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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Mine is totally gone, now i am looking to buy a new one and put it in. Anyone got any advice when looking for a new one, how to tell if it is good or bad?
I have no idea how to take one out so can anyone help

Also how much would a new (better torque converter be)
 

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If you mean a straight installation of new tranny (not changing to a different type tranny) the hardest part is paying for the transmission. that is assuming you have all the tools necessary. (for example a tranny jack)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no, no tranny jack,
Uhm,
like anyone have instruction about how to un install one and re install?
 

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Took one out with two floor jacks and planning on putting it in my car my same way. One jack at the bell housing and one at the cross member.

-Miller
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ANyone have any instructions, also, what should i look for in a new one, what about a torque converter should i get a newer (better one) with a higher stall?
How much for one.

I dont know ive never touched a tranny, i think i can figure out how to get on off by taking out that bad one, but i want to save what i need
 

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It's real freakin hard when the tranny mount bolts round off.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
..... ok, but is there any instructions on how todo it, i dont wanna screw anything up...
Also, again, what do i look for when looking for a tranny, and would it be a good idea to get a new torque converter with a higher stall (how much would it cost)
 

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I have the chiltons for this at home, but I would have to copy all the pages in order to show you. Later tonight (and I mean prob. close to 11pm or so), I will take a few dig. photos of the pages themselves, and then just type it up as the book says. I pulled one from a 96 cougar 3.8l, and had never had any experience in the MN12 platform previously, and I managed to get it out, change the seal I needed (front pump seal), and reinstall it and drive it after 2 days(weekend job) with the help of that book. You don't necessarily NEED a trans. jack, but it is darn helpful. I hate trying to muscle around a tranny w/conveter in it still, all the way to the ground by just a jack and my 2 hands. I used a floor jack, 4 jackstands, and a lot of luck. If you can't get the info you need, I'll post a new thread on it for you to follow.


As far as converters go, I'm sure Dan Newman or maybe even Dennis R would have something for you. Do a quick search and see what you can turn up. There has been many a discussions concerning converters, and it would be impossible to know exactly what you are looking for performance wise(and $$ wise).
 

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I just swapped a nearly new tranny from a 99 Mustang Gt from a guy who converted to a manual. The Mustang torque conv won't work because it is smaller in diameter. Mustang flywheel won't fit due to more bolts in the crank flange. You either have to swap cranks to use the mustang stuff or use a torque converter from a Mark VIII or Maurauder. If you swap to the Mark or Maurauder converter, you'll need the cooresponding flywheel. Ford stamps these ^%()_ things where you can't even re-drill for the smaller converters. If you swap in a newer used tranny you will need to plan for the following:
1) Re-arrange the pins in the main electrical connector. A safety pin works good to unlock them. BTW the diagram given in the Transmission 101 articles is inverted (the diagram is looking into the transmission end, not upward into the plug which you will be changing - learned the hard way when it wouldn't go)
2) swap out the TCC if you have an 95 or older-Check the resistance to be sure - the newer version has 10-15 Ohms
3) Use your MLPS as they changed in 98
4) Use your linkage shaft. the Mustang one is round with a plastic bushing.
5) Replace the driven speedometer gear and retainer clip with the orange 20 tooth one if you have 3.27 rear gear and are using a 98 and up replacement transmission as they machined more teeth on the shaft.

As for removal and re-install. It is easy to get to the top bolts with the use of two long(24" extensions preferably one with a wobble). Lifting the tranny is difficult when the car is barely high enough to get it in and out. I had to use a stack of blocks under the tailshaft until I could get the floor jack under it. I was never completly comfortable with it up on 3 ton jack stands. If there is a next time I'll pay someone to do it.
 

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Just to give you an idea, I paird $400 for a shop to swap my broken transmission for a 98 Lincoln mark one. I proveded the tranny obviously.

The shop repinned the connector, changes over the MLPS.

Just keep the price in mind before you buy a tranny jack, and spend a week under the car...

-Andrey
 

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Generalee said:
The Mustang torque conv won't work because it is smaller in diameter. Mustang flywheel won't fit due to more bolts in the crank flange. You either have to swap cranks to use the mustang stuff or use a torque converter from a Mark VIII or Maurauder
thats not true, check the part number for a mark tc and a mustang tc, there the same thing. im running a mark/mustang tc in my car with the correct flexplate its a direct fit with the correct parts. just order a 6 bolt flexplate for it to work.

ill be replacing my tc this weekend. my new tc cost me about $950.
 

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Part numbers didn't make my mustang tc fit.
 

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Mark VIII has same TC bolt pattern as a GT, just for 6 bolt cranks. Although, once upon a time I bought a '98 GT converter from a convertible car and the bolt pattern was the exact same as the stock T-bird. I sold it to some guy on here because I was going for the smaller size TC. Strange stuff.
-Rob
 

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Generalee said:
Part numbers didn't make my mustang tc fit.
what flexplate were you using? the stock tbird or the stock mustang????
 

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I was using the stock fexplate. I was prepared to re-drill the bolt pattern which would have been easy enough except some numb skull at Ford had the wisdom to stamp a step into the plate where if you drilled the smaller diameter pattern, you would not be able to start the nuts because of the offset. I knew about the difference in the crank bolts, but the inability to re-drill really bites.
 

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So if I have a 2003 Stang GT tranny and TC all I need to make the 2003 TC work is the Mark VIII flexplate??
 

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96-98 GTs, as well as 01+ GTs, Mark VIIIs, and newer Police Interceptor Vics all come with a 6 bolt crank and the smaller TC.
99-00 GT's, Truck engines, and Cobra engines have 8 bolt cranks.
Non-police Vics, 94-97 Tbirds come with 6 bolt cranks and 12" TCs.
Not sure how many bolts on the crank of the Marauders/Mach1's, but they use the smaller size TC's as well.

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/page2.shtml

I too have used a mustang/mark TC with the 6 bolt flexplate and they work just fine.
 

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im confused, becuase I am going to go this route also, if I get a 99+ tranny, they use a 8 bolt crank case, and the flexplate will not work, so I have to get a 98 tranny for the flexplate to work??? what would I have to do to make the 99+ tranny work?
 

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Get whatever TC you want, and just buy whatever the appropriate flexplate is for it. Year of tranny doesnt matter.
 
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