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I just replaced the RF hub last night and I thought i'd post up with what I learned. I searched for some other threads on this subject, but they don't really go into much detail on WHAT you need to do the job. Of course you need a new hub, but furthermore the Chiltons manual was very vague as was anything else I could find by Google-ing it.

Let me start by saying yes, this is pretty easy, provided you have the right tools. This being the crux of my post. To remove the hub, (after you remove the caliper and rotor), I had to use a screwdriver and hammer to remove the "cage" around the spindle nut, which in my case was actually 4 thinner nuts stacked together. You will need a 33mm socket to remove them. The old hub came off with no problem. (The manual states you can use a 2 prong puller to remove it if its being stubborn.) I think a few raps with a hammer would also work. The hub just slides on the spindle. So slide the new hub on and use your new spindle nut you got from NAPA (as in my case) and your new 36mm socket (again, from NAPA) to tighten the nut to 235lb/ft. Put your rotor and caliper back on, re-install the tire and your done.

My old hub was making a growling noise at 35-40mph. After I removed the caliper, I spun it by hand and it spun easily and made several revolutions on its own. After I got the new one on, I gave it a spin test and it only spun 2-3 revs before stopping. I was sure at that point my diagnosis was right and after the road test, I was ecstatic knowing the growling noise was gone.
 

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Great write up. I had waited longer than I care to mention before replacing my hubs. That growling sounded like I had super swampers on the car. LOL.

I would add that a light film of axle grease should be put on the spindle prior to installing the hub.
 

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+1 on the axle grease, nice write up. Good job.
 

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I'll add one correction - that cage? Fits a 36mm for removal also. Or has every time I've done it, no need to remove the cage and the nuts separately.

RwP
 

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Yes that's an axle nut not a cage it's a 36mm
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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Yes that's an axle nut not a cage it's a 36mm
Interesting I saw this 4 stacked nuts on the mark8 axles on my roommates mark8 Maybe someone thought to LOL break open the "cage" so he isnt the first to do this LOL. I bought the 36 mil socket just for this job.
 

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pendejo
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I've seen a Tech article on a differant forum that involves opening the "cage" with a screwdriver, cutting the tabs off with a chisel, then removing the four inner nuts one at a time.

That would take all damn day. I spent $12 on a cheap 36mm socket (in Canada), I see you car get a 36mm Craftsman socket at Sears for $6.99

With the right tools it took me about 15 minutes a side with a jack in my driveway, and I'm a terrible mechanic and just painfully slow in general.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Cool. Thanks for the info on the cage issue. It was dark when i did the swap and it didn't appear to me at the time any socket would fit. Oh...and yes, I did put a little grease on the spindle with the new hub.
 

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huh... so are they packable? i seem to remember the cap saying "do not remove, bearings not serviceable" otherwise i would have repacked them years ago when i got mine, just for the sake of sleeping sound at night.
 

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No, the wheel bearings are sealed units. They're just suggesting that a little lubrication on the spindle that the hub/bearing slides on to wouldn't hurt.
 

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huh, so their kind of the in-between of old re-packable bearings and chases, and the new sealed hubs where you replace the whole damn thing. interesting, well at least i know i don't have the replace the whole spindle when i need wheel bearings :tongue: i was thinking the whole thing was sealed... i mean WOW i don't even have a torque wrench that goes to 250ftlbs
 

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No, the wheel bearings are sealed units. They're just suggesting that a little lubrication on the spindle that the hub/bearing slides on to wouldn't hurt.
The Timken bearings I bought were dry; Make sure, or they won't last too long.

YMMV.
 

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Don't They realize that's a challenge?

Kinda like the paper towel dispenser in the bathroom: "Pull down, tear up." What's unclear about that?



At least the bearings are still (reasonably) round! (mostly)

:rofl:

HMMM: The bearings I took apart (Read as: blew apart with the rear knuckle and a press at 20kpsi) were tapered rollers...

They had had grease on them at one time; the crusty marks were still there. :)
 

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ah, their ball bearings too eh? neat. i might have to just go ahead and tackle that job one of these days, see what happens.

they arnt supposed to come apart like that are they XD wonder if those ball bearings would work in the window motor instead of those plastic dowels :tongue:
 

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I've had hubs off to check them several times and never ever 'broke the cage'. You DO need to use a new cage nut for the left every time you take it off.
And they slide right off unless they've spun considerably.
From Rotors from hell thread.
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Like Term says... not too bad. And it's a 36MM. Blazer and TBird use same .. aint I lucky!

But you sure dont want to wait until they get really bad, here's why:



That's varnish from burnt grease. The hub didnt wiggle or move laterally and spun really well.. too well... difficult to pry off cap. But it was noisy on the road. It took a little effort to pry the hub off but not too bad.

Where I ran into trouble was putting the new one on. I sanded it a little but new would not go on. Lost my cool and try to bang it on with heel of my hand.. which pushed the inner race of the outer bearing out. So I sanded ALL the varnish off



Also.. be sure to torque to specs. 190 ft lbs, at least


Common sense option.. the LEFT SIDE RETAINER MUST be replaced. Get at least one new one and use it on that side.
Reason.. not like the right bearing seizing is goign to spin the right side nut off.

I thought I had a new one but it wasnt. So on the left side, I banged up the threads with a hammer {with backing hammer} Worked well....
 
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