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Discussion Starter #1
I never seem to have good luck working on them. Hopefully you guys can help me figure out what the problem is.

I picked the car up about a year ago. (90 3.8 Tbird, non ABS) I replaced the head gaskets over the winter, during the repair I removed the lines from the MC to get more room to work with.

My current problem:

The brakes will slow and stop the car. The pedal is very soft after the initial depression. (Hard at first, fades quickly) Once I have the car stopped and try to creep forward I lose the brakes completely, I need to bring the pedal back up and hit them again to stop.

I have bled brakes twice, both times it seems to help a little but not much.

Ideas?
 

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motor city poster
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sounds to me like an internally leaking master cylender. :D my 96 had that problem, thought there was just air in the lines, but we went to bleed it and had almost no pressure coming out of the bleeders, and the pedal couldnt hold any height what so ever, so replaced the master cylender and fixed the problem.


Not too bad of a job at all, disconnect the brake lines, disconnect the mastercyl from the firewall/booster, bench bleed the new master, bolt back into the car, connect the lines, bleed all the brakes-takes a little longer than usual. but i got it done with the help of one person in about 45-an hour
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK. Its only 50 for a new one so that isnt so bad.

What is the procedure to bleed the MC? The directions I have found are vague at best.

Thanks guys!
 

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motor city poster
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well the new master should either come with plugs, or plugs with little hoses,

to "bench bleed" a master cyl-

Plugs- Mount master cyl in vise with plugs in ports, fill up resivoir with fluid, start pushing on the cylender (where the brake pedal would normally push on it) with a large screw driver or something blunt to push on it with, keep pumping untill you see no more bubbles in the fluid when you release the pressure on the master.

if you get the plugs with lines- mount in vise with plugs with hoses attatched in the ports, take the hoses and put them back into the resivor of the master, fill up with fluid, start doing the same pushing procedure, untill you see no more bubbles coming out of the clear lines.

(if you dont have a vise, you could just mount it in the car, watch while a friend is pumping the brake pedal, works the same.

if you need some more help let me know.
 

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sounds like i have the same problem. My brakes where doing the same thing and noticed one of the lines going to the rear was rusted and fluid was seaping threw so i replaced it but now when i go to bleed the brakes there's no pedal and no fluid comeing out of the bleader. Im sure i have the same problem but was just wanting to ask you guys your opion.
I opologize if im stealing your post
 

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motor city poster
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sometimes at work we get repairs like that or replace calipers and such, and we just get no pedal what so ever when trying to bleed the system, so either your master is shot just like the origional post,

but other times we just need to pressure bleed the system, and the pedal comes right up and is great!

i guess to test ur master, pump up the brake and see if you get any pedal what so ever, if your master is leaking the pedal will fall to the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I replaced the MC. The brakes work great now. Thanks for the suggestion.

I still have a small problem though. The brake light is lit up on the dash? The MC is full of fluid....any ideas?
 

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Is the little float in the reservoir stuck? Give the reservoir a couple of little love taps, and see if you can free it up. Also, did you disconnect the wires to the float sensor when you did the MC, and forget to hook them back up?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Its hooked up. Ill check out the float.

Im hoping that I dont need to replace the reservoir for some reason. Getting really sick of playing with the brakes on this car. :)
 
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