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Not all of the 94/95's did it was part of the lighting package. There were also light-up ones for 96/97 but I haven't seen those for ages.
there where? I always thought people swapped 95 lock cylinders into 96+ handles, but that wasn't the case?

I ordered the very last brand new pacific green passenger side handle today :) :(

As for 89-95 handles, there are quite a few drivers side handles available new, absolutely NO passenger side handles...if there where I'd "downgrade" to them
 

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there where? I always thought people swapped 95 lock cylinders into 96+ handles, but that wasn't the case?

I ordered the very last brand new pacific green passenger side handle today :) :(

As for 89-95 handles, there are quite a few drivers side handles available new, absolutely NO passenger side handles...if there where I'd "downgrade" to them
Yeah, back when I swapped my 94-95 to the 96-97 style our original TCCoA parts dealer had listing for "lighted" and "unlighted" but he didn't know if he could get a hold of any more lighted versions and they were double the cost so I just went with unlighted.

The lock cylinders are different. The part that lights up is flat on the 94-95 and all curved on the 96-97
 

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interesting...I'll look up the lock cylinders and see if there are two versions...even if it's all gone and there are none left, it will still show up as having existed at one time...
 

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I have way too many posts to try and use the search feature to look back to find the thread. lol

Here ya go. Note "Illum Entry" vs this one without
 

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I used a stanless steel rod i had laying around measurd the distance i needed cut a notch in it slid it into the door side "side toward the back of the car" and slide it into place with the spring then used a c clip to hold it into place hence the notch. Havent had to touch it other than doing the same thing to th other side without removing the handles
 

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1/8" thick by 2" wide or so strip of steel from any home/hardware store.


Remove the handle pin that the handle pivots on. I had to slightly grind down a peened over section to be able to pull it out. I used a dremel with a high speed cutter bit to get in there.
Long and skinny needle nose pliers and a pair of linesman pliers helped here.




Trace hook end onto steel. Making sure to also scribe hole for the trip rod.




Cut out the outline.



And drill out the hole for the trip rod. 11/32" I believe.



Cut off old plastic hook. I just hacked it off with a 1/8" cutoff wheel on my grinder. Precision wasn't a big deal.

You have to cut into the blocked off end of the handle so you can insert the new steel hook.




I decided to also have the pivot rod run through the new steel insert. Just trace the hole using the pick or an owl.



Then I installed the new insert, lined up the holes using the pivot rod to keep it in alignment, and drilled 2 more holes so I can put in some reinforcement pins.




I used a couple small nails I had laying around, and drilled the holes to fit. Then I used some plastic epoxy inside the handle and on the new insert for extra help.

Put it all back together, cut off all but 1/8" or so of the nails. Put the handle in a vice and crimped the nails down to hold everything in place. Make sure you only catch the nails..

Reassemble the handle, reinstall in to the door with new rivets..



And you should never have to deal with this $!##$^%@# door handle breaking again! (this was #2 for me!)

BTW, this little tool here has become invaluable for working inside these doors and quite a bit else on these cars.




Took about 45 minutes to do. I've gotten good at working inside the doors..
I need to do this for my 97... anyway to revive the pictures???
 
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