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Discussion Starter #1
i found myself a 3l27, 180k+ on the clock. i was expecting a horror show when i popped her open.... clutches, bearings, possibly gears. but i was pleasantly surprised to see a nice pattern, very little lash, spiders gears haven't even worn in, and the clutches have a ton of meat left on them(looked like about 1/8" just peaking in).

i suppose its possible it was rebuilt not long ago, but from the look of the fluid, i don't think so... its really the only thing in their that looks like it has 180k on it >.> more like black sludge then oil. also of course the axle seals were leaking a bit.

anyway, how long do the 8.8s usually last? especially when abused.

i mean i would imagine with regular fluid changes it would last forever, but from what my father and i have seen so far before even taking the carrier out to check the pinion and bearings; i would just put some seals and a couple of quarts of royal purple in their and call it a day.

its a damn sight tighter and better looking then my 3.08 i know that, and it had fresh syn oil at 120k >.>

just got to clean it out in the parts washer.... dropped her out in the mud and got some in the side with the bearing >.> otherwise i got this thing for practically nothing from a local UpullIt, didn't even ask me what was inside, $60 with a $10 core fells like i stole it!
 

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RobertP has put over 800 rwhp through his, I believe; I'm sure he's one of a few here who have TOTALLY abused theirs! ;)
 

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If the gear pattern looks good and the backlash is within spec, then you will be fine to run it. I would replace the clutches anyway just because even though they look like they have plenty of meat on them, the tighter they are, the better the trak-lok will function, and the clutches are cheap and easy to replace, and you don't need to take apart the rest of the diff to do it. But to back up what others have said, short of a bearing failure or running without fluid or overheating it, they are quite strong and durable.
 

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^ couldnt have said that better (what Matt said)
 

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I've yet to break one, the 8.8 is a beast
 

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From pics here and stories elsewhere, you'll be more likely to bust the carrier than damage the diff.

And THAT'S not that common!

RwP
 

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From pics here and stories elsewhere, you'll be more likely to bust the carrier than damage the diff.

And THAT'S not that common!

RwP
You said it Ralph!

Joker found a way to kill his...

I'm not sure if any amount of reinforcement of the stock rear end could have prevented this.

Rearend Diarea

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PostSlut
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i installed a used unknown milage mustang t-lock in my bird.
i used, used gears as well.
also, I picked the best clutches out a few sets(used of course), and going from a 3.08 open rear to a 4.10 track lock made a night and day difference.

so, with that said, inspect the clutches, there isn't much clutch material to begin with....the 1/8th inch space you see, is more like the friction plates in between the clutches.
Aslo, if you rebuild it, stck the clutches different than the factory to get more bite.
 

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All those pics can't be of the same rear end. In the first pic, the axle is pulled out of the pumpkin; in the last pic, they are both installed.
 

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They are of the same rear end. You can see the axle hanging where it's seperated in the lower left hand corner of the last picture.
 

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I've broken the mounting ear on the aluminum mark viii case, never had any trouble with the iron tbird unit. Never broke a cover either.
 

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Beer and Cheese
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I like the cast iron differentials more than the aluminum. The cast iron is stronger and you'll have less of a chance of breaking off the ears. Aluminum your getting the weight savings and heat dissipation. And I would pass on the royal purple, save your money with another synthetic brand.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well, it looks like one of the carrier bearings is pitted up a little... suppose ill just rebuild it. gears are still good though, and yes the clutches have a slight bit of material left, but their pretty thin. overall at least the carrier itself is good.
 

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They are of the same rear end. You can see the axle hanging where it's seperated in the lower left hand corner of the last picture.
Oh yeh, I see it now. Good eye, Ron!
 

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I think Keith broke one a few years ago with his N2O/auto/transbrake car. I remember seeing the pic. But IIRC, it looked to me like a halfshaft failure that wasted his pumpkin.

At any rate, rest your head that an 8.8 built properly with good stuff will survive just fine behind the stoutest streetable mod motors. RobertP's car proves it on every pass he makes. Is his comparable to launching off a two step with a killer 460+ inch Jesel drive-Kaase head big block I can't say as I don't recall seeing what RobertP's dyno sheet was showing for a torque curve. But if that were the case then there's really only one choice I'd be comfortable with anyway and it wouldn't even be a production Ford 9" at that point then either......seen a few them go boom too.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I'm looking around and i cant seem to find a clutch kit for the 8.8 irs 28 spline... a lot of the ones i find seem to be for straight axles, and summits says its not for IRS

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-4700-c

that "Designed for 1986 to 2004 Mustang with non IRS axles" leaves me scratching my head...

is their any difference at all from the non IRS... as far as i know it was just the spider gears not having a C-clip relief cut in them for the CV axle shafts, but they were more or less identical otherwise.

a lot of what i'm looking at is from http://www.tccoa.com/articles/mn12-techinfo/traction-lok/traction-lok.htm
but some of the part numbers are no longer avail..

also what do you guys think about bearing kits? national? or should i get something from timkin. i really don't like the look of the Power-torque ones from my orielly store... they have toyo bearings and races. not familiar with that brand at all, sounds kind of like cheep Chinese stuff. 762b004 is the part number.

woops, guess i overlooked M-4700-B on the tech article. that must be the one i need eh? looks like summit has it.
 

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also what do you guys think about bearing kits? national? or should i get something from timkin. i really don't like the look of the Power-torque ones from my orielly store... they have toyo bearings and races. not familiar with that brand at all, sounds kind of like cheep Chinese stuff.
I always use Ratech for rebuilding diffs and am 100% satisfied. More about Ratech.

Toyo bearings are made in India btw. Good stuff easily compares to Timken, etc..
 
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