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Eleventeenth Gear Poster
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I thought I read that there are clearance issues with the sway bar when putting a sender in that location? I only need an 1/8" or so for it to fit. If I had the proper tools to fit in there and remove some metal I would have. Maybe next time I guess.
 

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I do have a 45* elbow on mine to clear the sway bar. The Nordskog unit is huge though.
 

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yeah. i had an aftermarket sender in the 97 on the old engine and fabbed up some adapter rig for it too
 

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It turns out thay my 90 psi sending unit is fine with my gauge. I just need to do a better soldering job around the resistor. On the way to Texas the gauge worked normally for awhile until I hit a bump that caused the wire to stop making contact again. I've been too busy to fix it but at least I don't have to spend $30 for the motorcraft sensor.
 

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I am not thrilled with mine. I think I need to get the better motorcraft sensor. It works great when It is cold, but when it warms up it doesnt register anything at idle in gear, like at a stop sign it will just bottom out with no pressure. come up just a couple (50 or so) rpm and the check guages light goes out and the guage goes back to a normal reading.
 

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Short wire

Has anyone had trouble with the wire being too short?

I put in the motorcraft sender today and had to really do some stretching.

Haven't done the resistor yet but did notice the guage is now up a bit and the

light has gone off.

I'll try to pull the loom tomorrow when I have more time.

Thanks to all for your posts on this. :)
 

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Has anyone had trouble with the wire being too short?

I put in the motorcraft sender today and had to really do some stretching.

Haven't done the resistor yet but did notice the guage is now up a bit and the

light has gone off.

I'll try to pull the loom tomorrow when I have more time.

Thanks to all for your posts on this. :)
Yeah, I had a problem with it being too short too. I could reach the sender but there wasn't enough slack to screw it on. I just cut off the connector, replaced it with a ring connector and used a nut to hold it in place. Now if I could only do a good enough soldering job to keep the jumper in place.
 

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Bumping,

What a great idea, never thought of replacing the idiot light 'gauge' with an actual pressure reader.

Am calling up my local Stealership now to order one, this is a MUST have 'mod'.

Thanks to Lonnie for starting this and all you other guys who've somewhat pioneered this :).
 

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Reading a how-to on the mustang site (corral), the article suggests using a diode to prevent current going back down toward the oil pressure sensor.

Is this necessary, or just a good idea?
 

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Whining Intakes Rock
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Discussion Starter #131
Waste of time.
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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OK for the record my 94 LX had the resistor behind the gauges. I used an Autozone OPSU called "PS4 oil pressure" for the 88 tbird 5.0. This works perfectly much like Al Florida's job. No hiccups what so ever except the oil spilling on the driveway where the K-member has the spout. On start up it reads 0 but rises with idle and goes up and down with revving it.
 

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3rd Gear Chirper
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Just a word of advice: do not get the Niehoff brand sensor from Autozone or anywhere else. Every Niehoff electrical component I've had (which is like 4 toggle switches and that sender) was junk. They couldn't make a light switch to light their way out of a sh**hole, lol.

I used Echlin before that, and it was great. I wonder if this will work on a 87 'Bird with digital gauges? Guess I'll be trying that next...
 

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Bump,

Finally got around to doing this project.

Borrowed Dad's 1" 12 point socket, it's too short to clear the stem of the OEM sensor. Hey, it's junk anyways right - snap it off, slide socket over, remove sensor.

Stick new one in - nope, it won't clear the block.

Now what?

I have the guts of the old one here, have done the blow/suck test on it to see if it'll leak oil under pressure, I think it'll hold, so it's going back in for now until I can locate an elbow of sorts

Why didn't Ford just put in a proper sensor in the first place? Friggen $2 cost for them I bet.

Edit - put the old unit back in, no leakage at idle. Gauge shows zero pressure (hey, the old one worked!), and 'Check Gauges' light is on.

Have a NPT 45 degree elbow in the works for tomorrow morning, will see if that solves this problem.
 

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Hate replying to myself, but somebody might want this info in the future;

5.0 block - get a 1/4" 45 degree NPT fitting, works like a charm. Kinda tough to get it to thread in through that convoluted area, but it works. Have the new pressure sensor in there, clears everything, and with it twisted up a bit the OEM wiring even reaches.

Gauge cluster shown on page 1 is upside down! Don't look at the temp gauge and think of soldering a wire over that - it's the one directly behind the oil pressure gauge (duh!).

Works great, my car used to sit just a tad to the right of the "L", and always worried me. Now it sits rock solid in the center after warming up and running down the road.

It's movements are slow though, is that normal? If I rev the car, shouldn't the gauge 'spike' a bit?
 

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Whining Intakes Rock
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Discussion Starter #137
Hate replying to myself, but somebody might want this info in the future;

5.0 block - get a 1/4" 45 degree NPT fitting, works like a charm. Kinda tough to get it to thread in through that convoluted area, but it works. Have the new pressure sensor in there, clears everything, and with it twisted up a bit the OEM wiring even reaches.

Gauge cluster shown on page 1 is upside down! Don't look at the temp gauge and think of soldering a wire over that - it's the one directly behind the oil pressure gauge (duh!).

Works great, my car used to sit just a tad to the right of the "L", and always worried me. Now it sits rock solid in the center after warming up and running down the road.

It's movements are slow though, is that normal? If I rev the car, shouldn't the gauge 'spike' a bit?
I believe someone already mentioned having to use a 45 fitting but thanks for the reminder.

The cluster was photographed upside down. Good catch. Everyone - Make sure you modify your 710 gauge! It's the one above and to the right of the 77I light.


Modifying the 710 gauge. ;) Good lord that's a bad solder job. :tongue:

The sending unit works on pressure. It will be a bit slower and seem to "lag" since your oil pressure doesn't spike when you goose it. It's normal.
 

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The sending unit works on pressure. It will be a bit slower and seem to "lag" since your oil pressure doesn't spike when you goose it. It's normal.
Sounds good then, I won't worry about it. I haven't been in very many gas engined cars/trucks with an actual gauge, so there's nothing to compare it too.

Bad solder job? Could be worse :D! Mine isn't pretty, but it's solid. I bought this POS:



Don't make the same mistake! Use a real soldering iron.

Al - thanks for the original idea, inspiration, write-up, and support :).
 

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Sounds good then, I won't worry about it. I haven't been in very many gas engined cars/trucks with an actual gauge, so there's nothing to compare it too.

Bad solder job? Could be worse :D! Mine isn't pretty, but it's solid. I bought this POS:

http://www.asontv.com/electronics-and-gadgets/images/ch-01cold-heat-soldering-tool_250x250.jpg

Don't make the same mistake! Use a real soldering iron.

Al - thanks for the original idea, inspiration, write-up, and support :).
Oh, how could those be a bad idea? My basic instinct always tells me to put my soldering iron in my shirt pocket after use:D
 

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Eh, the price was right ;). Gonna donate it to a neighbor, let him have 'fun' with it :D.
 
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