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Discussion Starter #1
I have been contemplating doing the hub swap to atleast my front. Mostly so that it will be easier to get brake rotors (im running 13" cobra brakes), that way i wont have to get the KVR's which are expensive and not as easily available as 4.5 bolt pattern 13" cobra rotors.

However, the wheel situation has me worried. I understand that most mustang wheels are the wrong offset and stick out in the front. Therefore requiring machine work to bring the wheels more inward. So now i'm thinking is the hub swap even worth the extra money and time involved (even though the front swap is bolt on)? Because i run Brad's saleen wheels (5x4.25 bolt pattern, thinking of selling however) would the swap be worth it?

I ask because i want to run brads deep dish bullet wheels whenever they come available. However because i have a stock rear brake set up i was going to run the deep dish bullets from brad in the rear. Then for brake rotor availability run the 4.5 bolt pattern and mustang wheels up front.
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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eh, the only mustang wheels that stick out in front are the 03+ cobras and anniversarys. most of the gt ones and aftermarket ones have a different offset and are flush with the fender.

its definitely worth it if you have cobra brakes IMO, that was a big reason i did the swap, the prices are just so much cheaper when using mustang parts.

also the fronts are easy, 5 minute job on each side with the right tools.
 

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also the fronts are easy, 5 minute job on each side with the right tools.
I was shocked how fast the front went. I could hardly believe it. The rears aren't bad either, just get a shop to change the bearings out for you and it bolts together pretty easily. Fast Ed's bracket requires a little bit of grinding and shaving, but nothing too nasty. It's a comfortable evening job if you have all your parts ready to go.

I did it for the wheel selection mostly. And the brake parts are indeed cheaper. If you're going to do brakes and wheels anyway, it's a cheap easy swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Possibly i will do this swap then. I've researched it a bit and found what you guys are saying, the front is super easy to change. Maybe brad can chime in later and give me the proper wheel specs that i need. I really want to run a staggered set up and as i said before brake parts would be MUCH easier to come by and cheaper. Anyone get used hubs or you guys just buy new?
 

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I did a little research on this a while ago an I figured that the hub swap would be around $200 more expensive than just buying new wheels from Brad in our bolt pattern. So the comparison is fair, I was planning on buying a set of wheels from Ford racing that were about $150 each.

That being said, I think that the fact that you would have all new wheel bearings and brake parts would more than make up for that(my car especially since it has 170K on it). The biggest deciding factor for me was the ease of maintenance. I like to be able to just go to the parts counter and order what I need and them have it in stock, be it for a Mustang or a Thunderbird. I'm hoping to get the swap done on my car later this year.

-Rob
 

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you coudl save some cash by having your existing hubs drilled with a second bolt pattern. no safety concerns there
That's a good point. Possibly i could actually swap the front since that is pretty straight forward then just redrill the back. However, now i'm having trouble finding mustang wheels witht he right offset. The SN95 + New Edge wheels would stick out too much and the S197 wheels would be in too much... The search continues...
 

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hey matt,, squeak! lol the rear wasnt even really that bad, although it would of helped to have the holding fixture cup that ford requires to r&r the rear bearings. that was the worst of the pressing job. really straight forward and thats what took us the longest and matt had to do this when it was 100 out , lol ;)
 

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About 5 years ago I would say that the hub swap was a good idea, but now the options and pricing is much better than it was then. I personally would not do the hub swap. The only advantage that I can see is getting rotors for cheap (Cobra), but nothing other than that.

Russell
 

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well i look at it this way, i have new wheel bearings, hubs, ect. from the swap and being how many miles were on the car at the time, it would have needed some of those parts sooner or later. that with the lower price of cobra rotors its worth it. plus i dont have to tell people i have the "taurus" bolt pattern anymore lol

plus, the wheels i have are not in the tbird bolt pattern.
 

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half inch not that bad , i gonna do mine, on that holding cup and pressing part , did you use a ball joint tool c-frame what are you talking about
 

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you have to do it in a hydraulic press not on the car. and it comes out hard, the cup hold the sindle inthe press , and i didnt have one, it would of made life much easier
 

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so just wheel selection? But by time you would buy wheels, either bird or stang pattern, plus the hub swap, then it is already more expensive....Why couldnt you overhaul the bird hubs & bearings instead of all new stang pattern?

Also if you have drum breaks (rear) would this make it easy to change to disc?
 

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the most expresive part of the this is the rear hubs, the rest is cheap and i mean cheap ! and yes it would be easier to change to disk you still have to drill the kuncles for the brackets though
 

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...However, the wheel situation has me worried. I understand that most mustang wheels are the wrong offset and stick out in the front. Therefore requiring machine work to bring the wheels more inward....
Quite the contrary. Only the 03/04 cobra wheels stick out. And wheels for '05+ cars work very well, but the hub size is a little larger than sn95 wheel, easily solved by a hub ring.


This was my old hub swapped bird with 18x8.5" 35+ offset wheels designed for an 05+ mustang.
 

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The 03 Cobras don't stick out as much as other SN95 wheels since they have a +26mm offset and the others have a +24mm offset. They sit 2mm further in than say, a 17x9 Cobra R designed for a Mustang. And they certainly don't stick out of the fenders. I also had the mounting surfaces machined. I had mine done for about $25 per wheel and they are now only off by 4.5mm from that perfect +36mm offset that we are all aiming for with our 9" wide wheels.
And even after having them machined, I still have at least 3/8" of wheel lip to spindle clearance. Keep in mind that 17" wheels with the same specs will sit closer to the spindle because of its shape and position. Mine are 18x9.
 
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