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bad93bird said:
Let me know how it turns out. I'm curious still. I got my T4MO ECM last week. Now I need the Tweecer and laptop.
I did it on my 93 and it worked just fine. The resistor was on the back of the gauge cluster just like Al showed. I did have to put an extension on the oil sender though. You will need it extended out about 2 inches. I used brass plumbing fittings. You'll need about a 1 1/2" male/male 1/4" pipe extension and a 1/4" female to female fitting. Otherwise you won't be able to clear the block.

My gauge reads at just beyond the "M" in "NORM".
 

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Whining Intakes Rock
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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Here are some shots of the gauge.

Engine off:


Just after starting engine:


After running for about 5 minutes:



These next two will show the gauge reading at 1500-ish rpm and at idle:





The gauge will read to the left when the oil is hot.
 

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This works great! I have a gauge pod with a auto meter oil pressure gauge and water temp. gauge in it. When cold at part throttle I carry 100 psi of oil pressure according to the auto meter gauge and the now modified factory gauge also shows the same. Just for the count, my resistor was on the back of the cluster also.

Marl :cool:
 

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MaddMartigan said:
I did it on my 93 and it worked just fine. The resistor was on the back of the gauge cluster just like Al showed. I did have to put an extension on the oil sender though. You will need it extended out about 2 inches. I used brass plumbing fittings. You'll need about a 1 1/2" male/male 1/4" pipe extension and a 1/4" female to female fitting. Otherwise you won't be able to clear the block.

My gauge reads at just beyond the "M" in "NORM".
Why did you have to extend it was your original sender setup diffrent than AI_Florida's? Because in the pics he posted it looks like its just a straight screw in.

I'm just wondering because I'm thinking about doing it this weekend sence I have to take my cluster out to reseat my slosh module anyway.
 

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kraken2026 said:
Why did you have to extend it was your original sender setup diffrent than AI_Florida's? Because in the pics he posted it looks like its just a straight screw in.

I'm just wondering because I'm thinking about doing it this weekend sence I have to take my cluster out to reseat my slosh module anyway.
Yeah, my setup is different. My car is based on a 5.0 and the sender connects directly to the block beside the front cover. Definitely not the same location.
 

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MaddMartigan said:
Yeah, my setup is different. My car is based on a 5.0 and the sender connects directly to the block beside the front cover. Definitely not the same location.
AH ok cool, well cool for me haha should be just a real simple plug in. only down side I guess is I literally just changed my oil last weekend and I got ten bucks you gotta drain the oil otherwise you get a big mess am I right?
 

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Whining Intakes Rock
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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Quick update: If you are having trouble locating the oil sender, example: the parts store cannot look up a part by the part #, then tell them it's from a 1988 Thunderbird with a 5.0L (302) V8.
 

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Neither Murray's or autozone can look it up by part # the only way they can find a part is by the car it was originally on. Apparently they don't even keep the books that have the part number cross referance.

I was able to cross refrence through parts.com and found a mustang site that according to them the 65 thru 89 mustang with gauge is the same sender. I ended up going to murrays and asked for a 86 mustang with a V8 oil pressure sender and they had it. It was only like $11 but was a generic brand and didn't have the teflon already on the threads. I couldn't do the install because I ran out of time from all running around for the part and trying to find another vehical that used it. Once I get a chance to do it I will post my resaultson this other sender and its part number too. O and for the count I had the resistor on my cluster when I pulled it to fix the slosh module.
 

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bad93bird said:
I'm curious why it won't work with the stock pressure sender that's already on the block? Why do I have to buy a new one?
Because its not a sender its a switch. All that happens if you read back in the thread is its eather "on" (gauge somewhere to the right of normal) or "off" (check gauges light is on and gauge reads all the way to the left). The reason this is bad is because the "off" doesn't occure untill 7psi which your engine wants around 30 psi. Also if you have a block in the oil system and your pressure was pegged really high that would mean you are starving other areas of the engine from oil which the gauge won't tell you. So you could be burn up your moter and not even know it. The aftermarket sender we are installing reads from 0 to 60 psi so you will know if you have a problem way before the point of damage.

Also if anyone is interested the sender I got was for an "86 mustang with gauge" and was a "GOP" brand OPS71. I checked today and the sender for the 88 T-bird 302 is the same unit. Just as a warning they list the with electric gauge sender for the 88 bird as the same dummy switch we already have. If you do this mod you'll want the other one.
 

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Whining Intakes Rock
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Discussion Starter #54
Did you read this thread? At all? From the beginning? Each post?
 

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bad93bird said:
I'm curious why it won't work with the stock pressure sender that's already on the block? Why do I have to buy a new one?
bad93bird said:
So which sender do I want?
If you've read any of this and still need to ask... fuggetaboutit it's over your head. As Martha Stewart would say, reading comprehension "is a good thing".
 

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Whining Intakes Rock
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Discussion Starter #56
:thumbsup:
 

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I have an interesting situation with the 96 4.6L oil pressure switch. It used to work, pretty much as described here, for an on/off switch connected to a gauge: the needle was always on the M of NORM.

One day, it started reading high, with the needle at high end of the NORM range. I replaced the sensor with a new Motorcraft unit, nothing fancy, just asked for the correct sensor for the 96 4.6L. The new sensor changed nothing, still reading at the high end of NORM.

A few times a year, at the hottest time of the summer (high 80s, or 90s), the gauge will drop back to it's original location, on M.

The vehicle has been running like this for > 100,000 kms, and I don't notice anything changing in idle or performance, when the gauge changes position.

I'm wondering if I have an intermittent thermal failure somewhere in the dash cluster.

Any ideas???
 

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Newt-Billy said:
I have an interesting situation with the 96 4.6L oil pressure switch. It used to work, pretty much as described here, for an on/off switch connected to a gauge: the needle was always on the M of NORM.

One day, it started reading high, with the needle at high end of the NORM range. I replaced the sensor with a new Motorcraft unit, nothing fancy, just asked for the correct sensor for the 96 4.6L. The new sensor changed nothing, still reading at the high end of NORM.

A few times a year, at the hottest time of the summer (high 80s, or 90s), the gauge will drop back to it's original location, on M.

The vehicle has been running like this for > 100,000 kms, and I don't notice anything changing in idle or performance, when the gauge changes position.

I'm wondering if I have an intermittent thermal failure somewhere in the dash cluster.

Any ideas???
If I can remember my electronics classes my guess would be that resistor on the back of the cluster (or on the wire comming from the switch depending on what year you have) has failed and that its letting the full or most of the voltage through
causing it to "read" high.
 

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I have a Autometer oil pressure gauge along with my now modified stock gauge. Both gauges pretty much peg (the Autometer at 100 psi and the stocker at the H mark) at part throttle (less than 2k rpms) when the engine is cold. When the motor is up to operating temp and in gear it idles with about 15-20 psi and runs down the road with about 50 psi. The motor has never been apart and I run Mobil 1 Extended Life 10w30 with a Mobil 1 Extended Life filter. As far as I know it's always been like this. Both gauges mirror the other at all times.

Just some info I thought I would pass along.
 
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