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Discussion Starter #1
I'll ask the question first, is there anywhere I can compare different model years and see pictures?

on to the meat, how does a 95 cougar compare to a 96 in terms of improvements and enhancements made in 96? engine differences? OBDII? interior/instrumentation/SATC/etc??

I ask because I'm trying to find another Cougar, and I really like the 96 for many reasons, I don't like the 97's and I don't know anything about earlier years and how they stack up to a 96.
 

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Read the Tech Articles! :mad:

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/overall/desc.html

Do your own research, use search, use Google, GET A LIFE! Quit starting useless threads that clutter up the board; and quit expecting us to spoon feed you answers to basic questions. :rant:

Congratulations, you are the first person in my three years as a member here to earn yourself a place on my ignore list.

 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
ya, that tech article answered a lot of questions, and really went into detail about the differences and/or changes. thanks for flying off the handle there buddy.

terminator, thanks, I've read the wiki article before, it explains quite a bit, but I would like to know more, like an actual side by side comparison if such a thing exists. I haven't seen one.

What I'm most interested in is construction between the two years and how it varied. I may not be lucky enough to find a 96 and want something close to it or able to swap interiors and such things.
 

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As far as I know, the only major differences besides cosmetics is the engine got the better plastic intake, slightly better heads, fully functional OBDII, no exhaust resonator, slightly better transmission internals, and I could be wrong on this but seems like a lot of 96-97's have 3.27 gears vs 3.08. Thats all I can think of. There easier to swap the PI intake too. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so it might not be a bad idea to swap those parts from a 96 onto a 95, but making a 95 OBDII would require a whole computer swap wouldn't it? engine swap?? I'm not to knowledgeable about computer/PCM stuff, or if it could even be done.

I really do like the look of the 95 over a 96, but I've really come to love the 96 in general because of it's little enhancements, and at first I didn't like the body style, but after seeing it so much, it's actually a pretty sexy car. ;)
 

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Your 1000 dollar 3G alternator can be used in a go cart too. I think that might be a better fit for you.

I would be interesting in knowing just what differences between a 96 and a 97 that you hate so much...no fair if the peanut gallery posts the two actual changes (and I am not talking about what plant they were possibly made at).

The heads (valve guides/seals) and craptacular aluminum intake and clogged EGR passages in the 94/95 and more boat anchorish transmissions made me search out a 96/97 when I couldn't find the Mark VIII I wanted.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Your 1000 dollar 3G alternator can be used in a go cart too. I think that might be a better fit for you.

I would be interesting in knowing just what differences between a 96 and a 97 that you hate so much...no fair if the peanut gallery posts the two actual changes (and I am not talking about what plant they were possibly made at).

The heads (valve guides/seals) and craptacular aluminum intake and clogged EGR passages in the 94/95 and more boat anchorish transmissions made me search out a 96/97 when I couldn't find the Mark VIII I wanted.
what exactly are you talking about? I have 2 HO alts, the value of which together is more than $1000 CAD with shipping costs included, and I dont know how a go kart plays into this......about the rest, I was saying that i like the improvements to the 96 model year over the 95 year(as mentioned, better trans parts etc), and I simply don't like the gauge cluster in the 97, that's it.

But I actually wanted to know what had been changed from 95 and earlier, aside from OBDI/II and actual appearance.
 

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All 94+ 4.6L cougars are already OBD2, so no worries there. The chassis is exactly the same. The heads, intake manifold, and trans are really the only improvements, and those are easily swapped out. I personally prefer the look of the 91-95 cougars over the 96/97, but that is personal preference. If you keep your 96, you could actually swap the whole front end over onto a 94/95 car and the only thing you would be missing would be the body side cladding, which I don't particularly care for anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
All 94+ 4.6L cougars are already OBD2, so no worries there. The chassis is exactly the same. The heads, intake manifold, and trans are really the only improvements, and those are easily swapped out. I personally prefer the look of the 91-95 cougars over the 96/97, but that is personal preference. If you keep your 96, you could actually swap the whole front end over onto a 94/95 car and the only thing you would be missing would be the body side cladding, which I don't particularly care for anyway.
ya the 91-95s do look nice. IIRC the interiors are exactly the same as a 96 isnt it??

I wouldn't swap the body or front end, cause I like the look also. Thanks for the OBDII info, I couldn't remember where I saw that but I thought I remembered that being the case.

