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Boom.
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Discussion Starter #1
Wow...I'm wasted...

Day one is complete and I'd say a good amount of progress was made today. Starting at 8 am today the trans/exhaust was pulled, but everything else was still completely intact.

As of 3:30, my car now has no engine...the old engine and new engine are sitting alongside each other...old engine has entire harness removed, fuel system, ignition system, front cover, valve covers, crank pulley all removed. Only pieces left to pull are the oil pan, pickup tube, and filter adapter. Injectors are cleaned and seated in the new engine. We decided to order a '96-7 engine wiring harness just to make things easier.

A few comments...the power steering pump sucks. Really sucks. Took a freaking long time. Secondly, engine coolant does not taste good and makes your hair feel weird. Third, air tools ROCK.

Estimated time of completion: next weekend, by Saturday hopefully. Would be sooner but we are waiting on some parts and my dad works about 80 hours a week at the dealership...
 

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Congrats! The first time you do this in an MN12 is always the hardest. From now on, it'll feel a lot simpler. Plus breaking all those tough bolts loose the first time really sucks. It's fun, isn't it? :thumbsup:
 

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I pulled the engine and tranny for a 97 not that long ago. I pulled the engine and tranny out at the same time, made it way easier. Took about 4.5 hrs from removing the hood to watching the hoist lift her prom the engine bay. Good work, t-birds and cats are not the easiest vehicles to swap motors in.
 

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Boom.
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Discussion Starter #4
We had the engine out in less than four hours, but with no tranny to deal with.

You're right, MN12s are a real bear...two of the veteran mechanics who were working today stopped by to give some advice and check it out...and they both at separate times commented about how difficult MN12s were to work on.
 

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Slacks 12 months a year, TCCoAAC Member
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I will be doing this maybe next week-end to my 92.I am swapping out the 5.0 for a better 5.0 and a 5-speed.After I watched them take out my Mark VIII engine 4 times I learned alot, plus I have done hundreds of stang swaps so that makes it alot easier.
Good luck,
Chris
 

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Slacks 12 months a year, TCCoAAC Member
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Sorry but I dont think a T-5 will last to long with me. I had a SCed stang and they lasted about 2 shifts at the track and they were in a Mustang, lighter car.I am putting a M5R2 behind it. I have everything I need for the swap already, has taken me all year to gather it up but I have it all down to the last bolt.
Thanks,
Chris
 

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Slacks 12 months a year, TCCoAAC Member
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Palmguy said:
What all you got on the new 302?
Not much.....:D
Thanks,
Chris
 

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You didn't drop the gas tank I hope... that's a lot of extra work when you can drop the IRS with 6 bolts.
 

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Boom.
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Discussion Starter #12
Silver95Bird said:
You didn't drop the gas tank I hope... that's a lot of extra work when you can drop the IRS with 6 bolts.
I didn't drop anything...when I got home from college the tranny, driveshaft, and exhaust were already dropped.
 

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02 Explorer Pioneer
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Palmguy,

I read that you bought a 96-97 harness. There is one possible issue...the 94-95 had the EDIS in a separate box under the hood and the 96-97 had it internal in the EEC and I don't know the wiring diferences in the harness. Worst case is you can do some splicing of just what you need but it is something I would research. Maybe ask Big Scott.
 

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Boom.
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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the heads-up Tim...

I was planning on just splicing the stuff that I needed but my dad wanted to order the harness so he did. If I find out from you or Scott (or anyone else for that matter) that it won't work, I'll cancel that order from Ford.

Tim, what did you run before the SVO? I can't seem to find it anywhere...
 

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02 Explorer Pioneer
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I guess you mean 1/4 mile times. Consistant 15.2 down from 16.2 with the stock motor. Aaron with the same explorer setup and his 3.27 rear is in the 14's
 

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In addition to that, the 96/97 harness has a different shaped main plug. the one on the 94/95 is square, and the one on the 96/97 is rectangular. The only way to make the 96/97 harness work is to replace the PCM, and the entire harness from the PCM into the engine bay.

timb said:
Palmguy,

I read that you bought a 96-97 harness. There is one possible issue...the 94-95 had the EDIS in a separate box under the hood and the 96-97 had it internal in the EEC and I don't know the wiring diferences in the harness. Worst case is you can do some splicing of just what you need but it is something I would research. Maybe ask Big Scott.
 

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BlackBird said:
96-97 T-bird fuel rails
" " EGR valve or use the one that came with the GT engine
" " EGR tube ( GT tube wont work)
" " Vac. line harness
" " accelerator bracket
" " IAC valve or use the GT IAC (splice GT IAC connector to harness to use either valve)
" " PCV valve & tube
80 or 90 mm LMAF and LMAF wiring
GT intake tube.94-95 T-bird IAT sensor won't fit in this intake. Use GT IAT sensor by splicing GT IAT connector on to your harness.( be sure GT engine comes with harness!!)
190lph fuel pump ( not necessary but a good idea.)
96-97 T-bird EGR solonoid, bracket and transducer.
96-97 T-bird timming chain cover, crank seal, and tensioner or just bend the a/c lines to clear the extra idler pulley of the GT engine. Somebody here did'nt have any trouble with the a/c lines making contact, not sure why not but I did
Gt flex plate (8 bolt holes)
Gt torque converter( Fill with Mercon V)
8 flex plate bolts

T-bird headers (GT headers wont work) or extrude hone exhaust manifolds.
Alter motor mounts if using 99-2000 GT engine (Windsor). May not be necessary for 2001-2003 GT engine (Romeo)
Convert your harness to a 96-97 T-bird harness ( A whole lot of cutting and splicing!) or just extend the wires that need extending
Ford no longer makes the 96-97 T-bird plenum( The part that has the 4.6L plaque)You'll have to use the GT plenum. It has one less vac. port than the T-bird plenum so use a Tee for the brake booster vac. hose or better yet drill and tap the boss on the back of the plenum ( next to the EGR valve) use a brass fitting and connect the brake vac. hose to it.
Have a chip made
You can get some of the part numbers from the tech articles.
This is all I can remember.
Good luck!!
"found this thread maybe it can help you out",gL...

Tom
 
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