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Discussion Starter #1
As I'm looking into replacing my cats, I'm trying to figure out the best way to do it.

I would like to know from real world experience how hard it is to remove the converter assembly from the exhaust manifold, from underneath the car.

I have magnaflow 94004 cats, and want to cut out my old ones and weld these in. I'd prefer not to use clamps.

Also I need to replace my donuts, how hard of a job is that with the exhaust dis-assembled?
 

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Car on jackstands, as high as you can in the front.

Take off the two bolts on the connection just behind the tranny.

Take off the four bolts in the front at the manifolds.

Loosen the tranny crossmember.

When the tail of the tranny drops down, the front y-section of the exhaust will come right out.

You may have to beat on it to get it unbound; it's pretty tight.

Liberal application of PB blaster a few times the day before makes a huge difference.

You live in the great salt area of the world, so you may need a torch... :)

Bolt the crossmember back up; don't leave it hanging. The changed angle makes it slide right out and back in, tho.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok I appreciate those answers, but what I'm really wondering is, How hard is it..... am I going to have to contort to get to the manifold bolts, or use any kind of strange angled tool or something??

am I going to be under the car yelling and swearing because it's impossible to move to get it out? I know how "easy" the FSM makes it sound.... it never seems to be that easy lol.

My car has been well taken care of, looks great underneath and isn't roptted or rusted out./

It's been krown'd every year since it's birth.
 

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I've never had any problems getting them off, A swivel socket and some long extensions help, especially on the driver side manifold where you loosen from the top (the stud is mounted to the exhaust flange instead of the manifolds like the other 3). The other bolts you have a pretty clear shot at them from the bottom.
Yeah, I agree.

Remember the pb blaster!

If you pop the crossmember, you don't have to struggle with it; it comes right out. I noticed by accident while pulling a transmission; Normally getting the front over the bolts is a B****; it hits the car body and binds. But it all lines up perfectly with the crossmember loose.

That has worked on both 96 Cougars and a JY wreck I took a transmission out of.

YMMV. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
My dad seems awfully set on the fact that it will be easier to just cut the old cats out and clamp the new ones in. He seems to think that without heating the stud bolts They are going to break and cause the world as we know it to come to an abrupt end.

I have nothing to really go on aside from what's told to me here, so what do I have to worry about as far as that goes? is PB blaster really going to be good enough to free the bolts so they don't break??

do I have much to worry about as far as alignment of welding the new cats in place of the old ones?

welding the new cats in is my preferred choice of installment. how close to the manifold should the cats be?

EDIT**

I just picked up a can of PB Blaster, When I get a chance, maybe today, I'll sneak under there and start spraying some bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got the car up on ramps and took a look to see what I'm dealing with.

IT would seem the bottom stud bolts are fairly easy to get to on both the passenger and drivers side, and the drivers side top stud bolt seems fairly easy to get to also. The passenger side top stud bolt however looks impossible to reach.

There is the EGR valve tube and countless other things totally blocking any tool from reaching that bolt.

What am I missing here?


seems like it might be a bit of a pain to weld the cats in also. I should mark off my cuts before I take the assembly out shouldn't I?

I'm not sure how to go about welding them on there, I don't just want to shove pipes inside of other pipes and introduce restrictions, but there are some interesting angles on those pipes.
 

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what kind of car is it and year? do you any air tools it would be a big help if you do i just did mines and it was pretty easy with the air tools:D
 

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I use a 15mm ratcheting/bending end wrench. Available at any autozone made by duralast. Although I live in Vegas lol no rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
what kind of car is it and year? do you any air tools it would be a big help if you do i just did mines and it was pretty easy with the air tools:D





<---------

Yes I have air tools...What for? my goal is NOT to break bolts.

I use a 15mm ratcheting/bending end wrench. Available at any autozone made by duralast. Although I live in Vegas lol no rust.
I don't see how that type of wrench is going to fit into a space with no room.

How do I get the passenger side stud bolt loose from the manifold?? The O2 sensor is blocking it from the bottom, and EVERYTHING is blocking it from the top.

if it's like the drivers side, then it needs to be removed from the top, not the bottom of the car.
 

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You bend the end and slip it over the stud and twist. Best $15 wrench I ever bought.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm still kind of lost here, do I have to remove that bolt from the top or bottom of the car?

I can't imagine any kind of wrench or socket fitting in from either side.

bend the end of a wrench? which wrench?
 

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A foot long extension, deep socket, and a swivel. Stab the socket straight up between the body and the cat, and use your other hand to guide the socket onto the nut.
It's not that hard. You just have to... try.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
does the O2 sensor have to be removed?? I would guess yes otherwise that bolt is inaccessible.

I have gone under the car and looked.....hence the questions.
 

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That bolt isn't inaccesible on any of these cars that I have ever worked on. And, that is pretty much a whole lot.

Darrin
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I can't even see the bolt with the O2 sensor in the way.

In any case, now that I know how, and that it can be done, My biggest issue I think is going to be sticking the 94004 cats in place of the OE cats, since they are different shapes and lengths.

I don't have any bending equipment, so I'm probably going to have to make a ton of smaller cuts and weld in my own bends or something..... either that or just replace the OE cats with straight pipes, and mount the Magnaflow's a little further down where the pipes are straight, from the output of the OE cats.

I'd like to keep them close to the manifolds though.
 
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