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Premium Member
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288 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
That sucker is hard to get to. I've tried to get it out, but started the strip the head. Before, I continue, I'm looking for suggestions.

I would like to burn it off with an acetylene torch, but that would be a little bit passive-aggressive. :)

Thanks!
 

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Premium Member
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5,862 Posts
Use only a 6 point socket.

If you stripped it a bit, pound a slightly smaller 12 point socket on there with a hammer (that's what I've done in the past).
The reason I used a 12 point if it's stripped is because it's easier to pound on there (unless you can get a smaller 6 point to pound on there, than use it).

Good luck with it!
 

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Premium Member
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299 Posts
If it's stripped it's probably too late but...the setup to reach the bolt, also used to reach the tran's dipstick bolt on the head.

<img src="http://forums.tccoa.com/gallery/image_4187.jpg">

*Edit*
Always pounded smaller sockets onto stripped bolts like Rick suggests with good luck. Have heard people have had good results with these if a smaller socket doesn't work.
Irwin Bolt Extractor
 

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10,270 Posts
You can now also try the gorrila glue socket trick.

You have to spray all the oil off it with brake parts cleaner, but it's my new favorite.

You add gorilla glue to a socket, put it in place, and make sure it can't move. 24 hours later, you can yank it out.

And throw it and the socket away; that stuff does not come off. :)
 

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Premium Member
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288 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
If it's stripped it's probably too late but...the setup to reach the bolt, also used to reach the tran's dipstick bolt on the head.

*Edit*
Always pounded smaller sockets onto stripped bolts like Rick suggests with good luck. Have heard people have had good results with these if a smaller socket doesn't work.
Irwin Bolt Extractor
Thanks!

I've tried several combinations of sockets, extensions and u-joints. I don't remember whether I tried the one you posted.

I have big clumsy hands that don't fit well in tight spaces. Any way you slice this, it's not gonna be pretty. I remember grinding off a starter bolt on a 1964 Ford Galaxie. If I have to, I'll grind off the whole starter. :redmad:

I know I'm not alone. I found this when I did a Google search.

"It is very easy to get to the top bolt from my starter because it is in my ashtray."

http://repairpal.com/how-to-replace-the-starter-on-a-97-ford-thunderbird-342
 

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Premium Member
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288 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
You can now also try the gorrila glue socket trick.

You have to spray all the oil off it with brake parts cleaner, but it's my new favorite.

You add gorilla glue to a socket, put it in place, and make sure it can't move. 24 hours later, you can yank it out.

And throw it and the socket away; that stuff does not come off. :)

Thanks!

I may try that before I grind off the whole starter.
 

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9,966 Posts
oh, and dont put it back on :) tbirdbrain cut mine out when i did my motor swap in '05 and the car stilled ran everyday when i sold it last october. 9 track passes cant be wrong!
 

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Funny - I had no trouble with mine when I did my first torque converter swap. I had the exhaust down, but I had no trouble accessing it. Took me like 2 minutes. :zdunno:
 

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Well I've done this once were some had stripped it push up on starter and break ear off starter, then once it out u can prolly get the bolt out, this is why I antiseize the starter bolts they corrode in there over time

Robert
 

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WOT Junkie and avid corn burner
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That's the way I look at it now after experience. If it sees a lot of heat or has a high chance of corrosion, antiseize the bolts!
 

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Took me a couple hours. I like the wobble sockets with a universal. Make sure it isn't the last bolt you take off. It's actually best to get that one first. And I also left mine out but I used an extra oil filter adapter bolt threaded through the trans with a nut on the back just in case.
 

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1/4" drive stuff
extension to front of starter almost simple. My starter bolt goes back in every time now I haven't had an issue getting em out either. Just did a cobra not to long ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Funny - I had no trouble with mine when I did my first torque converter swap. I had the exhaust down, but I had no trouble accessing it. Took me like 2 minutes. :zdunno:
Yeah, it's real funny... Ford engineers are still LOL about this.

The exhaust is what's in the way. With the exhaust down, getting the top bolt out should be easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well I've done this once were some had stripped it push up on starter and break ear off starter, then once it out u can prolly get the bolt out, this is why I antiseize the starter bolts they corrode in there over time

Robert
I wouldn't hesitate to break an ear off the starter housing. That could save lots of time & frustration.

THANKS for the tip!!
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
1/4" drive stuff
extension to front of starter almost simple. My starter bolt goes back in every time now I haven't had an issue getting em out either. Just did a cobra not to long ago.
Did you use Snap-On tools?

My Craftsman 1/4" drive stuff might break, especially the ratchet. But, I could get a 1/4" breaker bar, or use my 3/8" breaker bar with a 1/4" adapter.

Thanks!


Update:

Long story short, I got the bolt out using a Snap-On 1/4" flex-head ratchet, which is stronger & longer than my Craftsman ratchet... seems like a good excuse to buy a Snap-On ratchet.

With my FAT hands, I just couldn't get in there with 3/8" tools.
 
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