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Discussion Starter #1
I dont have the money to fix it right now unless i borrow some from the parents. Its clunking about once a day right now and started clunking about a month ago. She needs to take me to florida in 2 weeks and i hope she makes it :)
 

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Who knows! It might last 10 minutes, it might last 10 months. :beek:

But you have to ask yourself this... Do you feel lucky?!? Well do ya?!? :D

How much can it cost to repair a tie rod?! $20 for the tie rod, a couple of wrenches, and a pickle fork?

It only connects your steering wheel to the front tires, so I guess its not really that important... :leftright :D
 

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Definitely not worth the risk. If you are traveling to Florida, and it lets go, who knows what could happen. And if other people are injured because of it, you will pay for that tie-rod for a very long time.

As stated above, cheap and quick to replace.
 

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Don't you be comin' down here to Florida with suspension components about to fail and cause wrecks and kill people and back up traffic! :redmad:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i was informed that it could not be done myself. If it is possible to be done myself ill have it done by the end of the week. Im pretty handy with front end suspension work.
 

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It can be done in a driveway.
 

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Tie Rod End


Steering Gear Installed


Removal

1. Remove and discard the cotter pin and nut from the worn tie rod end (3A130).

2. Disconnect tie rod end from LH front wheel knuckle (3K185)/RH front wheel knuckle (3K186), using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.

3. Holding the tie rod end with a wrench, loosen the tie rod end jam nut.

4. Note the depth to which the tie rod end was located by using the jam nut as a marker. Grip the tie rod end with a pair of suitable pliers, and remove the tie rod end.


Installation

1. Clean the tie rod end threads.

2. Thread the tie rod end to the same depth as the removed tie rod end.

3. Place the tie rod end into the LH front wheel knuckle/RH front wheel knuckle. Ensure front wheels are in the straight ahead position.

4. Install a new nut on the tie rod end. Tighten the nut to 53 N-m (39 lb-ft), and continue tightening the nut to align the next castellation of the nut with the cotter pin hole in the stud. Install a new cotter pin.

5. Set toe to specification. Refer to «Section 04-00». Tighten the jam nut to 48-68 N-m (35-50 lb-ft).


From the 95 CD. Have fun.
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #9
grrrrr... i have the 95 cd someone just misinformed me at the time when i did my ball joints. Thanks... itll def be done by the end of next weekend so that i wont kill anybody in FL. Rockauto and moog parts I assume?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
put the new ones one and im still getting a different creaking... at least i have some peace of mind now thought knowing that anything that could break and cause me to loose control is replaced. This did fix the tie rod creak though... the new creak is really quiet so ill probably just let it go. Thanks for the help guys. Too bad i had to get 2 alignments instead of just one to sold these problems.
 

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so let me get this straight....you have enough paper to go to florida from misery, but dont have enough to fix the car......dont bother, when it lets go and you total the car, then think about it.
 

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Are you needing to replace the Tie Rod? Or the Tie Rod end? they are different parts and have different procedures to replace.
 

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well, it's about 2 years too late don't you think so?
 

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LOL I gotta start paying attention to the dates on these things!
 

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noob...
 

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This needed to be bumped again for those who didn't catch the fact that this thread is over 2 years old now....... I say don't replace the tie rods, let 'em break!!!! :D
 
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