one in place. I moved the vacuum lines over before bolting it in place. Much easier.
 
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