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With more and more people getting junkyard Speedometers, and SHO speedos and such, I decided to do a quick little write-up on how to adjust the Odometer. This is on a SHO speedometer, the Tbird is almost identical. I got a 96 SHO speedometer with 103k miles on it and wanted to roll it back to be "correct" for my 69k mile Tbird.

First you have to remove the Needle. The back edge of a butter knife works great. Go slow and be careful not to bend the shaft.


Flip the speedo over and remove the 3 small bolts. The size is something between 4.5mm and 5mm I didn't
have the size so I used a small set of pliers. Be sure to sit the speedo on something soft so you dont break the ODO reset button.


After removing the 3 bolts you can remove the top part and unplug the small connector.


Then remove the ODO wheel housing.


On the ends of the ODO wheel the metal pin is snapped into a groove in the housing. Just pop the wheel
out of the housing. The gear on the other end will fall off so dont lose it.


At this point if your Tbird ODO works, you could remove the wheel from your tbird speedo and pop it in and put
everything back together. Or you could adjust this wheel to the reading of your choice


With the wheel out, you can use a butter knife again to pry the white plastic gear toward the end of the shaft.
Be careful of the retainers inside the white plastic gear as they will break easily. You just need to slide it maybe 1/4" away from the rollers.


Once there is a little room to slide the rollers away from each other, you can begin setting each wheel where you want it. Be careful to keep the plastic retainers all set in position with each other. Some of the rollers may not want to go back flush with each other, just wiggle it a bit and it will sync. There is a 2 sided gear between each wheel that has to mesh. If you want to you could also slide everything off the pin and re-set the wheels one at a time. Once you get it where you want it, use your fingers to slide the white gear back toward the rollers and that will lock the wheels into place. Then put it all back together the same way it came apart.

The old & the new:

 

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nice thread Jason..I always use a fork for taking off the needle..

Rayo..
 

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You may want to do the wheel adjusting with some surgical gloves on. The wheels are very susceptible to holding trace from your fingers and can actually start to show fingerprints later on. Serious, no bull. :)
 

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Nice write up Jason! :thumbsup:

I know people are always asking questions about doing this or repairing the odometer, I'm going to Sticky this thread.

I'm not sure if it belongs in the Interior forum, we'll keep it here! ;) :rofl:

Joe
 

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you mean its that easy?? And after I spent all that time searching for a SHO speedo cluster with the same miles on it that I had on my car! ;)

Seriously, Nice write up.
 

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Might want to add a disclaimer seeing this is a federal crime. Not trying to be a party pooper,but for your safety,heh. Some liberal a-holes could see this as a blueprint for fraud.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Might want to add a disclaimer seeing this is a federal crime. Not trying to be a party pooper,but for your safety,heh. Some liberal a-holes could see this as a blueprint for fraud.
Changing your ODO reading is not illegal. Lying about the ODO reading accuracy during the sale of a vehicle is illegal, and I can't be held responsible for someone doing that. :)
 

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The laws vary by State. Some say any tampering is illegal and some say that misrepresenting the actual mileage is illegal.

The Federal law states:
FEDERAL ODOMETER LAW Motor Vehicle Cost Information Act, 49 U.S.C. Section 32704

1. (It shall be unlawful for a person) "with intent to defraud, operate a motor vehicle on a street, road, or highway if the person knows that the odometer of the vehicle is disconnected or not operating; or

2. The owner of the vehicle or agent of the owner shall attach a written notice to the left door frame of the vehicle specifying the mileage before the service, repair, or replacement and the date of the service, repair, or replacement.

3. A person transferring ownership of a motor vehicle shall give the transferree the following written disclosure

A) Disclosure of the cumulative mileage registered on the odometer,

B) Disclosure that the actual mileage is unknown if the transferror knows that the odometer reading is different from different from the number of miles the vehicle has actually traveled.

(b) Mileage Statement Requirement for Licensing. - (1) A motor vehicle the ownership of which is transferred may not be licensed for use in a State unless the transferee, in submitting an application to a State for the title on which the license will be issued, includes with the application the transferor's title and, if that title contains the space referred to in paragraph (3)(A)(iii) of this subsection, a statement, signed and dated by the transferor, of the mileage disclosure required under subsection (a) of this section
So even if you do a repair that sets the mileage to the actual mileage, you are still required (by Federal law) to place a notice on the car. I went through that with a Porsche 928 speedometer that "failed" by adding 100 miles every time you drove 10 miles.

I would simply recommend to anyone doing this modification to check their local laws for guidance. :thumbsup:
 

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If you really want to make it EZ Simply removed the motor and gear, then pop the odometer out and swap it for your factory 97 odometer. They are both the same part and you don't need to spend 30mins setting the numbers.

I did mine tonight in 5mins.
 

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Pre-97 procedure

If you put a note on the car and mention it to the next owner this is perfectly legal. If you are not selling the car then its a moot point.