I just talked to the insurance company and didn't get into detail but they did say that keeping the car is an option, but it's my dad's insurance I was on so I didn't want to meddle or anything.

How does that work with money?? do you get money and get to keep the car or do you keep the car instead of getting money?

the big problem if we get some money and get to keep the car is going to be finding another car for cheap but that isn't actually cheap.

I'm finding it hard to find another MN12 with no rust, and a V8 for about $1500 or so, but I don't want to scrap this one, and the thousands of dollars in parts I just put on it, only to get another car and spend MORE money having to replace all the same crap I just fixed on my cougar.

At least if I get another MN12 and it has bad ball joints I won't have to buy more parts, I can take them from my wrecked cougar.

so yeah, I'm on like pins and needles right now since my parents are gone until sunday, the adjuster is coming monday and I know my dad wants top dollar but he is the one who decides to keep the car which he won't do if we don't get enough money......we will disagree on that one and which is more cost effective.
 

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Usually when you keep the car they basically deduct the salvage value of the car from the settlement. So in other words if the car was worth $2000, and it is now worth $200, and if you have a $500 deductible, then you would get a check for $1300 and keep the car, or a check for $1500 and they take the car. Obviously those numbers are all just made up, but you get the idea. Most likely, the salvage value on that car will be very low due to the age of the car. If you need help convincing your dad to keep the car, just look at it as are the parts worth what they say the salvage value is. If for $2-300 you can have a parts car with just body damage, then you can save a lot more than that on maintenance on another tbird or cougar.
 

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ya the 91-95s do look nice. IIRC the interiors are exactly the same as a 96 isnt it??
I believe the interiors from 89-93 are the same, and 94-97 interiors are the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Usually when you keep the car they basically deduct the salvage value of the car from the settlement. So in other words if the car was worth $2000, and it is now worth $200, and if you have a $500 deductible, then you would get a check for $1300 and keep the car, or a check for $1500 and they take the car. Obviously those numbers are all just made up, but you get the idea. Most likely, the salvage value on that car will be very low due to the age of the car. If you need help convincing your dad to keep the car, just look at it as are the parts worth what they say the salvage value is. If for $2-300 you can have a parts car with just body damage, then you can save a lot more than that on maintenance on another tbird or cougar.
I dont know the details of the insurance, but I o think my dad wants to keep the car, but we need money to get another. if it came down to a matter of needing that extra couple hundred, he may not keep it. But that wopuld be stupid and I think he knows that, because we've spent tons putting new parts on that car, more than a few hundred dollars. I definitely want another cougar or bird, so that those parts can be used to fix it. Ball joints for instance. those have all recently been replaced, If I get another MN12 and it needs ball joints, I can use the ones I just installed on the car I wrecked.

Then get a 96.

/endthread
been looking for one, kind of hard to find around here, and even harder to find one in the same shape as mine.....no rust, perfect underbody.

I seen a nice 96 the other day, 88,000km, recently repainted, but had surface rust all over the underside, and seam rust on the shock towers with a full on rust spot about 3" wide, right where the hood closes by the tower.

interior was immaculate.

if im not able to get a 96 I wouldn't mind an older one as long as I could still use my parts, and swap interiors and stuff etc.

there is a nice 97 in toronto, but buying out of the city that far is kind of a hassle.

I don't know what I would get if i cant get a cougar/tbird, I really like these cars.
 

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Suspension parts between all MN12s are interchangeable IIRC.
 

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Correct.

The only suspension difference would be they changed the front spindles for 93, but if you found a really nice 89-92 you could swap your 96 spindles onto the older car to be able to upgrade your brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm still getting a bit ahead of myself though, I don't know if I will be keeping the cougar yet (suspense is literally killing me) and how much I will have to spend.

someone has a nice t-bird for $1200 in Windsor but how do I buy a car that's 2 hours away?

the rims on the car are worth 1200 and it's been listed for sale for about a month now so hopefully it will still be available. I might take a road trip tomorrow to go look at it.
 

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Double, even triple check every digit and every letter of VIN, fill out transfer portion of title, get owner to sign, pay, drive to DMV and get temp permit to transport if across state lines, or your own registration, go back to car, put new tags on, drive home.

Check tires, gas, oil first.
 
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