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Heh, here's a stupid question. How do I go about changing the fual filter on my 95 4.6L LX?
How to change fuel filter?
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Easy.
all you'll need is the filter and a screw driver.
First, turn on your car, and pop the trunk. then on the side of the trunk, there is a fuel pump shut-off. Activate it. Engine will stall. Now turn your ignition off. On the passenger side right below the door is your fuel filter. It's held on by hose clamps. take them off. now the filter is held in place by two plastic clips. push the screw driver between the clip and connection, and TWIST. Now pull out with your finger. There will be some fuel coming out so close your eyes just in case. now undo the other side the same way. connect up the new filter. go back to the trunk and de-active the fuel pump shut-off. start up car for afew seconds, and your done.
all you'll need is the filter and a screw driver.
First, turn on your car, and pop the trunk. then on the side of the trunk, there is a fuel pump shut-off. Activate it. Engine will stall. Now turn your ignition off. On the passenger side right below the door is your fuel filter. It's held on by hose clamps. take them off. now the filter is held in place by two plastic clips. push the screw driver between the clip and connection, and TWIST. Now pull out with your finger. There will be some fuel coming out so close your eyes just in case. now undo the other side the same way. connect up the new filter. go back to the trunk and de-active the fuel pump shut-off. start up car for afew seconds, and your done.
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884 Posts
I had a hell of a time getting the front connection loose until I made a tool to push the barbs open to allow the filter to come out.
I took a small piece of steel tube (about 5/8" od X 1/2" id and cut it to about 3/4" long) I then cut a slit the tube down one side with a dremel tool. I pried the tube apart and placed it on the front (outlet) tube of the filter. I then crimped the "tool" back around the tube. Then using a pair of pliers, I shove that into the connection, releasing the barbs. Shove the tool and pull and twist the fileter at the same time.
I'm sure that you can buy/borrow a tool from a auto parts store, but sometimes it's more fun coming up with your own solutions.
I took a small piece of steel tube (about 5/8" od X 1/2" id and cut it to about 3/4" long) I then cut a slit the tube down one side with a dremel tool. I pried the tube apart and placed it on the front (outlet) tube of the filter. I then crimped the "tool" back around the tube. Then using a pair of pliers, I shove that into the connection, releasing the barbs. Shove the tool and pull and twist the fileter at the same time.
I'm sure that you can buy/borrow a tool from a auto parts store, but sometimes it's more fun coming up with your own solutions.
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1,739 Posts
I found at autozone a quick disconnect tool kit for fuel and a/c lines it was like $7. Its just a piece of plastic that you clip on the line then slide it into the barbed fitting and it comes off. I messed with mine for a hour and after i bought these i did it in less then 5 min.
The right tool always make the job faster.
The right tool always make the job faster.
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8,239 Posts
First of all.
ok guys,
don't attempt to rig the job by trying to take the filter off with a screwdriver. You risk damaging the fuel line, and nobody wants leaky fuel. Get the fuel disconnect tool from pep boys for seven bucks, and keep it in your toolbox. Its a little flimsy plastic thing, but it takes the filter off in one minute, and you don't risk leaky fuel line.
Justin
ok guys,
don't attempt to rig the job by trying to take the filter off with a screwdriver. You risk damaging the fuel line, and nobody wants leaky fuel. Get the fuel disconnect tool from pep boys for seven bucks, and keep it in your toolbox. Its a little flimsy plastic thing, but it takes the filter off in one minute, and you don't risk leaky fuel line.
Justin
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4,085 Posts
Ok, time for the question I should have asked in my original post. What filter should I get, how much is it, and how can I tell if my current one is clogged?
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1,739 Posts
I just got one for autozone/crappy one. It was like $15 and you can tell if its clogged by blowing in it. If you feel air come out the other side well that its not clogged. And if you dont feel air, well you know.
Doesn't ford say to replace it every like 30,000 miles or something like that?