For the older pre 97 odometers there is a bank of gears on the top of the odometer numbers. There is a thin metal rod holding the gears in place. You do not need to remove the needle!

Take a pair of precision pliers, and engage the metal rod. Push the metal rod from the opposite end (motor side)so it slides out of the housing. Put the rod aside. Remove the tiny gear pieces with your precision pliers.

Now play spin the bottle with the numbers, and put everything back! Make sure the gear train engages the cogs correctly. Use the speedo face as a guide for your numbers. Put gears back one at a time as you slide the shaft in and verify they can advance the next digit. If you don't do this correctly you will stall your odometer.

Also here is a tip to align your 94-96 needle. The needle stops on the high side just to the left of the k on the km/h marking. If you look at it head on, the needle should look like the k is sitting on the needle like a see saw. The needle should block any portion of the k or leave any gap.

For zero calibration, there should be a tiny (maybe 1mm?) gap between the odometer post and the needle. In other words you should meet the zero line exactly. You should not have the needle resting on the post with no gap. You cant be off by more than 1 mph with this procedure.
 

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Some States You Must Write In The Milege

If you put a note on the car and mention it to the next owner this is perfectly legal. If you are not selling the car then its a moot point.


For the older pre 97 odometers there is a bank of gears on the top of the odometer numbers. There is a thin metal rod holding the gears in place. You do not need to remove the needle!

Take a pair of precision pliers, and engage the metal rod. Push the metal rod from the opposite end (motor side)so it slides out of the housing. Put the rod aside. Remove the tiny gear pieces with your precision pliers.

Now play spin the bottle with the numbers, and put everything back! Make sure the gear train engages the cogs correctly. Use the speedo face as a guide for your numbers. Put gears back one at a time as you slide the shaft in and verify they can advance the next digit. If you don't do this correctly you will stall your odometer.

Also here is a tip to align your 94-96 needle. The needle stops on the high side just to the left of the k on the km/h marking. If you look at it head on, the needle should look like the k is sitting on the needle like a see saw. The needle should block any portion of the k or leave any gap.

For zero calibration, there should be a tiny (maybe 1mm?) gap between the odometer post and the needle. In other words you should meet the zero line exactly. You should not have the needle resting on the post with no gap. You cant be off by more than 1 mph with this procedure.
EACH YEAR ...WHEN YOU GET YOUR REGISTRATION ...ALSO IF YOU GET INSPECTION THE MILEAGE IS SENT TO THE STATE ...SO IF YOU SELL THE CAR THERE IS MANY WAYS TO GET YOU IF YOU LIE ...DON,T BE FOOLISH & TRY TO CHEAT SOMEONE ...YOU WILL BE IN TROBLE :eek:
 

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ThunderRoad ??? Thats YOU ???

EACH YEAR ...WHEN YOU GET YOUR REGISTRATION ...ALSO IF YOU GET INSPECTION THE MILEAGE IS SENT TO THE STATE ...SO IF YOU SELL THE CAR THERE IS MANY WAYS TO GET YOU IF YOU LIE ...DON,T BE FOOLISH & TRY TO CHEAT SOMEONE ...YOU WILL BE IN TROBLE :eek:
Looking at your Join Date and age, it's hart to believe! All CAPS ON and missing the point of the OP. Did your grandson hack in? Another thread closed (soon, my post Ad's to it), Thanks.
Let's better start a new one with the same questions, rather then following up and improving good info.

-Maic (yes, almost out a here)
 

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now i am startigng to question the mileage on the 95 tbird i just bought with only 24,580 miles. heh. the body though is in great shape and interior immaculate so i think ti is right
 

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OK... I apologize for my spur of the moment comment. Point is, the man went through the trouble to show us how to fix a common problem with our cars. Crooks already know how to do this. No need to drag the Feds and NSA into it. Our politicians use "plausible deniability" every day. Odometer reading?? Unknown.
 

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When my odometer failed, I kept track of my mileage. This was possible by driving places I already knew the distance of, plus a couple of special trips calculated via Google Maps. I logged each trip down to the tenth of a mile and added it all up.

When I installed my new odometer gears, I rolled the mileage forward to reflect the actual mileage of the car. Due to slight inaccuracies (hundredths of a mile, parking lot maneuvers, etc.), I estimate that it is off by no more than 10 miles. That is a conservative figure; the truth is that it's likely off by no more than two miles.

Technically, I probably shouldn't have touched it. But I decided it would have been more fraudulent to leave it alone. One of those rare cases where the spirit of the law goes against the letter.
 

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It really doesn't matter unless you're a car dealer, I kept track during the period my gears were bad simply for my own OCD purposes but I'm sure it's off by a good amount. Given the fact that these cars aren't exactly worth a lot to begin with and as 90s cars generally wear their actual mileage very visibly unless babied, I think it would be pretty obvious if the odometer were inaccurate.
 
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