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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 95 LX V8, no cats flowmaster catback, removed air slicer, NGK plugs, performance wires, K&N filter, and Lighting MAF sensor. Not much but its a start, going with a chip and rear end this summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks: I was hope for a few more.... but that good, i want to get to about 200 at the wheels the chip should give 5-8, pullies about 5 damn!! its not looking good for me.:( oh well

thanks for the help
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yep, so i guess the L-MAF is the same a stock then. I was told the EEC couldn't them apart, but i plan on getting the chip then i'll be okay.
 

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No, the LMAF is NOT the same as a stock unit. Stock is like 65mm or something and a LMAF is either 80 or 90mm. I would put the stock one back on until you get a chip burned for that MAF, otherwise you will most likely have some serious problems running the LMAF and issues within the engine later on.

Joe
 

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It's not the size of the LMAF as much as the electronics. The transfer function in the LMAF is nothing like the stock MAF.

The MAF sends electronic impulses to the eec, giving the EEC the info it needs regarding air flow, baro pressure, etc. the stock eec is tuned to read the impulses as they are sent by the stock eec, the LMAF sends different impulses, and your air/fuel ratio, among other things will be afu.... you could be running fat, or very lean and risk blowing your engine...

Whoever told you that the eec could not tell the difference between the stock and LMAF was actually right.. it can't .. and as the result it thinks the stock one is still connected and running the engine as if it were... Unfortunately this is a bad thing..

At the very least your car is running below it's performance potential.... put the stock MAF back in until you can get a tune or a chip...

-mike
 

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MaleWhore
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where can i get a L MAFs like from a lightning or simular for cheap...is it buying a new one from like dan or would ebay make it...
 

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I would buy a new one, or at least not one from ebay. MAF's are not really a good thing to buy there. You have a much better chance of getting screwed on ebay for a MAF opposed to getting one from dan.

joe
 

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Tinfoil hat wearer
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I bought mine off ebay with no problems..............and it was used too
 

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Dr. FrankenCougie said:
Great...now you woke Dad up !

:tongue:
Actually it was the RED letters that woke me up....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Okay i'll put the stock MAF back on, hope i can find it but the car ran the same to me. maybe a lil rich but not that bad, isn't rich better than lean i know thier both bad but..
oh yeah is 170rwhp about right is so that means i gained about 10 hp from the flowmasters and K&N kit?
 

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Rich is safer than lean, but destroys performance and kills your gas mileage and fouls your plugs...

There really is no way to know what your hp is without a dyno pull... 170 was someone's a guess.. I actually suspect a '96 it might be a bit higher.. I got 176.5 from my '95 after a SCT tune with nothing more than colder plugs and a colder t-stat... '95's are notoriously less powerful than '96's in stock condition..

My '96 pulled around 190rwhp with underdrive pulleys, CAI, true duals, GT MAF and a chip... I'd guess with a chip, you'd be around 180, but not running rich like you say you are (look at your plugs to be sure)... without the tune, 165-170 might be pretty close...

If your curious what a tune will do for a stock engine, here's a baseline graph of my '95 before the tune:



Leave the HP and TQ number aside for now.. look at the A/F curve... like a roller coaster and way too lean..

Here's the after tune graph:



Flat line A/F curve is the trademark of the SCT tunes.. that's what a chip will do for you, and allow you to use colder plugs and t-stat and add some timing to take advantage of high octane fuel...

The TQ curves speak for themselves...

It may appear that the pre tune HP is higher, but while the peak number may be, overall there is more power throughout the power band after the tune... it's the area under the curve that matters, not the peak.. and how long the peak sustains power before dropping.. the more area under the curve, the better performance overall...

-mike
 

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Lee95T-Bird said:
Okay i'll put the stock MAF back on, hope i can find it but the car ran the same to me. maybe a lil rich but not that bad, isn't rich better than lean i know thier both bad but..
oh yeah is 170rwhp about right is so that means i gained about 10 hp from the flowmasters and K&N kit?
You mean a little lean?
 

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Boost Happy
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it depends on the milage that you have the 94-95 usually dyno lower i know i had every bolt on and i couldt make more then 175rwhp and 241 trq my bottom end ist in its best condition my c/r is low so it kills hp , how its a different story i make alot more come to milan dragway on the 25th of this month we are all gone meet there .



Jurgen
 

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Jurgen,

I'd love to join ya, but it's a bit out of my range... and since GB is still morphing, I'd have to run the '95 and running high 15's just doesn't have the appeal it used to.. :D ;)

Post your slips, I'm anxious to see how you do...

-mike
 

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96 GoldBird said:
Jurgen,

I'd love to join ya, but it's a bit out of my range... and since GB is still morphing, I'd have to run the '95 and running high 15's just doesn't have the appeal it used to.. :D ;)

Post your slips, I'm anxious to see how you do...

-mike
I would love to run goldbird i dont know about after when its all done but as it was it would have been a good race , now you can run me with the 95 you run 15's no big deal you know i alwayes leave on green lights :uppoint: you might just cross the finish line before me or not LOL this time i will show you some slip and some good r/t i am going up there at like 9am let the bird cool for an hour and run at 10 am becouse when i gone it never gets a break .


Jurgen
 
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