Doesn't ford say to replace it every like 30,000 miles or something like that?
i just confirmed for my own well-being, you cannot disconnect the barb fitting with a screwdriver. maybe if you had 8 very small screw drivers, fingers the size of thumb-tacks and the hands of a surgeon, then maybe you could do it...
but for the most of us... spend the 7 or 15 bucks on the quick disconnect tool
but for the most of us... spend the 7 or 15 bucks on the quick disconnect tool
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96 Posts
So this is a dumb question, but I have yet to change my fuel filter on my 94 XR7. I used to own a 2003 Taurus LX which had the white horseshoe type clips that fit through the fitting and locked it down. Does my Cougar use similar fittings? Because I broke one on my Taurus and places wanted almost $10 for two new ones. I wont pay that much for tiny pieces of plastic unless they are odometer gears lol.
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127 Posts
my 95 bird had one of those on the tank side and a press type clamp on the engine side.
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1,147 Posts
Fuel filter on my '95 Thunderbird LX 4.6L. Filter is located on passenger side frame rail just behind the front wheel well.
For removal, first purge residual fuel pressure at the schrader valve located on fuel rail, by pressing the pin down with a small screwdriver. Engine Off. Key Off. There is a cap that unscrews from the valve, and use a rag, and cover the valve while purging the system to avoid the spray of gasoline.
The are two 8mm bolts holding the shield in place. Use anti-seize compound on the threads upon re-instillation for ease of removal in the future. The worm gear clamp holds the filter canister to the shield.
Once the shield is dropped remove the retaining clip from the inlet side (tank side) of the line connector using a small flat tipped screwdriver, and pull apart. Caution: Gas will pour out of the line from the force of gravity so use a container to catch the gas, and keep the line up while conducting the remove, and renew procedure.
Once that line is detached loosen the worm gear clamp, and slide the shield back, remove, and set aside.
Next remove the retaining clip from the outlet side (engine side) of the fuel filter connector. If so equipped.
Use a quick disconnect tool to remove this line by placing the right size tool around the line, and pressing it into the connector, and gently pull the line from the filter.
Reverse order to install. Make sure the filter is installed in the right direction. There is an arrow on must filters that shows the proper direction of fuel flow. And/or marked "inlet/outlet".
You don't need the quick disconnect tool to install the outlet line, just push it together until you feel/hear a positive coupling of components. As with both lines, once they are together try to pull them apart gently to make sure they a fitted correctly.
Once everything is back together turn the key to the On position, and check for leaks.
For removal, first purge residual fuel pressure at the schrader valve located on fuel rail, by pressing the pin down with a small screwdriver. Engine Off. Key Off. There is a cap that unscrews from the valve, and use a rag, and cover the valve while purging the system to avoid the spray of gasoline.
The are two 8mm bolts holding the shield in place. Use anti-seize compound on the threads upon re-instillation for ease of removal in the future. The worm gear clamp holds the filter canister to the shield.
Once the shield is dropped remove the retaining clip from the inlet side (tank side) of the line connector using a small flat tipped screwdriver, and pull apart. Caution: Gas will pour out of the line from the force of gravity so use a container to catch the gas, and keep the line up while conducting the remove, and renew procedure.
Once that line is detached loosen the worm gear clamp, and slide the shield back, remove, and set aside.
Next remove the retaining clip from the outlet side (engine side) of the fuel filter connector. If so equipped.
Use a quick disconnect tool to remove this line by placing the right size tool around the line, and pressing it into the connector, and gently pull the line from the filter.
Reverse order to install. Make sure the filter is installed in the right direction. There is an arrow on must filters that shows the proper direction of fuel flow. And/or marked "inlet/outlet".
You don't need the quick disconnect tool to install the outlet line, just push it together until you feel/hear a positive coupling of components. As with both lines, once they are together try to pull them apart gently to make sure they a fitted correctly.
Once everything is back together turn the key to the On position, and check for leaks.
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885 Posts
New fuel filter should come with those clips anyways.
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